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Just discovered what is now a small coolent leak last night. Guess these never get better although the last two days have been very cold.
Can see the drops on the radiator side tank just below the radiator air bleed hose on the passenger side.
First, where is a good place to buy a repacement radiator?
Next, is it worth trying to go with a "be cool" radiator? Think these need a mod done to the upper and lower supports.
Find exactly where the leak is. From your description your leak may be nothing more than a hose connection. Side tank gaskets and broken or cracked side tanks can be replaced. You very well may not need a new radiator. I would remove it from the car and take it to a radiator shop to be flow and leak tested. Then IF you need a replacement, make sure you get one with an aluminum core, like the original. NAPA sells Modine, who makes an excellent OE duplicate. The after market, all aluminum (including the side tanks) two row core, radiator, such as the "be cool" you asked about have at least double the cooling capacity of the stock rad... At twice the price. A relatively moderate engine with only moderate racing should do well with the stock radiator in a well maintained cooling system. If you NEED the extra cooling capacity of a two row core radiator, contact Tom DeWitt, forum sponsor for the best, all aluminum 2 row C4 radiator available.
Although it has had plastic tanks replaced, twice, the radiator in my 1984, with 160,000+ miles on it, still has the factory radiator core, and it still does a great job.
Although it has had plastic tanks replaced, twice, the radiator in my 1984, with 160,000+ miles on it, still has the factory radiator core, and it still does a great job.
RACE ON!!!
Perhaps an unintentional testomony to the inferior reliability of plastic/aluminum radiators compared to all aluminum.......
I have run multiple vehicles to greater than 160K and NEVER replaced or repaired an all metal radiator....to have two radiator rebuilds in less than 160k is not a very good track record in my opinion...
I think I would most likely opt for an all aluminum such as Dewitts to achieve higher reliability than GM's multimaterial design......although repairing the existing radiator is still a viable option....choices
Plastic tank radiators are living on borrowed time after 10 years. It's plastic and it gets brittle. If you can find a shop that replaces a lot of tanks it might be worth it. Some shops won't touch them because it's easier for them to replace it and not worry about leaking gaskets. An OEM radiator can be had for under $200 new.
I had my other GM cars radiators repaired.They replaced the tanks for 65 bucks.We have a very good rad shop in town so that helped alot with convenience and money saving.They also cleaned the rad fins and etc while they had it.Came back looking new.
Has worked well for several years now.
From: Austin, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Houston, Dallas, Hong Kong, Elgin, etc.. Texas
There are a few solutions...
1. Replacement with OEM type. Check to www.radiators.com. I bought one from the a few years ago and it was OEM quality and very good price. Delivery was the next day. However, I returned it because it was for an automatic with a transmission cooler but I had a manual transmission.
2. Aftermarket. More expensive and can have a fit challenge.
3. Repair. The tanks should be available from Delco. I took my radiator to a local shop and gave them the Delco part number and they did a perfect replacement cheaper than a new one.
I was just talkin to someone about replacing my radiators in my jeep, my 76vette numerous times , my 71 pickup 2 times. But my 86 vette? 320,000 miles and nothing... Cleaned its exterior once...and nothing.. Whats with these aluminum radiators? or should i say kryptonite radiators...wierd but good...
Just discovered what is now a small coolent leak last night. Guess these never get better although the last two days have been very cold.
Can see the drops on the radiator side tank just below the radiator air bleed hose on the passenger side.
First, where is a good place to buy a repacement radiator?
Next, is it worth trying to go with a "be cool" radiator? Think these need a mod done to the upper and lower supports.
I have a 95 LT1 manual trans machine.
Can you get your hands on a radiator pressure tester?
Perhaps an unintentional testomony to the inferior reliability of plastic/aluminum radiators compared to all aluminum.......
I have run multiple vehicles to greater than 160K and NEVER replaced or repaired an all metal radiator....to have two radiator rebuilds in less than 160k is not a very good track record in my opinion...
I think I would most likely opt for an all aluminum such as Dewitts to achieve higher reliability than GM's multimaterial design......although repairing the existing radiator is still a viable option....choices
That's exactly what I did. Dewitts is the way to go. Why bother with plastic end-tanks that will fail.
Don't anyone mistake my endorsement of the OE radiator, as a love for plastic tanks. I hate them, but the OE radiator seems to be the best, all around compromise. As pointed out above, the aluminum seems to have the best life, especially if maintained. No doubt that an all aluminum radiator is preferable, but I know of no reasonably priced alternative to the OE rad. If one has a nasty engine that has a need for a significantly larger cooling capacity, or just money that they haven't spent yet, a two row, all aluminum radiator IS a superior product. The DeWitt, all aluminum radiator would be the best of the best.
If you can wait a few weeks, I'll be selling my Fluidyne radiator for $325 (includes shipping in the lower 48). I'm installing a larger unit since I use the car extensively on road courses and I now have a 25 row oil cooler in front of the stack that adds lots of hot air to the flow.
The Fluidyne unit is completely drop in, no mods to the shroud or fan frame are required. The core is 1/2" wider than stock so there is added cooling capacity.
Here is a pic of the radiator installed on my car (taken during my oil cooler install):
Here's the part number: FHP11-96COR
Some other info:
100% Brazed Aluminum Core (No Epoxy Joints)
High Efficiency Air Fins
Polished Aluminum Tanks
Brackets, Hoses and Fittings All Meet OE Fit-Up