I'm going to replace my worn out p/s pump & hoses this week. I have done this on other vehicles but not on a C4 Vette. Any helpful hints. No lift but I can jack it pretty high & drop off the front wheels if it helps. Access panels? Anything?

TIA

 

I recently changed the power steering pump and hoses on my 89. I always place the cars four (4) wheels on ramps when I am going to be working on it for a while. This keeps me from working bent over so far. I am 6"3 and it just feels better for me. The job is time consuming and can be messy, however it is not difficult.
I read somewhere that when you put fluid in the new pump, spin the pump in the reverse direction to prime it. (I can not find where I read it)! So I spun it for a while. I didn't notice anything happening as I spun it. I then put the serp. belt on and started the car. I then turned the wheels from side to side, and no noise. Had power steering immed.
I have to walk away from a job like this every now and then for my sanity!

Good wrenching!

 

I started on mine, but stopped when faced with trying to disconnect the hoses.
The screw heads for the clamps are positioned so that it's impossible to put a wrench or screwdriver on them.

I lost patience and put all the bolts I had removed back. I'll deal with it again when it isn't too hot or cold outside.

 

Do you have the correct puller for the pulley ?? I had no grief as far as i can remember

 

I just did mine. Mine was leaking while tracking it (as most LT1/LT4 cars will do over time) and I had heard about Turn-One who rebuilds them, and slows them down a bit at high revs. I believe it was $125 and they did a great job.

I ordered the high pressure hose from Randy at DRM. It's braided -6 hose with the aeroquip fittings. Very stout piece and was $99. If I'm not mistaken the oem hose will run you $70 or so.

PS Pump Removal
-------------------

- Use a Mity-Vac, turkey baster, etc to suck the fluid out of the reservoir
- Remove the serpentine belt. This is tricky if you have a Camber Brace (I had to remove mine)
- Remove the alternator (gives you a lot of extra room to work with )
- Remove the high pressure line from the pump. I believe it's an 16mm fitting
- Remove the four 10mm bolts that secure the ps pump to the accessory bracket
- Remove the clamp that secures the low-pressure line to the pump (this is really the only part of the job that can be a PIA if the factory spring-style clamp is being used).
- Take the pump to a local machine shop to have them remove the pulley (I just mailed mine to Turn-One with it on)
- Send pump to Turn One for a rebuild

Note: It made it easier to twist around to get the pump fitting off with the rack fitting taken off first (18mm)

After you have everything hooked back up, you may want to drain all the old fluid. I removed the hose end coming from the reservoir to the PS cooler on the PS cooler side. If you keep the hose above the reservoir no fluid will spill out of it. But now you don't have a hose connected from the PS cooler to the reservoir and that is where you are going to need to put a catch pan.

Start putting your new fluid in the reservoir and then rotate the steering wheel "lock-to-lock" 10 or so times. Obviously the car will need to be on jackstands. Fluid will start to come out of the PS cooler connection. Make sure the coil from the opti is disconnected and have someone turn the key over and hold it (this will prime the pump), and fluid will come out like crazy. Keep doing this until you see new fluid coming out. I used Red Line so it was easy to see.

Once that is done you need to reconnect the hose from the reservior to the PS cooler. This is going to be a bit messy but it's not that difficult.

Mike

 

- Disconnect battery
- Use a MityVac or equivalent to remove the ps fluid from the ps reservoir
- Remove the bellows/MAF assembly between the throttle body and the air filter box
- Remove the serpentine belt
- Remove the alternator (you’ll be surprised at how much room this provides)
- Remove the driver’s side inner fender panel
- Remove the single idler pulley (not the tensioner) that’s bolted to the accessory bracket
- Loosen the top ps line at the pump (a crows foot is helpful by not mandatory)
- Remove the small bolt that secures the ps line clamp to the bottom of the accessory bracket (follow the line from the top of the pump to the rack and you’ll find the bracket)
- Remove the 4 bolts that secure the ps pump to the accessory bracket
- Remove the top (high pressure) ps line from the pump
- Remove the lower (low pressure) ps line from the pump
- Reassembly is the reverse of the above + bleeding the system

I sent you a PM regarding the pump as well.

 

Like Mojo said, this was not easy. It takes a lot of patience.

Mike

Edit: As you can tell, my notes came from Jim as well, and worked like a charm.

 

Go with the real GM pump. I've had had/and heard bad info on the aftermarket replacements.

 

I agree if you are replacing... however, if you are tracking your car at all, then you will want to send your stock unit to turn-one and have it rebuilt.

Mike

 

Before putting everything back together, remove and clean the reservoir then put it back in place. Put everything back together EXCEPT for the return hose to the reservoir. This is the top hose on the reservoir.

Connect a piece of hose to the removed return hose and plug the opened hole on the reservoir. Run the piece of hose that you connected into a jug or drain pan and then be ready with a few quarts of fresh p/s fluid. Fill the reservoir and have a helper start the car and turn the steering wheel back and forth lock to lock while you pour the two quarts of p/s fluid through the reservoir. Be ready because it will use them up quickly. Once fluid no longer goes into your jug or drain pan IMMEDIATELY have your assistant turn off the engine.

In this way your pump is seeing ONLY fresh fluid while the rest of the system is being flushed out with the fresh fluid. After the flushing, connect the return line to the reservoir and fill the system. Start the engine and turn the wheel lock to lock until the system is no longer noisy and is full of fresh fluid.

Good luck,

 

Thanks for all the tip guys

 

Update.

Got it out. The hoses the parts guy ordered are messed up. The hp hose has a major nick/gouge at the lip where the o ring goes where it seals. Box was crushed. No way I'm putting that on. The other lp hose ended up being one of the ones that attach to the cooler & I'm not doing those at this time so screwed there too.

I was unable to get a new Chevy pump - called 3 dealers - nobody has. Got AC Delco rebuilt. I HOPE it's good - as this is not a quicky job. It looks like it was painted (black) with a rag

Nice.

Question on pressing the pully back on, can I "lube" it with anything to ease it on, sucker is a TIGHT fit.

Will button it up tomorrow. Hope this cures the loss of p/s at severe duty/hot situation (autox)\

If it's in the rack I think I'll pay a pro to do that.

Do the control valves in the rack ever go bad?

I would recommend everyone change that fluid at least every couple of years.

TIA

 

luvmy92,
what is your experience with the T1 pump? I have one, and it's going on monday with the DRM hose. Is the pump streetable?

I'm actually having the vettedoctors install it, I just don't feel like dealing with the cold weather

 

Done.

I can't tell if it fixed the problem until I race, but everything is back together, no leaks, got power steering, etc.

FYI here's a recap of how I did it.

Get all your parts and a p/s pully remover/installer ahead of time. Don't forget fluid.

I jacked the front up as far as I could to make it easier on the back. Also pulled the wheels so I could straddle the a arms & step in real close to the job.

Remove serp belt. I used a crows foot wrench that attaches to 3/8 drive breaker bar.

Remove alt. The big wire on the back is hot to the bat. so if you are not used to working around live stuff, disconnect pos. on bat first. I was just careful with the wire. When I put it back I did spark it of course - no damage done. Just a little weld mark on the alt.

Use special tool to remove pully on p/s pump - it'll be TIGHT. Remove (5 I think) 10mm bolts holding ps pump on.

Remove top high press hose fitting. It'll leak some p/s fluid so be ready with rags. I had to loosen a guide clamp on this hose to get some slack to lift it out of the pump fitting. There is an oring, replace with new. May come with the pump.

Remove idler pully.

Remove low press (big) hose. You'll need long needle nose to get the clamp off (unless your's is a screw type). There will be more leaking. Put finger over fat tube/pipe coming off pump.

Clean up drips.

Reverse above to install.

Don't pinch the plug wires when you tighten down the pump, move em around a bit if necessary.

Make sure the bottom hose clamp is clear of the belt & pullies, I twisted the sharp ends around towards the back after I had it in place.

My ac delco rebuilt was primed at the factory with fluid. If not I would fill with fluid as best you can b4 putting on.

I put a VERY LIGHT coat of grease on the shaft and pully to make it go on easier. I figure that sucker is not going anywhere once it's pressed on all the way.

I took off the serp belt & washed with soap & water as you don't want any fluid on it for obvious reasons.

Top off p/s resevoir pretty near top.

I put the wheels back on (safety) & started car. Small quick squeal as pump primed & then I had power steering immediately. I did not go lock to lock because when up on jacks the steering geometry is pretty radical and I didn't want to mess up the A arms/ball joints whatever.

Just 20 or 30 quick small left/right's to get the bubbles out.

Drop the car, torque lug nuts (I forgot that part once ). Go for a drive. Return, ck for leaks, set fluid level correct at hot.

Probably took 3 hrs to remove, next day 2 hrs to install. Not a hard job but a little more difficult than say brake pads/rotors. Plus you need the special tool.

Hope this helps somebody. Add your own tips. Anyone know what the flat rate time/price is on this job? I'd just be curious.

 

Yes, it's streetable.