C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Heat and ABS plastic

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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 12:46 AM
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Default Heat and ABS plastic

I've considered using the "fake" ABS plastic covers as sold by MAMW. In my case, I'd cutout the exhuast hold and plumb them with real exhaust.

Even a 1/4" gap was left around the pipe that went through the "exhaust hole", would heat cause problems?

Not sure about the properties of ABS plastic and/or exhaust pipe temps. I also know the pipe would have to "float" in the hole since exhaust must float. And, I don't know if the pipe would occasionally come close to -- or in contact with the ABS. But, this should be considered in any response.

The paint ON the covers might also be a point for discussion!

Thanks!

FYI: Exhaust heat would NOT be blowing on the covers. The exhaust pipe would NOT sit behind the entire cover (it would come from under the car and straight out the hole). This means the gap between the exhaust pipe and the plastic would be the main point of heat radiation.

Also, the side pipes exits would be ABOUT the same distance from the engine as the pipes under a urethane bumper are -- if that helps determine estimated exhaust PIPE temps.

Last edited by GREGGPENN; Jan 26, 2006 at 12:48 AM.
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 05:42 PM
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No one with experience/ideas about heat and ABS?
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 08:13 PM
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ABS is a thermoplastic which means that you heat it until a glass transistion temperature and form it into shape. Its working temp is much lower than the glass transisition temperature.


I don't know the properties of abs specificallly off the top of my head but I do know that the group of polymers it belongs to generally doesn't have Tglass much hotter than say boiling water. I know also that you can severly degrade that group of polymer by overheating so... its not a good idea to use this in a area where you'll deal with much more than 100 C
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Alvin
ABS is a thermoplastic which means that you heat it until a glass transistion temperature and form it into shape. Its working temp is much lower than the glass transisition temperature.


I don't know the properties of abs specificallly off the top of my head but I do know that the group of polymers it belongs to generally doesn't have Tglass much hotter than say boiling water. I know also that you can severly degrade that group of polymer by overheating so... its not a good idea to use this in a area where you'll deal with much more than 100 C
Thanks! That's really helpful!

Now... What's the highest exhaust PIPE temp you'd expect to see at the rear of a vette... on a hot summer day.... in city traffic.... at a stop light... with no wind.... yadeeyadeeyadee, blah blah blah.....
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 11:51 PM
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I would say hotter than ABS would take reliably.
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 02:21 AM
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That'd be as smart as using aluminum headers.
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 12:21 PM
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But.... but... Everyone's trying to figure out if/how they can use aluminum headers in another thread. Right now!!!!!!!!! I saw it.



How come I'm not the only idiot in this forum!
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
I've considered using the "fake" ABS plastic covers as sold by MAMW. In my case, I'd cutout the exhuast hold and plumb them with real exhaust.

Even a 1/4" gap was left around the pipe that went through the "exhaust hole", would heat cause problems?
Actually, this probably wasn't as dump as it sounds. My muffler shop says there are plenty of cars where the exhaust exits through urethane bumpers -- so he said "Why not". However, he couldn't comment on the properties of ABS vs urethane.

The important thing is not what the surface temp of the pipe would be, but how hot it would radiate 1/4" away. In direct debate, I'm not sure that point was addressed.

BTW: I know exhaust pipes have to "float" and that the 1/4" gap would be variable.
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