C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Auxiliary fan kit

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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 10:21 PM
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Default Auxiliary fan kit

Does anyone have any experience with the auxiliary fan kit as seem at Mid-America? ( http://www.madvet.com/shop?frame=1.138.940 )
I'm running an '84, and it's one that needs a lot of work, and I was trying to decide wether it was a good idea to throw one of these on. I'm running hot right now.
thanks
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Old Jan 6, 2006 | 10:13 AM
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Wow-you're close to me. No experience with that kit-but it sure is nice to have the aux. fan-my main fan motor went south on me one summer but the aux. fan saved my bacon lol. BTW-how hot are you running? and have you checked for debri between the radiator and condensor?
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Old Jan 6, 2006 | 10:48 AM
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I removed mine and ran 8° cooler. The fan will only turn on under, hmm 40 MPH? What temp. are you running at? Mine runs right around 190° with a 180° thermostat on a hot day and at 180° on cool days.
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Old Jan 6, 2006 | 12:35 PM
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If you think you need it, then you also think the original design was faulty. It wasn't and it works just fine with the one fan (and a lot of Vettes left the factory with just one) as long as the cooling system is in good shape. The aux fan was an option, at least up until '89. It should rarely if ever come on (I test mine every now and then by putting the nose up against the garage wall when it's 95 or so). Considering the addtional electrical load, it can overtax the alternator at idle, especially with high ambient temps. Once that happens, fan speed is going to drop and temps will rise even with both running. Come to think of it, the design flaw is the alternator, but that's been the subject of thousands of other posts.
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Old Jan 6, 2006 | 02:04 PM
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My 1984 has only one fan, it IT rarely comes on. And I have it set to come on at a lower temp that the factory provides. I would think your time and efforts would be better spent toward curing the cause of the overheating, rather that to try to bandage the problem. An ounce of prevention, vs a pound...

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Old Jan 6, 2006 | 02:48 PM
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Thanks for all the advice guys. I'm running at about 225, but I guess I'll start with just replacing the t-stat with a 180. I don't know what's in there now, as I'm still busy chasing down all sorts of weird mistakes, and mickey-mouse jobs the previous owned of this car made!
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Old Jan 6, 2006 | 02:59 PM
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That's about where it's suppose to come on (and for every car built in the last 25 years or so, that's the temp the fan comes on at). The key is that it stays around 225 and if the system is clean, it should drop some and the fan should turn off before the whole cycle is repeated. That reduces alternator load and keeps the battery happy. Going to a lower number on the thermostat isn't going to change it. Otherwise, running the a/c provides a different route for the ECM to ground the fan relay and if it's charged properly, you'll generally see lower temps (because good a/c operation requires lower operating temps).
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Old Jan 6, 2006 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by koaea
I guess I'll start with just replacing the t-stat with a 180.
The stock thermostat is a 195°. Installing a lower temp stat will not make it run cooler. If it did, why would you see 225° with a 195° stat? The thermostat has no control over how hot the engine can run, it only controls how cool it can run. When was the cooling system last flushed? When was the area between the radiator and the condenser cleaned out? Does the system hold pressure? I wouldn't worry too much about fixing or crutching things until they have been maintained.

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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 02:21 AM
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Well, I got to looking between the radiator and condenser, and it was full of crap for sure, and it was pissing a little steam as well. So, I'm trying to decide if it's worth while to put a bigger radiator in, or just have my rodded and repaired? I think I've read that there was an option for a larger radiator in '84. Did I hear right? Anyone got any advice?
thanks
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 02:51 AM
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Originally Posted by SunCr
It wasn't and it works just fine with the one fan (and a lot of Vettes left the factory with just one) as long as the cooling system is in good shape.

I have just one fan. I however installed their low temp fan switch and drilled a few small holes in a 170 degree T-stat, the vette stays just below 200 degrees in the hottest of california days, even in traffic. Everything else is stock.

Last edited by 86PACER; Jan 9, 2006 at 02:54 AM.
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 03:21 AM
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My auxiliary fan never comes on on its own. What is it set to 238 or something?


Well, it comes on now, because I have an override switch wired to both of them.
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 03:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 86PACER

I have just one fan. I however installed their low temp fan switch and drilled a few small holes in a 170 degree T-stat, the vette stays just below 200 degrees in the hottest of california days, even in traffic. Everything else is stock.

Your drilled stat isn't helping you run cooler btw.
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 03:35 AM
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
Your drilled stat isn't helping you run cooler btw.
Probably not now with the fans coming on early at 200 degrees. I did the holes before the temp switch install and made a huge difference. Average temps went from 240ish to 200-215ish immediately and no more high heat spikes without changing anything else. Only drawback was that it takes just a little longer to come up to temp from a cold start.
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 12:52 PM
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Drilled holes might increase the flow a little bit through the tstat, but so would a high flow stat or pump. It only helps cooling when you need it least. If the holes are small, then it's really nothing compared to the opening size when the tstat warms up. To get any significant flow increase, IMO you need to drill more/bigger holes which would make cold operation suck more than is worth it.

If you did a coolant flush/burp during the tstat mod, I bet that's the biggest reason for your temp drops.

Not trying to be overly critical... just want it to be known that drilling the tstat is not the best option (for those who haven't already.)
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 01:28 PM
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Many a good mechanics have drilled the holes in the thermostat-as you stated, all I know for sure is it really helped on my Diesel Suburban.
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster

If you did a coolant flush/burp during the tstat mod, I bet that's the biggest reason for your temp drops.
Nope. By removing the waterneck when it was cold the next morning, I lost almost no coolant. I did the stat with no holes. Temps stayed the same. Let it cool, pulled the stat, and drilled 4 holes in it this time. No flush/burp was done. Instant drop in temps. I hardly drove the vette cause it would almost overheat at a light even after having already done a flush/burp. Sounds like it did not work for you.
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
IMO you need to drill more/bigger holes which would make cold operation suck more than is worth it.

If you did a coolant flush/burp during the tstat mod, I bet that's the biggest reason for your temp drops.

Drilling the stat only aids in purging the air from the cooling system (burping it). The additional coolant flow is nil, and has no affect on the ability to cool the engine. Having the AIR purged from the system DOES increase the effectiveness of the cooling system.

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