Rear Differntial Question Experts please step in
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 17,640
Likes: 1
From: Lenoir City TN
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
Rear Differntial Question Experts please step in
We'll for the first time I finally pushed the Vette harder than I ever thought I would, I just got done running the Dragon over here in TN. The link is www.tailofthedragon.com you can see all the curves and such, anyways I got a question in regards to a clunking sound I get, let me try to explain this simply: 
I am running along at taking the curves great and I am in third and letting the engine 'brake' the car, I get through the curve and get back on the gas right at the point of getting on the gas I get this damn clunk from the rear, When I get home I jacked the car up and the universal joints all seem fine, is this a problem in the differntial? If so what would an easy way be to validate this? Also is there "clutch packs" or something for the limited slip that might have failed causing this as well? car has 150K and I will assume it is the original rear end. TIA for any tips.
Bob
I am running along at taking the curves great and I am in third and letting the engine 'brake' the car, I get through the curve and get back on the gas right at the point of getting on the gas I get this damn clunk from the rear, When I get home I jacked the car up and the universal joints all seem fine, is this a problem in the differntial? If so what would an easy way be to validate this? Also is there "clutch packs" or something for the limited slip that might have failed causing this as well? car has 150K and I will assume it is the original rear end. TIA for any tips.Bob
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 40,156
Likes: 45
From: San Pedro CA
clunks from the rear can mean anything... an internal problem, or, a ujoint/bearing problem... or, something REALLY simple!
I would check the c-beam bolts. After all these miles, I would not be surprised if the bolts are not as tight as they should be. I include the batwing mount bolts, too. But not so much the bolts, the bushings! Dried bushings will cause this noise.
Another thing to check is the wheel bearings. They can make noises, especially after a transition.
Question, is this a manual or auto? I am guessing manual.
Also, when was the last time you had the fluid changed? Gordon Killebrew suggests using 2 bottles of diff additive instead of 1.
I would check the c-beam bolts. After all these miles, I would not be surprised if the bolts are not as tight as they should be. I include the batwing mount bolts, too. But not so much the bolts, the bushings! Dried bushings will cause this noise.
Another thing to check is the wheel bearings. They can make noises, especially after a transition.
Question, is this a manual or auto? I am guessing manual.
Also, when was the last time you had the fluid changed? Gordon Killebrew suggests using 2 bottles of diff additive instead of 1.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 17,640
Likes: 1
From: Lenoir City TN
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
Thanks Bogus
It is a mnaual and I replaced the rear fluid with Mobil 1 75W-90 I think as well as two bottles of the GM additive. The rear bearings are also new a few months ago. I will check the beam plates as well as the bushings. I appreciate it.
Bob
It is a mnaual and I replaced the rear fluid with Mobil 1 75W-90 I think as well as two bottles of the GM additive. The rear bearings are also new a few months ago. I will check the beam plates as well as the bushings. I appreciate it.
Bob
