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First it was the alternator, then it was the coil, now it's the fuel pump..
My vette has been very difficult to start as of late, and when I had it diagnosed for a bad coil, the mechanic also told me my fuel pump was losing pressure. He quoted me $450 to replace it, I told him no thanks. I was at Kragen today and the pump itself only costs $89.
I talked to a few guys and they all said that in order to replace the fuel pump you need to drop the tank out from below(many labor hours at a shop). I know I cannot do this at home, but I was wondering where I could go to get it done cheaply if I already have the pump?
I am a working student and everything is paid for out of my earnings.. I hope you understand. I know there are a lot of people in Northern California, so I am in the East Bay in Pleasanton. Any suggestions as to where to look would be appreciated.. I have a feeling that the pump might die pretty soon.
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Originally Posted by MNorlander
I talked to a few guys and they all said that in order to replace the fuel pump you need to drop the tank out from below(many labor hours at a shop).
Well, not a single one of those guys has changed a C4 fuel pump then.
It's a 30 minute job. I'd show you how it's done for free if you lived nearby. You can do it in a parking lot quite easily. You'll need a T15 torx bit, a 10 or 12mm socket and extension, and some pliers. Some of the parts store pumps don't have the right plugs so you could need wire strippers and a soldering gun too.
Seriously, you don't need a tutorial. Open the gas door, remove the rubber spill guard from around the filler neck and it's self explanatory from there. I had the wires break inside the little plastic piece on top of the lid and the dealership told me you had to replace the whole pump unit. I dremeled out the plastic, resoldered the wires, then used a two part epoxy to replace the dremeled plastic.... piece of cake.
From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
Its very easy but one word of caution. Be very careful removing the pump. The suction line is covered in a metal mesh "sock". You can damage the sock if you pull hard on the pump assembly. THe fuel guage float is also attached and here again you must be gentle removing the pump.
Disconnect the battery. Remove the four torx screws holding the fuel door cover . Carefully remove with out tearing the rubber shroud around the filler neck. Clean all the dirt and crap off the access plate and top of tank. Disconnect the fuel pump wires. Remove all the screws around the access plate on top of the tank. Pry up the cover and try to not tear the gasket. remove the pump assembly. Install the pump cartridge. Reverse the removal instruction order.
Your done! While I had the pump out I siphoned the tank out and wiped out the interior. Checked with a flashlight for debris and bladder damage. Then sealed it up and filled with gas. Now is also a good time to do a simple fuel guage calibration. Start with pouring in only two gallons. Fire up the engine and wait a few minutes for the sender and guage to settle. Record the tank level and add fuel at two gallon increments (or whatever you'd like).
Trust me. It'll take longer to clean up your mess than replace the pump.
First it was the alternator, then it was the coil, now it's the fuel pump..
My vette has been very difficult to start as of late, and when I had it diagnosed for a bad coil, the mechanic also told me my fuel pump was losing pressure. He quoted me $450 to replace it, I told him no thanks. I was at Kragen today and the pump itself only costs $89.
You have thrown plenty of money at this thing already. Have you confirmed that you need a new pump? It starts hard, but how does it run after it's started? Test the pump. You may not need one. It is an approx $100.00 investment, but a factory service manual will save you BIG bucks in the long (and even the short) run.
Originally Posted by JrRifleCoach
Its very easy but one word of caution. Be very careful removing the pump. The suction line is covered in a metal mesh "sock". You can damage the sock if you pull hard on the pump assembly.
Don't sweat damaging the sock. You are nuts if you replace the pump without replacing the sock, at the same time. BTW, my sock is a nylon or other similar synthetic fabric mesh, not metal.
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Check your PMs. Also, during the priming I mentioned, the fuel pump should make a steady 2 second hum. If it gurgles, studders, or sounds like it's spitting air, then that's a sign that it's failing.
I had a bad stumbling restart last week right before a road trip, started thinking it was the fuel pump, so I bought one from autozone real quick, and brought the few tools I'd need to replace it. I figured if it died in the middlle of the desert, It'd only be a 20 min delay.
I'm gonna keep that fuel pump as a spare in the car from now on. It's one of the few failures that can leave you stranded.
Ok this is great, I will most likely end up doing this myself. However just to make sure that the fuel pump is what is wrong, I have taken some pics and sound of me trying to start the car. Hopefully this will give someone some insight.
This picture is what happens immediately following either turning the key to turn on electronics or when I try and start the car. I'm talking about the red light next to the voltage display on the cluster.
And this pic is what it goes back to after ~8seconds(varies) and is what I'm thinking should be normal.
I replaced the fuel pump on my 86 last summer. I bought the pump and sock for Autozone. The change was eazy. Just as discribed in the above post. The only mistake I made was reading the instructions. I wired it as per instructions. The only problem it ran backwards. I double checked the instructions and I had it wired exaclly as written. Pulled the pump again and changed the wires and it worked fine. The only pain was the connector plugs were different and I had to rewire the connectors. If I had just looked at it first, it would have been easier.
I talked to a few guys and they all said that in order to replace the fuel pump you need to drop the tank out from below(many labor hours at a shop). I know I cannot do this at home, but I was wondering where I could go to get it done cheaply if I already have the pump?
They are full of it. They have no clue what they are talking about. In that case, I would second check that it is even the fuel pump that's bad. Sounds like you are getting info from unreliable sources you've spoken with. Like mentioned above, take a listen to the fuel pump when and if it primes. I could not hear it in the sound clip. Have someone turn the key while you listen at the gas cap. That will tell you more than those pics and that sound clip tells us. A shop manual would be a wise investment right about now.
Ok this is great, I will most likely end up doing this myself. However just to make sure that the fuel pump is what is wrong, I have taken some pics and sound of me trying to start the car. Hopefully this will give someone some insight.!
The pictures give no clue as to the condition of the fuel pump. The pictures DO show that you are low on gasoline. Is that the problem? I didn't have 15 minutes to wait for your sound bite to download, so I don't know how the car sounds while it is cranking. Does it crank steadily and at a normal speed? Does it eventually start? If it does, how does it run? Did you, can you, TEST the fuel pump?
The red light is on next to the 11.3 volts, because that is pretty low. It is a warning light, like on a car without gauges. With your car, you get both. I'd say it's time to charge the battery. If it won't hold a charge you may need a new battery. From the theme of your post, however, the battery is the least of your problems.
The red light is on next to the 11.3 volts, because that is pretty low. It is a warning light, like on a car without gauges. With your car, you get both. I'd say it's time to charge the battery. If it won't hold a charge you may need a new battery. From the theme of your post, however, the battery is the least of your problems.
I don't think the voltage has anything to do with this. When mine sits for several days, it still cranks up every time even with 10 volts showing. 11 plus volts should be plenty despite the warning light. It sounds from the clip that it's cranking just fine.
Do you have dial-up? Took me about 5 seconds with DSL.
I do have dial up. Plus a balky and old computer. When I first clicked on it, it gave an estimate of 15 minutes. The number was starting to drop, even as the download was getting started, but I said, "Baloney, I don't have time for THIS", and canceled. I appreciate your relaying that the cranking sounds fine.
Originally Posted by 86PACER
Maybe I missed something. I see almost 3/4 tank of gas showing.
Maybe this is my week for hallucinations. I could have sworn I saw the red "Reserve" light on the gas gauge, earlier. It looks good since you mentioed it.
This boy needs a FSM badly. And a day or two studying it.
Definately double check to make sure it's the fuel pump, specially if it came from someone who says you need to drop the tank of a C4 to change it. It might very well be, just double check their word. I hate replacing parts and not fixing the problem.