I am about to install a SuperRam Intake/Runners/Plenum on my 90 L98. I have seen several threads mentioning vacuum leaks associated with the SR. Is there something I should do while installing the SR that I would not normally do when installing any other TPI setup? What areas are prone to leaking? Thanks for the help.

90Indy

 

EDIT: Okay... I'll be nice. Basically, pay attention to detail and make sure you evenly tighten all the bolts. You've got 5 seperate peices coming together on that intake so most people generally do run into a vacuum leak somewhere or another. My biggest problem was actually the intake base to the cylinder heads - but most don't have that issue. Do NOT use sealer - it will only make removal almost impossible but I do actually use a little on the plenum cover since that has a tendency to warp.

Oh, and after you run the car and heat-cycle the gaskets they will shrink (and they'll compress a little over time) so you'll need to go back and tighten everything up again (esp the runner to plenum bolts). Just remember this is aluminum, so don't go nuts.

 

What does this mean?

90Indy

 

Sounds like it is common sense and taking it one step at a time to ensure things are done right. This is the way I would install anything on my car. I'm glad to hear it's nothing mysterious and that I will not have to sacrifice my first born. Thanks for the input.

90indy

 

There are those that trust the SR gaskets and those that don't. I didn't, when I had the SR I used sealer on every gasket to be sure there were no leaks. I only wanted to do it once. My SR never leaked!!!!

 

 

I like your single plane better. I bet that is probably uber leak proof. What made you switch your intake?

 

your preperation for this task is normal. with all the normal questions. but what you fail to realize is your not dealing with a normal install. at least normal fitting ect... the sr has got to be one of the most poorly planned and engineered after market part iv ever had the pleasure of installing. as for leaks use plenty of rtv. i did the second time around. you should do a search here on the fourm discussing the sr you will run across how some people usd hex bolts in stead of the allen on some holes, how some people installed the thing with the bolts on the inside instead of underneath ect.... not trying to say it doesnt perform im happy with mine and could tell a big diff. but if i had it to do over again it would not be the sr and not just cause of the install. but thats just my 02 maybe a little more than you ask. good luck

 

How you detected this leak? Have you noted oil consumption from the lifter valley?
This problem is releted to the Accel intake base?
Your heads are milled ...the block also?
How you correctet the problem?
You detected oil in the intake surface/head (intake side) surface when you reinstalled?
Sorry for all the questions but probalbly I'm in the same boat with my SR.
Thanks
-Beppe-

 

When I installed my SR I wound up with a vacuum leak on the right rear runner at the manifold. Accel machined the slot for the EGR too long and the slot went beyond the gasket!! Found leak by spraying starter fluid around intake. When I reasembled SR I used silicon sealer on everything!! FWIW.

Larry

 

I glued my gaskets on one side of the surfaces only. I never had any issues. it also made pulling it apart easier as the gasket was glued to one side.

I pulled mine apart more then a few times.

I went ahead and put allen head bolts around the perimiter of the bottom of the plenum. I ground down a allen wrench and it made installing a lot easier then the stock bolts. plus the big allen head bolts gave my fingers something to really hold on to while starting the threads.

I also made the top two bolts in the centers of the plenum, install inside the plenum. this took 1/2 the pain in the *** factor out of installing. you drill out the threads in the plenum, tap the inner runners, and use silicone to seal them, and make sure they stay in there.

you will also want to run a tap through all bolt holes to make sure they are set to go. this will help when you go to install all the PITA bolts.
I also used anti seize to help them thread in easier.

also, I installed the runners loose to the base. then I got all the bolts into the plenum, then I tightened down the runners, then I tightened down the plenum. this helps get things lined up. some people tighten the runners all the way down and they cant get all the bolts to the plenum lined up.

Another thing I did was run my injector wires inside the runners.
I was pulling the valve covers off a lot and this got the wire loom out of my way. I also wrapped the wires in some heat shield. if you dont pull your valve covers often, lol, then it may be best to run them outside the runners.

 

I've had zero problems, its been running since last July.

I had a competent mechanic do it. No stress, no frustration even on his part, and it was the 1rst time he ever did a superram. Done in 3 hours. He's happy, I'm happy.

I had him install dry gaskets, NO SEALER. No crap to deal with, next time the intake would need removed.

 

What GREAT technical advice. I learned a LOT from that.

Could you possibly give us all a list of issues your mechanic encountered installing that SuperRam intake?
What if the mechanic is not as 'competent' as the one you used?
Did he use sealent to help sealing? Did he change any of the bolt configuration as some of the folks here have done?
Do you think he would come on here and give us some technical tips on the SuperRam install?

 

buy a smoke machine

that is what the shop I turned mine over to after failing the install

 

3 hour install is 2 hours too long for me. **** that!

my main hang up was the inner plenum to runner bolts. after modding those, I can get it in, in 45 mins to an hour.

tightening those runners down becomes the hard part.
I also made a tool, which was something like a 1/4 extension, and allen bit glued into a socket (what ever size fits the allen bit) to reduce the effects of losing the allen bit when moving between bolts.

 

2 reasons that I went to single plane:

1) thought it would save my Dana44, But my thinking was in error on this. At the end of the season my 60 foots were better or equal to the SR. - 1.51

2) give me more up top. Instead of shifting at 5600 I shift at 6200.

And a slight added benefit - intake off in less than 15 minutes.

All in all, this was a very good move for me

 

I am getting ready to install the runners and plenum (already have the base on for several months). I talked to a tech at Accel who helps with the dyno runs on the SR (not the normal reps at Accel which is the phone number given on the instruction sheet). He suggested you throw out the 1/4 12 point bolts and go with 1/4"-28 studs that are about 1" long. The top half of the stud is size 20 threads. Then use the special nut with a "star" washer that is part of the nut itself. He indicated that this would reduce your install time 45 minutes or more.

I did some porting and gasket matching of the runners to the plenum etc and have the studs in place. I used thread lock for the stud to plenum to be sure they stayed. I had to grind some material off the runners for the nuts to clear the runners. Just waiting for the time to do the final install.

 

Mine was done dry gaskets twice because I had bad new injectors. Although people moan about bolting the thing together, it all about patience. I practiced putting mine together several times before even putting it on the engine. One thing I found with mine was that the top lid holes did not exactly match the threaded holes beneath. I had to drill my plate slightly once I marked which direction I needed the bolt holes to match. In 4 years, I have never had a leak. A propane torch with the flame (on low), held around the parts that come together will tell you right away if you have a leak. The engine rpms increase and you will hear it (like the lighter fluid method). Have a fire extinguisher handy too, just in case you get an errant spark that lights your propane (oh and don't smoke either). Good Luck.

 

Actually, neither the heads, block or intake were touched. I think it was the trickflow heads I received, as several intakes were not quite a perfect fit on the same heads/block and I have to use overthick gaskets. I DO use RTV on the manifold to intake gaskets for placement (to hold the gaskets in place) and for sealing coolant etc. No biggie, just live and learn. Seems like every part I buy has a certain "character" to it - including the superram!

However, a properly assembled intake shouldn't need sealant on the runners/plenum since there's plenty of contact area with the gaskets. If anything, using RTV on those parts makes it a PAIN to get apart, and I like to reuse the gaskets when possible. And I recommend re-tightening all the bolts anyway after a heat cycle or two. And I've only stripped one bolt hole in 5 removal/installs... luckily it was in an accessable place.

 

Do you have any pics of this setup ? It sounds like a great idea.

Vic