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OK, I've had this project going 2 years. Mainly just buying parts and stocking up. I'm kinda lost on whats next for the rotating assembly (balancing). Here's what I've got. 1 4 bolt main lt1 block with arp main studs. New eagle steel crank, eagle H beam rods, mahle forged pistons, decent shape DM flywheel. I weighed the pistons and rods, from lightest to heaviest its about 2 gram difference. Would you balance it? Does the machine shop balance the flywheel with it? Is the harmonic nuetral like I've been told? It's not gonna see 7K rpm, is it worth it?
OK, I've had this project going 2 years. Mainly just buying parts and stocking up. I'm kinda lost on whats next for the rotating assembly (balancing). Here's what I've got. 1 4 bolt main lt1 block with arp main studs. New eagle steel crank, eagle H beam rods, mahle forged pistons, decent shape DM flywheel. I weighed the pistons and rods, from lightest to heaviest its about 2 gram difference. Would you balance it? Does the machine shop balance the flywheel with it? Is the harmonic nuetral like I've been told? It's not gonna see 7K rpm, is it worth it?
There is a bit more to it. You must have the rods off the pistons. Big ends must all weigh the same. All small ends must weigh the same. Pistons are usuall spot on as are wrist pins. If not, they need to be tweaked.
From: Charlotte NC, behind someone going 10 under the speed limit
It wouldn't hurt anything to balance it/them, i'd give the shop the flywheel and balancer too. sometimes they want to balance those too, just to cover their rears.
The crank, pistons, and all the other goodies need to be taken into consideration to get it right. Balancing a setup is not that expensive when compared to what time/money you will have in it if something is not right.
2 grams at 6k rpms is like a 10lbs! Our guy will not let anything over 1/2 gram go without tweaking.