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From: Tucson, AZ. L98-85 AUTO COUPE: 120k MILES: daily driver. SOUND OFF IF YOU'VE BEEN THERE. Ex-Jumpin' Junky-82nd Airborne-2/505 PIR: 1st ID-1/16th Inf: Recon Marine Retread. GOD BLESS GRUNTS.
Originally Posted by 96GS#007
You don't use any gasket sealer on the gasket, but per the Factory Service Manual (FSM) (not a cheap Haynes) it should be installed with 1 large dab of RTV placed at each transition...from the block to the timing chain cover and from the block to the rear main.
A FSM is money well spent.
i've got a buzz on right now and am checking for relevant posts--don't worry the buzz is medically approved--but from everything i've seen on paper and video, you should put a healthy dab of rtv on every corner of a thing to thing junction despite the fact that there is an alleged tight fitting gasket that should take care of the union, especially on intakes. i've also globbed that one should put a line of rtv around intake gasket water junctions. the only thing i haven't figured out is whether it should be on the manifold, intake side or both.\\
please flame me right now. i've got enough meds to handle it.
Here's a longshot. Is it coming from the passenger side of the motor? If it is, is there a bolt in the hole that you use to hold the mechanical fuel pump rod up while you are installing the fuel pump?
Sorry I spoke up. Just saw that he has an LT1. Don't know what I am talking about when it comes to them.
(This was the problem on my motor swap though. The car my motor came out of had the air pump bolted there and I forgot to place a bolt in the hole when I put it together and now I have on hell of a oily mess.)
i've got a buzz on right now and am checking for relevant posts--don't worry the buzz is medically approved--but from everything i've seen on paper and video, you should put a healthy dab of rtv on every corner of a thing to thing junction despite the fact that there is an alleged tight fitting gasket that should take care of the union, especially on intakes.
I agree and stated as such previously. In fact, this is how the factory does it and how they recommend the repair be performed. Of the thousands of engines that roll out of the factory every year, few leak until they get old. That implies this approach must work pretty well.
Originally Posted by parafrog
i've also globbed that one should put a line of rtv around intake gasket water junctions. the only thing i haven't figured out is whether it should be on the manifold, intake side or both.\\.
I've never done that and have never had an issue with leaks. The key is making sure the surfaces are very clean and flat. None the less, many use RTV. The factory doesn't. FWIW, on the LT1/4 there are no coolant passages between the cylinder heads and the intake manifold, so this is a non-issue.
The stock oil pan gasket for the lt1 is cork on each side and rubber in the front and back.
I've had plenty of L98/LT1/LT4 engines apart (1990 thru 1996) and have yet to see a gasket like this come from the factory on a Corvette engine. Perhaps on the Camaro or the Impala SS, but not the Vette.
I've had plenty of L98/LT1/LT4 engines apart (1990 thru 1996) and have yet to see a gasket like this come from the factory on a Corvette engine. Perhaps on the Camaro or the Impala SS, but not the Vette.
I got that gasket set with my LT4 gasket kit from Chevy.I didn't use it but their it was.I fit it to see if it would work and it was correct but I prefer the one piece with the right stuff all over the place.
Oh yes it has exaust metal gaskets in it also
Of corse I didn't use those eather.
Last edited by REDC4CORVETTE; Jan 27, 2006 at 05:21 AM.
I added sealant to the corners and the front where the timing cover is, even though Fel-pro says to install it dry. I made real sure that the groove in the bottom of the timing cover was free of old gasket, and that the front of the gasket did not move on me as I placed the pan back on. It has not leaked a drop in 2 years.
All "one piece seal" (refering to the crank seal ) engines have the one single pan gasket regardless of what chassis the engine was fitted to.
L98 , LTX Vortec all the same and interchangible
Just an update on this oil leak issue. I replaced the timming cover gasket and seals and the oil pan gasket and still have a leak up front. I didn't use any sealant in the corners. I see oil where the two front coners are and down around the lower timming cover to oil pan. It's got to be the front oil pan gasket that is still leaking.
Any suggestions? Should I replace the oil pan and use the right stuff in the corners?
While I had the oil pan off I looked at it and it wasn't perfectly flat. Also if I replace the oil pan what would be a good street strip pan to get or should I go with the stock one so I can keep the oil sensor that is located in the pan?
Thanks, Ray
Just an update on this oil leak issue. I replaced the timming cover gasket and seals and the oil pan gasket and still have a leak up front. I didn't use any sealant in the corners. I see oil where the two front coners are and down around the lower timming cover to oil pan. It's got to be the front oil pan gasket that is still leaking.
Any suggestions? Should I replace the oil pan and use the right stuff in the corners?
While I had the oil pan off I looked at it and it wasn't perfectly flat. Also if I replace the oil pan what would be a good street strip pan to get or should I go with the stock one so I can keep the oil sensor that is located in the pan?
Thanks, Ray
Like was mentioned before, you must put RTV in the corners or it'll leak. Here's a pic, where the RTV is squeezing out is circled in blue...
Can't help you with a street/strip pan, I do road courses. having said that, many of the aftermarket pans have (or can be modified to accept) the factory oil level sensor.
One peice OEM gasket, sealer in the corners and around timing cover and from corner across the rear. I used ultra black I didn't think the right stuff was needed there, did it myself and haven't had any problems yet.
The pic. above is very good, and is similar to mine where I can see that the sealer has come from around the cover to the block rails. Done that way should have little chance of a leak. Regardless of what a agasket co. would say I would still would have put sealer there.
I just did my oil pan last month. I used the Fel Pro gasket and went with the Black RTV at the transition point. No leaks so far. I agree with the other posts. Best of luck.
Thanks for all your replies. Oil leak is fixed( I think )I put the right stuff on both sides of the gasket all the way around since I didn't know exactly where it was coming from. So far so good.