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I was wondering what the experts here would think I should expect out of my engine setup.
383
9:0 to 1 (guestimate)
stock ported/polished/siameesed intake/runners/plenum
Ported/polished cast iron heads
Gutted MAF
30 lb Ford injectors
K&N
Cut lid
AFPR set to 43.5
Stock exhaust/cat/mufflers
All smog intact
270-290 duration
470-490 lift
112 ls
1.6 roller rockers
At the dyno it has 245.91 hp @4200 and 331.56 @3500 to the rear wheels.
Wow.. Hope you didn't pay a lot for that engine, or you built in with forced induction or HUGE nitrous shots in mind. Otherwise sounds like a bad/cheapo 383 rebuild...
I put down higher numbers 2 years ago, with my 110K mile bone stock internally engine with just bolt on mods..
Wow.. Hope you didn't pay a lot for that engine, or you built in with forced induction or HUGE nitrous shots in mind. Otherwise sounds like a bad/cheapo 383 rebuild...
I put down higher numbers 2 years ago, with my 110K mile bone stock internally engine with just bolt on mods..
Looks like a decent cam with too low compression. #30 injectors seem like a bit much also.
I was wondering what the experts here would think I should expect out of my engine setup.
383
9:0 to 1 (guestimate)
stock ported/polished/siameesed intake/runners/plenum
Ported/polished cast iron heads
Gutted MAF
30 lb Ford injectors
K&N
Cut lid
AFPR set to 43.5
Stock exhaust/cat/mufflers
All smog intact
270-290 duration
470-490 lift
112 ls
1.6 roller rockers
At the dyno it has 245.91 hp @4200 and 331.56 @3500 to the rear wheels.
There's gotta be something wrong with that dyno if my stock displacement SR'ed L98 is making the same, if not more power at very similar rpms.
Most 383s builds around here would literally walk anything on the street or strip.
Wow.. Hope you didn't pay a lot for that engine, or you built in with forced induction or HUGE nitrous shots in mind. Otherwise sounds like a bad/cheapo 383 rebuild...
I put down higher numbers 2 years ago, with my 110K mile bone stock internally engine with just bolt on mods..
Took the bottom end out of a Camaro that we paid $1000 for. The engine only had 10,000 miles on it when we bought it. The heads were from my race car. Only thing I bought for it was the cam, 1.6 rr, injectors and a few odds and ends. We did the work on the intake ourselves.
Guess I really screwd up on this one. Maybe if I get ambitious I will change the pistons.
Took the bottom end out of a Camaro that we paid $1000 for. The engine only had 10,000 miles on it when we bought it. The heads were from my race car. Only thing I bought for it was the cam, 1.6 rr, injectors and a few odds and ends. We did the work on the intake ourselves.
Guess I really screwd up on this one. Maybe if I get ambitious I will change the pistons.
My plans always reolve around mixing and matching the parts I have. Run it and enjoy it.
Well, you have very low compression, a TPI intake, and what looks like a pretty small cam. That's not the best combination for making power!
Now, one way you could make some good power would be to slap a supercharger ontop of that engine. I recently got to play with e GMZZ383 crate engine with a Vortech supercharger ontop of it and I was extremely impressed at the amount of power it put out.
Otherwise, just out of curiosity, what are the flow numbers for the heads, and what are the cams duration numbers at .050?
Took the bottom end out of a Camaro that we paid $1000 for. The engine only had 10,000 miles on it when we bought it. The heads were from my race car. Only thing I bought for it was the cam, 1.6 rr, injectors and a few odds and ends. We did the work on the intake ourselves.
Guess I really screwd up on this one. Maybe if I get ambitious I will change the pistons.
What type of iron heads came off your race car? What type of valve combo? 1.94/1.50, 2.00/1.55, 2.02/1.6???? Flow numbers? Intake runner size? Combustion chamber shape/size? I'm hoping that its a good set of irons or else that setup might be a possible mismatched 383. Your peak torque might be in the diesel range. Intake and/or possibly the heads are choking it.
Was the A/F ratio ever checked? Those are awfully big injectors for that fuel pressure on such an RPM limited engine. That cam isn't too small, really, considering the intake and the 9.0:1 C/R.
I do have a custom chip in it. A/F ratio on the last dyno run was high 12's. Valves are 2.02 and 1.6. I think the heads are 76cc chambers. Very low compression engine. Maybe a new set of heads would do me better even if they aren't ported and polished. Oh well, she runs good. It's not like I am going to be racing it or anything. Another thing is I am only getting 12 miles to the gallon and my readout on the dash says I am getting 17.
I did pick up 21 hp and 14lbs tq by putting on the reworked intake system
I do have a custom chip in it. A/F ratio on the last dyno run was high 12's. Valves are 2.02 and 1.6. I think the heads are 76cc chambers. Very low compression engine. Maybe a new set of heads would do me better even if they aren't ported and polished. Oh well, she runs good. It's not like I am going to be racing it or anything. Another thing is I am only getting 12 miles to the gallon and my readout on the dash says I am getting 17.
I did pick up 21 hp and 14lbs tq by putting on the reworked intake system
What is your base spark timing set at with the EST disconnected? 6 degrees BTDC is stock for a TPI. 12 mpg??? Are you driving it hard? Is your O2 sensor functioning and is your ECM going to closed loop mode after warm up?? You might want to double check the static compression ratio because it might be less than 9:1.
What is your base spark timing set at with the EST disconnected? 6 degrees BTDC is stock for a TPI. 12 mpg??? Are you driving it hard? Is your O2 sensor functioning and is your ECM going to closed loop mode after warm up?? You might want to double check the static compression ratio because it might be less than 9:1.
Well, 9 to 1 is a guess. Probably a very high guess. I have made sure that the static timing is 6 with the wire disconnected. According to the laptop it is going into closed loop. The O2 sensor is about a year old but I guess it can be bad. I have got on it a couple times to get scans for the chip tune and today there were 2 dyno pulls on it. Maybe I should run regular in it instead of the good stuff. Probably won't hurt anything at this point. Oh well, I guess I threw away the $1000 I have into this thing. Made a pretty good boat anchor.
I guess I will just drive it around and be done with it.
My next big hurdle will be if it passes smog or not.
Is that a Crane cam? (2032 or 2030)? Sounds like it, they are CA legal.
Pop off a valve cover and see what the last three digits on the casting number are, that would tell a lot.
Are you sure its truly a 383? Even if the heads are inadequate it should make a solid 40lbs more torque. Those are 350 #'s.
-Stock L98 here, 231 rwhp/324 tq.
Is that a Crane cam? (2032 or 2030)? Sounds like it, they are CA legal.
Pop off a valve cover and see what the last three digits on the casting number are, that would tell a lot.
Are you sure its truly a 383? Even if the heads are inadequate it should make a solid 40lbs more torque. Those are 350 #'s.
-Stock L98 here, 231 rwhp/324 tq.
Anxious to hear more.
Yes, I am sure it is a 383. My father-in-law is friends with the machine shop that built it. It had the huge harmonic balancer on it that I had to change so it would fit in the car. Had to put a balance plate between the crank and flywheel to balance the motor. I believe the casting numbers are 882. according to searches on the net they are 76cc chamber heads. 2.02" intake valves ported and polished. Dish pistons.
The cam is a Schneider cam, made locally. Non-roller.