C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

86 Fuel Pump replacement

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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 09:00 PM
  #21  
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I thought you had a 1984??? What are you going to do for help with Crossfire problems? Your car is speed density, that book is for a MAF system. Yes, it would be just as good for a fuel pump, but you know how to replace that, now. If you can get it for next to nothing go for it, but don't let that delay you getting one for YOUR car. www.helminc.com It costs about the same as replacing a fuel pump you don't need.

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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 09:07 PM
  #22  
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no I have an 86. says so in the title. this thread is cursed.. people misreading all over the place.
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 09:20 PM
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11.7 volts at idle is bad. Should be about 13.9 or so. I would investigate and solve your charging issue first. Low voltage causes hundreds of problems on these cars.
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Old Jan 8, 2006 | 12:44 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Pete K
11.7 volts at idle is bad. Should be about 13.9 or so. I would investigate and solve your charging issue first. Low voltage causes hundreds of problems on these cars.
That's not at idle. It's when he goes to start the car. RPM's are at zero.

Last edited by 86PACER; Jan 8, 2006 at 12:54 AM.
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Old Jan 8, 2006 | 01:24 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by MNorlander
First it was the alternator, then it was the coil, now it's the fuel pump..
So let me ask you this. Was the alternator and coil replaced in an attempt to fix this problem and still would not start? Is this just what someone is telling you that you need to replace or are these just things you did replace that were seperate from this problem?

Don't be surprised if that shop manual you are looking at gets bid up close to the cost of a brand new one. They are worth every penny though.

Last edited by 86PACER; Jan 8, 2006 at 01:26 AM.
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Old Jan 8, 2006 | 03:37 AM
  #26  
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to test, I jumped one of the aldl leads with a hot wire from the battery and heard it run while the car was off. It is explained in the manual how to test. The best way is pulling out the pump and manually putting 12 volts to the positive wire and grounding the negative wire. You bypass any relays and test the source.
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Old Jan 8, 2006 | 08:01 AM
  #27  
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Default yes it is that easy...

be carefull about the flow of a factory or oe replacement fuel pump if you have a highly modified early c4... only good for engines making under 350-400hp... when i put a 383 in mine, i'd burn lean on the e-way... very bad! I replaced mine with a high-flow internal from ecklers and have not had a problem. (with one hand, in 15-20 min)
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Old Jan 8, 2006 | 08:23 AM
  #28  
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If you do determine it's the fuel pump-I'm with CFI, get the sock with the pump and also a new in line fuel filter. I'm just curious how these guys determined your fuel pump was losing pressure-what test did they use? because if they hooked a fuel pressure guage to the schrader valve and it lost pressure this COULD mean leaky injectors.And with these guys telling you that you need to drop the tank to replace the fuel pump-who knows how they tested the fuel pump. Hope you get your Helms soon.
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Old Jan 8, 2006 | 01:05 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by madmike
to test, I jumped one of the aldl leads with a hot wire from the battery and heard it run while the car was off. It is explained in the manual how to test. The best way is pulling out the pump and manually putting 12 volts to the positive wire and grounding the negative wire. You bypass any relays and test the source.
If you are talking about testing the fuel pump, jumping at the ALDL bypasses the relay, also.


Originally Posted by MNorlander
no I have an 86. says so in the title. this thread is cursed.. people misreading all over the place.
I don't know where I got the impression it was an '84. I apologize. Proceed as planned, on the manual.

Have you charged the battery? Didn't you say that you replaced the alternator???

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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 09:43 PM
  #30  
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[QUOTE]If you are talking about testing the fuel pump, jumping at the ALDL bypasses the relay, also.

If jumping the ALDL doesnt start the pump I would still check after pulling itCould be a bad connection . Always good to check ground zero. Saves alot of money.Im not sure if the relay grounds the pump also or just provides 12 volts positive. Could be a bad wire between the ALDL and the pump. Highly unlikely but it could happen...
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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 11:59 PM
  #31  
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Buy the shop manual period! If you can't fix it with the Helms manual here are the reasons why:
Don't have time
Don't have tools
Can't read
Even if you can't fix it, if you read through the trouble charts you can probably figure out what is wrong with it by the symptoms!
Heck, get a can of starting fluid and shoot some down the intake, if it sputters and tries to start you can figure it is a fuel problem. You can actually check the fuel pressure with a tire gauge if your back yard enough. If you have fuel pressure and starting fluid makes it run a little you can have a bad ECM because that would make you think the injectors weren't being pulsed. If it still doesn't try and start go back to spark tests.

JS
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