C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Clutch Question?

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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 03:57 PM
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Default Clutch Question?

Well, I would like to apologze in advance for asking this question, b/c it's probably been asked before, but after 20 mins of forum searching I haven't been able to come up with an answer. So anyway...

I just put a set of 315 nittos on my 96 LT4. After the purchase and install I was eager to get the car out on the street and see how they felt. Well, I guess my clutch isn't as strong as I thought it was. If the clutch is released @4.5k+ it spins, if is released 1.5k it bogs, and if it is released optimally at 2.5k-3.5k it slips the clutch. Im slightly frustrated b/c I knew in the back of my mind the car might not be able to handle the big DR's. However, Iv'e been planning on replacing the clutch anyway so why not just do it now.

Does any have any previous experience with replacing the stock clutch with an aftermarket unit. If so, what did you guys use, and how did it work out?

I have heard the the fidanza flywheels are great, but are noisy... I don't really mind the noise as long as they work.

The car will never go 400hp+ but hopefully around 380ish cam only. What are some choices? thanks guys!
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 07:52 PM
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ttt
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 09:45 PM
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I'm interested also.
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 10:25 PM
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How many miles on the car? Make sure the hydraulic system is functioning properly, but the clutch is probably the culprit.
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 10:49 PM
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I also have 315 Nitto DR for the race track on my 92 6spd (Sumitomo 315s for everyday). I have a Fidanza Alum Flywheel and a Spec Stage 3 clutch.
Yes the tranny is loud at idle, it sounds like a bucket of rocks is rolling around in there from outside the car, inside the car its not that bad IMO. Honestly I like the flywheel, it made a big difference in the way my car accelerates from a roll and it is way easier to launch althou I did have to raise my RPM a bit to keep it from bogging on the DRs. The only thing I don't like is the slight vibration between 4000-5000 RPM, due to the LT1/4 balance issues, its only really noticeable when you rev the car in neutral or wth the clutch pushed in.
Now for the Spec Stage 3 clutch. Its an 8 puck sprung hub. First the bad... Didn't play well with the little counter sunk holes in the Alum flywheels bolt on steel friction face for about the first 1000 miles or so, it just made a grinding noise that took me a few tranny removals, before I figured out what was causing it. The noise eventually went away completely after about 1000 miles of driving. Now for the good. It does not slip and so far after about 5000 miles of an absolute beating on it, it continues to work like a champ. I drive it every day (in DC) and thou its a bit tricky in traffic anyone can manage it with a little practice.
I know some people have different opinions of these 2 prouducts but thats my 2 cents.
Will
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by bizibiz
How many miles on the car? Make sure the hydraulic system is functioning properly, but the clutch is probably the culprit.
The car has high mileage at around 104k, and I assume that the previous owner never replaced the clutch. I am positive that the clutch in some form or another is weak.

Originally Posted by rklessdriver
I also have 315 Nitto DR for the race track on my 92 6spd (Sumitomo 315s for everyday). I have a Fidanza Alum Flywheel and a Spec Stage 3 clutch.
Yes the tranny is loud at idle, it sounds like a bucket of rocks is rolling around in there from outside the car, inside the car its not that bad IMO. Honestly I like the flywheel, it made a big difference in the way my car accelerates from a roll and it is way easier to launch althou I did have to raise my RPM a bit to keep it from bogging on the DRs. The only thing I don't like is the slight vibration between 4000-5000 RPM, due to the LT1/4 balance issues, its only really noticeable when you rev the car in neutral or wth the clutch pushed in.
Now for the Spec Stage 3 clutch. Its an 8 puck sprung hub. First the bad... Didn't play well with the little counter sunk holes in the Alum flywheels bolt on steel friction face for about the first 1000 miles or so, it just made a grinding noise that took me a few tranny removals, before I figured out what was causing it. The noise eventually went away completely after about 1000 miles of driving. Now for the good. It does not slip and so far after about 5000 miles of an absolute beating on it, it continues to work like a champ. I drive it every day (in DC) and thou its a bit tricky in traffic anyone can manage it with a little practice.
I know some people have different opinions of these 2 prouducts but thats my 2 cents.
Will
I have looked into the spec clutches slightly and also the spec flywheels. Do you think there are any advantages to the fidanza aluminum flywheel compared to the spec aluminum flywheel? Also, I need a disc not a puck (personal preference) and was considering the spec stage 1 or 2. Any particular reason you didn't go with a disc instead?
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 12:35 AM
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I replaced my stock clutch with a Fidanza/StageII combo and will probably go back to the stock clutch in the near future. I had the flywheel matched balanced, so I don't have vibration issues, but it's a commute car and I am burning up the clutch in local start and stop traffic conditions. It does sound like loose rocks rotating in the transmission when you are in nuetral and the clutch is out. You can't really hear it unless you are outside the car. On the upside I like the response when I do get a chance to run through the gears.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by brettp1
I replaced my stock clutch with a Fidanza/StageII combo and will probably go back to the stock clutch in the near future. I had the flywheel matched balanced, so I don't have vibration issues, but it's a commute car and I am burning up the clutch in local start and stop traffic conditions. It does sound like loose rocks rotating in the transmission when you are in nuetral and the clutch is out. You can't really hear it unless you are outside the car. On the upside I like the response when I do get a chance to run through the gears.
By stage II, you mean stage II spec, right?

Im thinking I'll go with the spec Steel FW to keep the noise down (a little) and go with the matching stage II spec clutch assembly. Spec is having a special on the net right now so I need to act soon. Any other suggestions or reccomendations?
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 96Eric
By stage II, you mean stage II spec, right?

Im thinking I'll go with the spec Steel FW to keep the noise down (a little) and go with the matching stage II spec clutch assembly. Spec is having a special on the net right now so I need to act soon. Any other suggestions or reccomendations?
I'd do a couple of searches using "SPEC" first. IMO they'd be my last choice.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 06:36 PM
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1) Any advantage over using one brand over the other?? I doubt it other than you get everything from one place, so less people to deal with if somethings wrong or messed up. I bought a Fidanza because I got a good deal on it lightly used from a forum member who didn't like it.
2) The reason I didnt go with a disk type clutch?? The puck style offered more holding power and the price diference wasn't enough to bother me. Also I've used puck style clutchs in my cars for a very long time and their very grabby engagement characteristics don't bother me ( a lot of people can't deal with them). Spec makes a new Stage 3+ that has a less aggressive disk type friction material I think. Someone else should chime on this as I haven't seen one, only heard about it.

As for Spec being the last choice... like I said there are a lot of varying opionions. I have had nothing but good experience with their clutches in the past and this current one in my 92 is everything it was so posed to be. I've dropped my car from 5500 RPM on 26X11.5 ET streets at the race track repeatly and its still in there 5000 miles later, driving in DC traffic almost every day (but the orginal half shaft u-joints aren't, hence I now run Drag radials at the track). And I don't mean I did this once, I raced my car in this manner every weekend for over 2 months before u-joints started breaking and I decided to put DRs on it. I know everyone hasn't had this kind of luck with Specs prouduct and I respect that, but this isn't the first one of their clutches I've beat the living **** out of and it kept comming back for more.
Will
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 09:08 PM
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If you are not going to do much racing, i'd go with stock. I've seen stock c4 clutches handle some mild stroker engines pretty well. Aftermarket is obviously better, but not be as user friendly as stock
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