ive weighed the cons and the cons and will prob. stick with going with a 100 shot and a good tune on stock internals- dont want to push it

How much am i looking at for a good 10lb Wet Nitrous sys. install included-All the goodies- master on / fuel pressure switch / WOT / atleast 2 or maybe 3 solenoids(Overkill protection) / ignition RPM limiter / window switch / timing retard of 2-3 degrees / nitrous filer / colder plugs with .01 shorter gap / purge / bottle heater / gauges /
New fuel pump

What else and how much Out the door??

 

There's lots of ways you could do it. I'd prolly recommend a Mallory 685 Ignition box. It's ~$225 but it'll control WOT N20 activation, timing retard when spraying, window switch, and a host of non-nitrous related features. Infact, if you use that box the only switch's you'll need is a fuel pressure safety switch and a master arm.

The price can vary dramatically on solenoids depending on brand. A NOS powershot solenoid can be had on ebay for as little as $20-30, where an NX solenoid can be upwards of $200. It all depends on what you want.

I've got about 30 hours of labor into my N20 kit, maybe more. I used a Mallory 685 ignition box, Jacobs nitrous mastermind, machined 2 NOS nozzles into the TB, built some stealth switches into the seat, and hid the install under the hood. In my set-up, I have about $2500 in parts including all the wiring, connections, switchs, igntion box, progressive controller, in car wideband, pillar gauges, bottle, feed lines, and the other stuff I am forgetting.

Your question is really vague, and pretty much impossible to answer. If you supplied all the components, I would charge about $500-700 to duplicate the install on my car. To go super stealth and literally make the kit impossible to detect, the install could be upwards of 2k. You could also get a cheap, blatantly apparent install for much less.

You could do it all for as little as $500, or you could spend $5,000. There's no way for us to answer your question.

 

Kev

this is what it cost me

i have the barry grant wet lt1 system it was $400 shipped to my door from summit.
nx fir and ice bottle heater... it was like $300 or so.
purge kit, FPSS = another $300.
then to tune my car (Rob at lamar walden said) i had to go to
www.carputing.com or .net cant remember which, and buy lt1 edit.
that was bout $400-75(cant remember exactly).

then Rob installed and tuned the whole thing.. $250
what a deal! he tuned my car off bottle first, thats how ure supposed to do it, and then he tuned the jets on bottle.

also new plugs was about what $50 i think.
and if u ever plan on drag racing at an actual track youll need a blow down tube i think that was like $30 and a blanket too so thats about $30..

so around $1800 +-

the way i see it is theres a right way and a wrong way.
the guys who just put the bottle on with none of that stuff r just trying to gain an extra advantage over ppl the easy way.
on the other hand the guys who get to know and love their n20 system are the guys who are turning way better times and prob have a 100% less chance of F'in up their engine!


all of that's with no retard box and or no controller.
in the future i think i will def go with the maximizer 2... that is when i can afford it as u know haha i need $ for tires etc.

talk to rob. there are alot of cheaper ways to go!
if you tell him everything u want they cna build u a system alot cheaper than u get buy it.
when i told rob what i spent on the whole thing he was like i could have done it for cheaper.



where can i look at this mallory box?

the way i was gonna do it was keep a laptop in my car when racing and then edit the degree of retard vs engine air flow with lt1 edit right b4 i went to race... but when doing that its a heck of alot easier to have a box u can flip toggle switch and have it do it for you.


later your friend
Sean

also Kev i got a book you can borrow if ya want all about n20 performance and installing/buildin your own kit.

 

also as far as injecting the n20/fuel i believe the nossles are the way to go. the design is great eventually i will change my barry grant tb injection to the noszle tb injection as what Neat has done.

they work great because it atomizes the fuel better. it does this by having the n20, with its tremendous pressure, hit the fuel right b4 injecting into the incoming air. it basically rips it apart and provides for more surface area of fuel which is ultimately what you want.



and also the reason the nos solenoids are so cheap is because they are know to fail and be cheap.

if you are talin about 3 solenoids i think 2 is enough.. the n20 solenoids will draw more amperage than any other component in you n20 system.
i think like 6-10 amps.. so multiply that by 3.
you have to make sure each component is gettign the power it needs.

i honestly dont see the huge need for 2-3 solenoids on the n20 side if you have a blow off valve and blow down tube the n20 shouldnt leak to the solenoid. also if you keep the bottle closed until right when ure about to run. still safety first i guess.

2 is mandatory when pulsing the solenoids with a controller.
and you shouldnt need a new fuel pump.

just more food for thought.


your friend
Sean

 

Birdman, everyone is offering good advise so take it all in and form your decision. I have been researching your question for a while now. Since I have an LT4 and am only running a 100 shot max, we have a lot in common. What I have decided to do is run the zex kit with bottle heater,purge and remote opener. I believe the kit has a Fuel pressure switch built in to their box but if not, I'll be getting that as well. The kit they offer appears to be a good bang for the buck. My reasons for this are:
All components, such as the solenoids and activation electronics, are factory pre-assembled inside the Nitrous Management Unit.
It monitors bottle pressure and injects fuel accordingly so you're less likely to run lean or rich.
Easy minimal installation times due to a central contol box.
Fuel Shear technology places the enrichment fuel directly inside the high-speed nitrous oxide plume exiting the nozzle which eliminates fuel puddling that can cause intake backfires.
Electronics learn the throttle position sensor (TPS) voltage curve. It then programs itself and, when armed, will only activate the nitrous system at wide-open throttle. No crappy WOT switch.
These are just a few lines from the manufacturer. Cost is important to me as well. The kit is approx $550 plus the extras you may want. Just don't skimp on the safety items as this may cost you A LOT more down the road.
My .02 Good luck and have fun

 

Thank you all as the rough idea i had was about 2000 plus a tune and retard box.

Thanks!

 

www.centuryperformance.com is where I got my Mallory box from.

Great customer support, and they helped me out on a bunch of technical issues with wiring the MAL-685 and the N20 Mastermind.

Good guys, definitely recommend them.