C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

what double roller timing set/chain?

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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 04:23 PM
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Default what double roller timing set/chain?

alrighty guys i am installing the hot cam along with all its goodies but using comp cams 986-16 springs and comp retianers.
this is on my 1996 auto stock bottom end lt1

i would like to upgrade to a doulbe roller. where do i get the timing set and chain?
and from who?
is cloyles the best?

thanks your friend
Sean
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 04:34 PM
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Cloyes is a good way to go. Summit usually has it, I don't know the part number off hand but it should be just the standard double roller for use with SBC with factory hydraulic roller camshaft. Remember if you go this way you will have to use an electric water pump.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 04:48 PM
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I believe it's summit part number CLO-9-3145
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 04:49 PM
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hmmm darn.. thats just more $....

now what about the lt4 heavy duty timing set? is that a good piece?
how does it compare to the cloyles?

thanks Nathan
your friend
Sean
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 04:51 PM
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The LT4 timing chain will cost you a good deal more than the Cloyes chain, but you won't need the electric water pump. The cost differential really isn't THAT much, it depends on what you want to do with it.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 04:56 PM
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well
im running n20 as is.
and eventually ill go to a stroked bottom end.
no time soon though.

i already have an overdrive pulley on the alt and a n20 system
all of which put a "drain" on the battery.
im afraid if i did an electric pump with the n20 system and all the stuff for it that one would malfunction.
what do you think?

also how much would an electric pump run me?
thanks your friend
Sean
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 05:06 PM
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An electric water pump runs about $200. Your nitrous doesn't fire unless you're running WOT so your alternator should be up to speed at that point. The only time you might have problems would be at idle. You could also go with a 200 amp alternator from powermaster, they put out as much at idle as your stocker does at speed, or so they claim.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 05:14 PM
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it is still damn cheap to do a cloye double roller conversion because you already got a 96 is a+. Your cost is $80 cloye chain. $214 electric water pump HD. That is.

No need timing cover $80 new
no need new opti $250 New
no need opti electrical connect $85 new
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 07:29 PM
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this is true Nathan!
I didnt even think about when the load would be applied.

.. i guess i need to go this route....

Bruce i still need to go with the double roller timing set and chain right?

now do you guys recomend the Mezi unit? if so which one?

thanks your friend
Sean
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 07:59 AM
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When you order your CLO-9-3145 $79 it come with double chain and gears. Make sure your buy the electric water pump HD (Heavy Duty rated 55gallon per hrs) Ebay cost $214 free shipping.
$50 for oil pan gasket
$8 ? timing gasket. Yopu are done spending. $$
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 08:05 AM
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Damn, what type of pan gasket are you looking at? You can get an SCE from Summit that has the metal grommets and such for like $24 unless the price has doubled since I last bought one. (Which is entirely possible)
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 12:35 PM
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where can i get a good valve grind gasket set?


thanks guys... ok im saving up the $ as we speak.. the cam and such should be here today
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 02:44 PM
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If you're going to pull the timing cover you really should replace the seals in it as well...they have a tendenct of getting a bit hard and might not seal as well if you re-use them. Nothing is more annoying than putting an engine back together only to get an oil leak!!
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 02:47 PM
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Yeah I've only done that half a million times. I finally just gave up, the bastard is just gonna leak.
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 03:22 PM
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The Cloyes 3145 is a good chain. I use it. Remember you will also need some thinner bolts on the cam retention plate to make the Cloyes 3145 fit. This will cost about 1 dollar.
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Nathan Plemons
Yeah I've only done that half a million times. I finally just gave up, the bastard is just gonna leak.
I just use a boat-load of Ultra Grey silicone...you practically need a prybar to get the engine apart...but it doesn't leak!
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 03:27 PM
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If I ever have the engine completely out of the car, I'll make it not leak. Until then I'm entirely sick of screwing with it! I actually got it to not leak for about 6 months once.
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To what double roller timing set/chain?

Old Jan 18, 2006 | 03:40 PM
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oh yea hah the seals.... now are these press fit in?

is there anyplac ei can buy the oil seals, and valve grind gasket set?
thanks your friend
Sean
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 03:46 PM
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There's a special tool you need for the water pump drive seal, but if you go with an electric pump you won't be needing that, just plug the hole on the timing cover completely. The other two seals are press-fit if I remember correctly, just be careful with them...they are pretty delicate. Also, you have a '96, so if you go with a double roller chain you won't be able to put the crank sensor trigger back in, there's not enough room. Just leave it out, it won't hurt anything...but to make sure you don't get any codes you'll need to have the codes programmed out of the computer.
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 03:50 PM
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now when u say just plug the hole... with what?
welding and sanding it down?

whats the function of the CPS(crank positon sensor) i have lt1 edit so im sure i can edit it out... some how.. it wont run like crap til i do will it?

thanks alot your friend
Sean
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