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My knock sensor is new, and reads 300 K Ohms on a good quality DVM. Anyone know if that is normal for an 85 Knock Sensor?
I'm having all kinds of timing problems and am looking at all related possibilities. This condition has existed since the engine rebuild.
the sensor is probably way to tight ......sensor should read 9.5 to 10 vcolts @ no detonation, less than 1 volt means it is sensing detonation, or is damaged
Don't know about 85, but a 90 should read 3,300 to 4,500 ohms from sensor terminal to ground. I imagine 85 would be of similar values such that 300 ohm may be indicating a problem. I would remove and check resistance between pin and housing. If still 300, you may have damaged it during installation.
I printed out a thread from over ago (Just found it) that recommended a 4.5k to 5k ohm 1/4 watt resistor to bypass the knock sensor on an 85. I just got back from Radio Shack with a pack of 4.7k ohm resistors, soldered a couple leads to one and "replaced" my knock sensor with it. I just got done with an engine swap in my 85, and I think I may have whacked the side of the sensor when I was lowering the motor into it's mounts, and was unsure of it's operation. I just got back from a quick ride and it seems to be crisper (if you know what I mean). No check engine light. I got on it a couple times after I got all the fluids warm and I didn't hear any spark knock either. I had a 68 camaro with 10.5/1 ratio, so I know what spark knock is. Will play with the Gtech tomorrow....wife getting a little annoyed......
Problem is that the pipe thread is not deep enough to engage the KS more than 50% so people apply more torque... especially since this has coolant behind it, so none of us want it to back out or leak coolant. Best solution is to chase the threads with the 1/8 NPT tap (I think that's what it is) either at overhaul or with grease to try to trap the metal bits from invading your cooling system, and then install with a light coating of teflon Pipe Dope. Teflon tape is nicer to clean up and remove, but it's not as good of a seal for 20psi of coolant or steam.
I understand that this thread is quite old but I’ve been dealing with some pinging and when i tested my sensor on my 86 i got 166kohms. Would you happen to know if that’s an acceptable value?
I understand that this thread is quite old but I’ve been dealing with some pinging and when i tested my sensor on my 86 i got 166kohms. Would you happen to know if that’s an acceptable value?
I just measured a new knock sensor on my '86 C4 and it's 99.9klohms. FYI, when it started pinging, it turned out to be a blown head gasket. I found it using the radiator fume testing method. Good luck.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by DJJ123
I understand that this thread is quite old but I’ve been dealing with some pinging and when i tested my sensor on my 86 i got 166kohms. Would you happen to know if that’s an acceptable value?
The internal 100k resistor in the early sensors is just there to bleed off voltage occurring during shipping and handling/installation. The ESC module then has an internal 1.5k (IIRC) resistor to set the knock signal input impedance. It sounds like your sensor resistor has broken or degraded, but regardless, I wouldn't expect that 166k reading to be the problem issue.
FWIW, the harness connector (on several model years) was made with some soft conductive metal coating to conform to the sensor terminal for a good low-resistance connection to the sensor. The downside of this is that the harness connector has a limited ability to survive much much more than a handful of connections and disconnections. If your connector has intermittent continuity, that can make the ESC module think that there is knock going on when there actually isn't any.