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I have an 89 Vert. with a paxton driver side blower, and it keeps my L98 plenum nice and warm (175 deg. F)
I found and bought a "proCharger" / "ATI" Vett intercooler on E-Bay.
Wish I didn't because it looks small. Its a 6" X 13" X 3" thick.
It came off of a stock 350 Vett. making 420RW with a 9 lbs.
So the guy claimed. Problem is I don't wan't to put in the time/ cost for a modification with insufficient result. I wolud rather continue using my water injection.
I would like to know if anybody can tell me what this ATI cooler will support,
And if You know who makes a bigger unit for a C4.
I would like to stay in fron of the rad. and no hood mods.
I am running a new 383, AFRs, and expect 500+RW when I go to the tune/ dyno. Like a cooler to support it.
The ATI intercooler will become restrictive at just over 500hp. This info I got strait from the ATI tech people. Oh and thats 500 crank hp. If you are over that you'll want a custom intercooler. Several of us have gone this route.
Depending on what your compression ratio is you may not need the intercooler. But if you plan on increasing HP and/or boost I'd get one. The water injection will only get you so far.
I found and bought a "proCharger" / "ATI" Vett intercooler on E-Bay.
Wish I didn't because it looks small. Its a 6" X 13" X 3" thick.
It came off of a stock 350 Vett. making 420RW with a 9 lbs.
So the guy claimed.
Chad
BLWN BUX
The stock ATI IC core for the early C4s (85-e'89) is ~11"H x 14"W x 3"T. I am not sure as to what you have, as it is too small to be the single IC and two large to be one of the dual ICs from the l'89-91.
The single IC covered me to ~520RWHP with a 350cid motor, then I moved to a larger Spearco that I ordered for ~$1300, that went to 570RWHP before I changed from the 350 motor combo.
You can get "basic" ICs on the net for under $500.
Aaron
I have seen over 550 RWHP with the ATI LT1 intercooler. That was with 12#'s of boost on a 355. So just depends what your goal is and how much money you have to spend.
I have a custom made air to air IC that was made for a Vortec blown LTx engines. This means that the blower sat on the right side of the engine compartment. I have all the ducts from the blower to the IC and from the IC to the TB. All of it is highly polished. The IC is a spearco core that is 3" thick, I can't remember the other demensions of it. But it sat on top of the fiberglass shroud, and the ducting ran over the top of the shroud to the blower and the TB. If you are interesed I can send you pictures later today or tonight.
I am at 8.5:1 comp and running 7 PSI. The Paxton blower is good and bad. I has almost no lag. But it is ball drive and gets hot. My MAT sensor reads 175 deg at cruse. and about 165 or so at 7 lbs with the water/ alki injection. My aplication (as is) will live all day as long as I don't add timing.
We Need power and the colder, the better.
I am looking for the bigest IC that can be installed. (Reasonably speaking) I don't want to modify the hood/body.
An Air water cooler would be great. I can't see where you guys are installing these things. I imagin a hudge hole in my hood with the thing sticking half way out
"JoBy" I would realy like to see your finnished install. Your unit looks quite subtancial. If you could send me a pic to the email below I would be greatfull.
Some people mension cost, I coud see spending $500-$1500 on a setup
I spent $400 on the "proCharger" one that I will not use.
I'd take a look at the Garrett intercooler cores that are available over the Spearco stuff. After taking a look at each of their cores and seeing both's performance, the Garrett's outclass the Spearco's
I am at 8.5:1 comp and running 7 PSI. The Paxton blower is good and bad. I has almost no lag. But it is ball drive and gets hot. My MAT sensor reads 175 deg at cruse. and about 165 or so at 7 lbs with the water/ alki injection. My aplication (as is) will live all day as long as I don't add timing.
Chad
BLWN BUX tombyll.plastics@verizon.net
Chad,
Do you really think that 165-175°F is bad? I know that 130°F is better, but do you think the $1500 will be worth the minimal increase in RWHP? What is the max timing you are running currently? Have you bumped it up till you are right on the verge of detonation?
It is a lot of work to add these large ICs to the C4s.
Maybe I would not benifit from an IC much Aaron.
You guys certanly have more experience with these applications.
I do apreciate all the experiences that are shared with me.
I have fine tuning done on the dyno, we have been runing the 350 (10: 1) set-up at 28 deg. total., and A/F is stable at about 12:1 under boost.
Now I have the 383 at 8.5:1 Maybe we can add timing.
Can anyone tell me where they start to rattle the motor?
My tuner may be conservitive in his approch.
I am breaking in the new motor befor we go to tune.
I think that an Intercooler would do a world of good on your setup, you can use the meth/alky injection in conjunction, but getting those IAT's down will help alot with power and reliability. at only 7psi, 175* temps is a bit on the high side. also, I might try bringing that AF ratio down a little bit more when you start running more boost.. 12.0 isn't terrible, but mid 11's seems to be the target number for safety and reliability. much more then that and you get to the point of washing the walls down with fuel.. thats what makes tuning such a finesse art.. as for timing get the fuel a little fatter and get the IAT's down some more then just tweak the tune in each section of the RPM band until you get minimal knock and back it down a degree or two for safety. once this is done with you boost setting and fuel choice ie 91, 93, 100 octane or whatever you run, you should be good to go. bringing your IAT's down will enable you to run more boost safely, make more power, and have better peace of mind!
Chad,
I really would think that you can do everything that you are wanting to do with EtOH or MeOH injection vs the much higher added expense of an IC. Do not get me wrong, I am a big proponent of ICs, but with the low boost and relatively mild combo, I would save the bucks from doing an IC.
As for the question on where these motors begin to rattle, that is a very subjective question based on the components used in the build (specifically cam, heads, pistons, etc.). With that being said, 7 psi boost on your motor could be 14 psi on a bone stock motor, or 2 psi on a heavily modified motor. It is really an open ended question.
BTW, On my street car, I see no knock at 28° adv under full boost during the winter (185°F IATs), but run 23° adv during the summer (230°F IATs) in S TX.