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Last month I started the Cloye double roller chain conversion on my 93. The 95 opti and cover are in and everything is in. Today I finally got more time around and try to disassembling the water pump. Man how did you guy get the impeller out??? I hammer the back shaft and it would not move. It is have to be press out ?
Remove the inspection plate, heat the impeller with a propane torch and drive the shaft out of the impeller with a punch and hammer. The rest of the disassembly will be obvious.
Don't try to press the impeller out using the exposed shaft at the rear of the pump. It's the wrong direction and will ruin the housing. Luckily, I had a spare
To seal the waterpump driveshaft hole on the timing cover I used a Mercury Marine "welsh plug" of about 1-1/4" diameter and some Mercury Marine "Perfect Seal". The plug is an aluminum dome (like a "moon" hubcap) that is a bit smaller than the hole you'd like to seal. Place some sealant around the edges, place it in the hole and try to pound it flat with a large punch. It only takes a few sharp blows (you really only want to deform it to fit) and the job is done.
Your electric WP manufacturer should've supplied you with the proper plug to seal the hole in the pump due to removal of the driveshaft.
Remove the inspection plate, heat the impeller with a propane torch and drive the shaft out of the impeller with a punch and hammer. The rest of the disassembly will be obvious.
Don't try to press the impeller out using the exposed shaft at the rear of the pump. It's the wrong direction and will ruin the housing. Luckily, I had a spare
To seal the waterpump driveshaft hole on the timing cover I used a Mercury Marine "welsh plug" of about 1-1/4" diameter and some Mercury Marine "Perfect Seal". The plug is an aluminum dome (like a "moon" hubcap) that is a bit smaller than the hole you'd like to seal. Place some sealant around the edges, place it in the hole and try to pound it flat with a large punch. It only takes a few sharp blows (you really only want to deform it to fit) and the job is done.
Your electric WP manufacturer should've supplied you with the proper plug to seal the hole in the pump due to removal of the driveshaft.
Dan
what you are saying is to heat it up with propane and then use chisel to punch on the center of the impeller? to push it out.
So if I hammer on the expose shalf is the wrong direction??
Yes that is the wrong direction. The bearing actually presses out the back of the pump. You can do it with a great big hammer but a press is much easier.
Rick
I am planning on swing by this week around 12.00-2:00PM to drop off your Kentmore tool. Also what is going on with pipes coating situation? is that guy want to make some $ or what? Have you call him about it? I really want to put everything back on soon.
Remove the inspection plate, use a propane torch and heat the impeller for about 20-30 seconds, knock the shaft out with a small hammer and punch.
The shaft will release with ease.
I tried to press the shaft out from behind (using the exposed shaft) and it destroyed the housing. The bearing assembly just didn't seem to be meant to be disassembled that way.
Remove the inspection plate, use a propane torch and heat the impeller for about 20-30 seconds, knock the shaft out with a small hammer and punch.
The shaft will release with ease.
I tried to press the shaft out from behind (using the exposed shaft) and it destroyed the housing. The bearing assembly just didn't seem to be meant to be disassembled that way.
Dan
Thanks for the great advice. I got it out just like you say how it done. Take less than a few minutes, heat it up and a few hammer strike and a chisel.