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I have the same problem intermitently.
What should the fuel pressure be with ignition on and the engine has not started yet? And what should the pressure be while the engine is running? I have an adjustable FP regulator so I can adjust it.
Can anyone spell out a little more detail on how to test the FP relay? I have a factory manual so tell me exactly what to look for and what should I do.
Thanks,
Key on about 42lbs
Engine idle about 36 lbs
Read the links i posted, should shed some light on the relay
I've certainly tested relays before-but what you can run into is an intermitent problem (sticky relay) where it will function properly some of the times but not others.He was also saying he had a MAF code-which can be thrown by a FP relay problem-as I said before-check the wiring to the Relay first, and the relay is a $12. part.
I read your link and I have the same manual for my 88 but it doesn't say anything about testing the relay. Maybe I haven't read the right section yet. Then agin rick maybe right about sticky relay.
Everyone. The Fuel Pump relay was the culprit. Even though it was a cheap and easy fix, I was thrown off by the MAF code and the consistent behavior of it starting. I did learn a lot by everyone's response and appreciate everyone's input. I have fixed other issues by researching archived posts here and have learn a lot. I hope to now become more active and maybe help some others.
very happy for you-just curious if you found any wires going to it had insulation shrinkage? And for the above post-the relays can be had at most auto parts stores for around $12. I haven't confirmed this yet-but I suspect several of the relays are interchangeable.
As for testing relays, I've never read any procedures for this, I just learned from a very mechanically and electrical inclined friend-but what I've found is the damn things may test good-but can be intermittently bad (sticking)-so if trouble shooting leads you there it's economically cheaper just to replace them, and quite honestly relays should be replaced every few years anyhow.
The most interesting part of the whole thing was reading about the "through control of the FP relay" as to the possibility of MAF problems.
Everyone have a wonderful Christmas and very good 2006.
As for testing relays, I've never read any procedures for this,
I can't say that I have either. However if you know what a relay is, what it does, and why, the trouble shooting in intuitive.
Originally Posted by rick lambert
quite honestly relays should be replaced every few years anyhow.
Piston rings have an expected life, too, but I haven't heard of anyone recommending that they be changed at any specified time or mileage. Even if it's only ten bucks, the testing is too simple to justify throwing money at a problem, that so easily diagnosed.
very happy for you-just curious if you found any wires going to it had insulation shrinkage? And for the above post-the relays can be had at most auto parts stores for around $12. I haven't confirmed this yet-but I suspect several of the relays are interchangeable.
Didn't find any insulation issues. Yes, the relay was was $12.50 and I purchased it from Advance Auto Parts in Charleston, SC. And yes, there are several relays in the engine that are interchangeable.
You did a good job chasing this problem. The most important trait that is found in a good troubleshooter is that they grab the problem by the throat and won't turn loose. You did that.
I don't want you to think that I'm being picky or critical of what you did, because you dove in and got the job done. I just want to point out that I have had much better success with these relays getting them from the Chevy house. You will pay $5 or $6 more but you will get a relay that is updated to replace the troublesome originals.
I have yet to find one of these relays from the discount chains that will hold up consistently while the GM relays that I've gotten since the mid nineties have never failed.
Again, you done good, I just wanted to pass along this info.
I can't say that I have either. However if you know what a relay is, what it does, and why, the trouble shooting in intuitive.
Piston rings have an expected life, too, but I haven't heard of anyone recommending that they be changed at any specified time or mileage. Even if it's only ten bucks, the testing is too simple to justify throwing money at a problem, that so easily diagnosed.
I am absolutely with CFI on this. I have been wrenching on cars for 42 years and I have NEVER learned to predict what part will fail next.
If you do start getting some intermittent problems in a particular area and suspect the relays, then replacing the ones in the intermittent circuit, may under some circumstances, be a worthwhile, shotgun troubleshooting step, but replacing them periodically as a preventive maintenance step is wasted money and energy.
When you DO replace them, use the updated GM relays from the Chevy house and then you won't have to replace them again.
There are very few items that should be replaced on a "predictive" basis unless you have a well tuned crystal ball.
I must say that I'm very happy that Reboot1 decided to stop "lurking" and jump into the forum with this thread. The group wisdom and info dump in this thread may very well breathe life back into my '86 Coupe - which, unfortunately, has been an immovable object in my garage since early July.
Rick Lambert will probably remember my well-documented troubleshooting posts back in September and October of '05. I am not able to find my old thread to reference to, but the bottom-line is that my '86 has not ran for more than 1 minute at a time (if it started at all) since early July. Bummer - and we had the best summer of all time in Upstate NY last year, too.
Anyway, without going into a lot of detail, I've done a lot of troubleshooting and parts replacement over the past 6+ months - all to no avail. My Vette has exhibited most of the same problems you indicated with your car, so I'm excited to get out to the parts store tomorrow, pick up the FP relay and see what happens.
Having spent the last few months body-working and wrenching on my winter vehicles, I've only recently had an opportunity to focus back on fixing my '86. I came back to the forum today to do some more research after just replacing the fuel pump and cleaning up the sending unit - and, again, no start / no run.
A quick forum search led me to this thread, which, hopefully, will the be answer. One of the few components I have not checked, replaced or cleaned-up is the fuel pump relay. I'm going to **** myself and sing praises to the Vette God if a little $12.50 fuel pump fixes my car and gets me back on the road again.
And the moral of the story is - if you have a problem with your Vette, then don't be shy - put it out to forum for discussion. You may not only help yourself, but you may also help a number of others with similar problems.
I'll let you all know if this puts an end to 6+ months of misery without my baby. Thanks for your post, Reboot1, and thanks to everyone else for sharing your knowledge.
Last edited by red86man; Jan 10, 2006 at 12:10 AM.
My Vette has exhibited most of the same problems you indicated with your car, so I'm excited to get out to the parts store tomorrow, pick up the FP relay and see what happens.
One of the few components I have not checked, replaced or cleaned-up is the fuel pump relay. I'm going to **** myself and sing praises to the Vette God if a little $12.50 fuel pump fixes my car and gets me back on the road again.
And the moral of the story is - if you have a problem with your Vette,
"The moral of the story is"...TROUBLE SHOOT suspected problems and components. Don't just throw money at it. If you had followed that course of action, you likely would have had use of your car last summer, without draining your check book. TEST that sucker before you throw more money at it.
Troubleshooting - yes, about 200+ hours of it and still no start. If I could find the old thread that documented my past troubleshooting efforts - and suggestions from others on this forum - you'd have a good idea of how frustrating this problem has been. I agree with you - always troubleshoot before you start spending money. That's why I do my own work, instead of bringing it to a shop.
Granted, I'm a relative newbie to Vettes and don't have nearly as much knowledge and experience as many here on the forum. I come here to tap the wisdom, implement the suggestions, learn more about the car and, hopefully, get the car running again.
That being said, I've started a new thread at http://forums.corvetteforum.com/newt...newthread&f=48, describing briefly what I've done and the symptoms that I'm seeing now. Perhaps you'll have some suggestions as to what might be causing the problems I'm having. Look forward to hearing from you.
with trouble shooting 100%. BUTsome people need to get their heads outa their you know whats and back into the light!!! I'll say it AGAIN you can test a relay-BUT one simple test of the relay will notconfirm the relay is good-an intermittent problem usally can be traced to a STICKYrelay that may test good many times before it sticks again!!!!! if you really want to test it BYPASSthe relay.And if in doubt replace the damn $12 part-rather than drive yourself nuts-I don't know about anyone else-but I'd rather replace that (those) suckers than spend an unlimited amount of my time trouble shooting something like a damn relay! My time and enjoyment are sure worth a heckava lot more valueable than eliminating a potential problem you cannot accurately test-without multiple tests or bypassing! turning wrenches on cars and boats for over 40 years-and guess what? I never bash anyone-my patience sometimes seems to be growing thin-one of my first post was the main fan was controlled by the ECM-only to be bashed by-well-you know who! seemed like because I was a noobe to this forum I couldn't read a
frigging book-someone who was here longer corrected that person who said I was full of it-and guess what-he obviously learned because he preaches it now! So, how the heck can he continously scold others? through with the rant-forgive me!
Last edited by rick lambert; Jan 10, 2006 at 05:00 PM.
Troubleshooting - yes, about 200+ hours of it and still no start....
I agree with you - always troubleshoot before you start spending money. That's why I do my own work, instead of bringing it to a shop.
And yet, according to the other thread, you DID buy the fuel pump relay. Did it TEST bad? Out of the hundreds of dollars you spent on parts, how many of them were TESTED during that "200+ hours" of trouble shooting? Replacing them doesn't seem to have got your engine to run. It doesn't appear that you are using a very well laid out logical path of trouble shooting and elimination of problems. Whatever form of trouble shooting that you may be using, it appears that no matter what you call it, you ARE just throwing parts (money) at it. I haven't seen mention of it, are you following the FSM?
Get off your friggin horse CFI if you say you can test a relay once and say it's good-you know absolutely NOTHING about relays PERIOD. The man is trying-try helping rather than trying to convince us how smart you are!!! my previous post was meant for UKNOW WHO!
Speaking of being on a horse... Have you followed his thread? Six months, "about 200+ hours" of trouble shooting, hundreds of dollars spent replacing "tested" (?) parts., and he's still throwing money at it. After all this effort, it still doesn't run. It doesn't appear this is an intermittent problem, that only prevents start up, sporadically. Testing, trouble shooting, bypassing the relay are all worthwhile endeavors at this point. $10.00 for a relay, $80.00 for a fuel pump, $??.00 for distributor rebuild parts, spark plug wires, and on ad on. At what point do you change tactics and start on an organized, logical, path of trouble shooting, and testing, before blind replacing? The previous "about 200+ hours" of trouble shooting hasn't proved fruitful...So far. At least MY horse is aimed at encouraging him to change his procedures for HIS benefit, and not to attack an adviser I don't agree with. Chill Mr. Lambert.