C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

can you adjust the throttle cable

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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 02:16 PM
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Default can you adjust the throttle cable

i had a friend floor the gas pedal while i checked the throttle body butterflys at WOT and noticed that they are only opening 80%... the car is a '92 i have a BBK 58mm...i checked the floor mat first. not the problem. i dont really have a whole lot of slack in the line its seems the spring on the 58mm is just bigger and if i tighten the cable it will just pull the throttle open more and idle higher...so then would i have to just play with the TPS to make adjustment for the slightly opened butterflys?...or do i lengthen the cable and then tacweld it somewhere higher on the arm so that it pulls more..not that i would but it seems to be the only solution (not really!)
the real question is if there a bolt to adjust it. im sorry if this got a little confusing any input would be greatly apreciated
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 02:25 PM
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No - make sure it's routed correctly. Having the throttle off of the idle stop is going to create more problems than it solves as the ECM will think it's accelerating and do nothing to control idle. I think the aftermarket makes an adjustable cable that you may be able to adapt, but it's probably better to check with the Manufacturer and make sure they sold you the right throttle body. If they say it works, I'd make it clear that it doesn't and get your money back.
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 09:18 PM
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Actually, I think you can. I was dead set thinking no until some more ingenious members posted ways of how to do so. I don't recall the adjustment, if you want to call it that, being for an L98 or LT1 car, but it shouldn't matter. If my PUI memory serves me correctly, I believe the pedal bracket was shimmed up with some washers to take the slack out of the cable. A search should yield some results as this was just addressed fairly recently, and will hopefully help you fix the problem.
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 09:59 PM
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News to me - but that doesn't mean they don't exist. The key for the L98 is usually the bend pass the Booster and you need to zip tie it to the cruise cable. Even if the pedal is shimmed, wouldn't removing them defeat the purpose? You get a longer cable but less pedal travel - same problem. Hate to think you've got to ghetto your setup to make the aftermarket part work; onus should be on the manufacturer (and lot of these guys say the product fits a certain engine, but say nothing about the car it's going into). On the other hand, if you're building a rod, you don't have much choice, so there are adjustable setups out there.
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 10:00 PM
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hey good call ill go check that tomorrow morining and make a phone call to BBK thanks for the input

Last edited by streettrim; Dec 21, 2005 at 10:04 PM.
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 11:14 PM
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If yours is a ASR car ther is a button between the ASR and pedal that releases the cable.Same as the button on L98 TV cables .To set it push the pedal to the floor.
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 12:02 PM
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The problem is with the 58 mm TB. The TB requires more cable travel than stock. The only way to fix it properly is to move the point of the cable attachment, closer to the "center of the circle" (throttle shaft). That way, a given tangential movement (amount of throttle cable pull) will rotate the throttle shaft through more degrees of rotation. It's an incompatible linkage problem that has to be cured.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
The problem is with the 58 mm TB. The TB requires more cable travel than stock. The only way to fix it properly is to move the point of the cable attachment, closer to the "center of the circle" (throttle shaft). That way, a given tangential movement (amount of throttle cable pull) will rotate the throttle shaft through more degrees of rotation. It's an incompatible linkage problem that has to be cured.

RACE ON!!!
So do you make a new hole? or just weld it closer to the shaft?
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 02:47 PM
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I had to do that on my intake swap. What I did wa to drill two new holes in the linkage braket to bring it closer to the TB, I mock set-it up first to see were I was going making sure I was somewhere in the middle of the vac pull for cruise and making sure I had enough cable to adjust TV. Also make sure the braket will fit in it's new forward location. Measure about three times drill once.
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by drochau
So do you make a new hole? or just weld it closer to the shaft?
I have no idea what you are considering welding. My throttle bodies are totally different. I have never handled at 58 mm BBK TB. However, I DO know from previous posts that the problem is one of linkage ratio. The attachment point for the inner (movable) member of the throttle cable must be moved on the TB throttle arm, to a point closer to the throttle shaft. As is, the cable travel doesn't allow for sufficient throttle shaft rotation. Unfortunately, I don't know the best way to relocate that attachment point. Intuition tells me to drill a new hole. But never having seen it, that may not be practical, or the best way.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 04:34 PM
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Seems like an adjustable cable would be better. Lokar caters to the rod guys. Might try them at www.locar.com
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 04:42 PM
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I like the idea of moving the gas pedal out.. that would also make heel-toe downshifting more feasible.
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by SunCr
Seems like an adjustable cable would be better. Lokar caters to the rod guys. Might try them at www.locar.com
It isn't an adjustment problem. An adjustable cable or moving the stationary point of the outer cable doesn't address the REAL problem. The stock throttle cable has a given, sufficient, amount of pull. The distance from the pivot point (throttle shaft) to the point of the pull, (hole in the throttle arm) is different on the 58 mm, BBk, TB from stock. Therefore it takes a greater pull distance to rotate the throttle shaft, the ~90° it has to turn to go from idle to WOT. The above methods may "crutch it" enough to get by, but it doesn't fix the deficiency. As the attachment point of the inner, movable, cable is moved closer to the throttle shaft (down, along the throttle arm, shortening the radius), the same linear pull will generate more degrees of rotation, and cause the throttle shaft to move through it's full range of motion. It is a RATIO problem.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 07:46 PM
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This is common with the BBK throttle-bodies. Floor it and have your buddie see where that do-hicky on the left side of the TB is hanging up. Then cut a little v-notch in that place so it can open farther. I'm sounding like a real doofuss, but it works.
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 05:30 PM
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thanks everyone for posting back i dont know what im gonna do...im either going to try and repositon the cable or see what happens when i play around with the throttle positioning sensor and see if i can make adjustments like that after screwing the screw/stopper plate further out or i might just throw the stock one back on!
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by streettrim
thanks everyone for posting back i dont know what im gonna do...im either going to try and repositon the cable or see what happens when i play around with the throttle positioning sensor and see if i can make adjustments like that after screwing the screw/stopper plate further out or i might just throw the stock one back on!
unless you have elongated the holes on the TPS - on the '92's it is NON ADJUSTABLE
i would call BBK and see what they recommend - i find it strange that they wouldn't have thought of this when producing the deisgn for the TB - they make one SPECIFICALLY for the each generation/motor combo - yours should be the following model
1542 - Twin 58mm 1992-93 LT-1
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 06:33 PM
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Are you saying that the TPS is causing the throttle cable to run out of travel before the throttle plates get to WOT? I don't THINK so.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 09:00 PM
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Here's a crude way to adjust the cable if you have excess slack or play. It may also cure your problem, but it does sound like you have a lever ratio issue.

Just pull the cable out of where it snaps into the square hole on the bracket near the throttle body. Put a large washer over the end of the cable so it can't seat back into the square hole and then slip it back through and re-attach to the trottle body.

Be carefull that the cable isn't too tight at wot or you may wind up snapping it.

This will take out some of the play and also raise the pedal inside the car making it easier to heal and toe, by reducing the step-over height between the brake and accelerator pedals.
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