Reason i posted this is i'm having some weird startup issues. Fire it up cold it runs good for about 2 seconds then it starts to choke up a little, smelly and missin and then smoothes out. Then start it up hot it cranks to long and sometimes when it fires up it runs like crap and smooths out then a code 36 burnoff diag. 1 out of 5 times it runs like crap on startup when hot.. when cold it runs like crap everytime. yes you say replace the rely. but i've done that and still silly start ups. Let me explain the condition of the motor and how it all started. I ported my stock pleunim,runners,base, air box. Injectors pretty new, IAC new, throttle body clean, TPS adjusted at .54, 180 therm, no Vac leaks, frisbee removal, 9th injector disable and crimped the line to insure 9th gets no fuel, I custom chip it with a 6e bin my self, stock motor for the most part, 98k on the motor, 700r trans shift kit, 3:54 rear no mufflers,soon getting mid america strait pipes. Car runs really good high 12's I just can't figure out this stuiped problem. i thought it was my Fuel Pressure but so far it's not, adjust to factory specs and my specs. Next thing i'm gonna try is pop my stocker chip in it. see if it runns any better. Reason i disabled my 9th injector is because it ran worse with it, plus 6e bin is much better the 32b at least when tunning. Before making my porting mod it fired up good. Yes some people said lean it out or added fuel on startup.via the chip. I've done that too with not prefect results. is there some wiring issues with the burnoff rely causing this, whats the comman cause you all think?. hummmmmmm eirther way i'll pop my stocker chip see how she starts up then that might help me figure out things. It might be my PE is to high in my chip? anyway any thing anyone has hook me up please. I hate it when i fire it up and it doesn't sound like a monster as it use too. . Oh i can also supply data logs if need be.



BTW anyone have my mods with good results in RPM's . I'm hitting about 55k anything over is nothing not happening.

 

I would try disconection the maf and see if it will run.

 

Why did you pull the 9th inj? I doesn't hurt anything.

 

I'll try the MAF unplug on startup once i try my chip first, witch i'll do today. So if it still runns like crap with it unplugged what does that mean?

Reason for disabling the ninth injector is I wanted to use the 6e bin, for the MAF/Fuel tables and it's a little better in the timing areas too. really brings out the life in your car. i still mod up my chip my self but it's more easy to use a 6e.

 

First-I hope you replaced both relays, power and burnoff, second, read the diagnosis section-very interesting-replace the FP relay, cause your
MAF gets its voltage through control of the FP relay.

 

First, I hope you replaced both relays, power and burnoff, second-read the diagnosis charts-very interesting-replace the FP relay, cause your MAF voltage is through control of the FP relay-while your at it check the wires going into the FP relay-the insulation shrinks back and bare wires come into contact with one another-I found it on mine-so have others.

 

ok cool well. i have a little list in place know to check for. I'll check the freebees first, then replace that maf power rely. so i should have replaced both at the same time, if i bought only one which i did and ran it (burnoff rely) will that burn out my new rely i just bought?

also you are saying i should buy a FP rely too? I'm kinda lost with the relys thing. i don't mind spend 30 bucks on relys. ok so you want me to buy burnoff(which i already have) maf power rely and a fp rely. And also trace the wiring right? I how far around did you trace the wiring as well?

The diag chart where can i get that and is it worth while if i'm gonna buy the three relys/ trace the wires?

I think you've got me in the right direction

 

ok heres what i found.... Wiring for the most part looks great i didn't look super deep but enough. I place my old burnoff rely back on the car and kinda started from the being. Still bad start up on random for the most part as i stated in the last post.. I didn't put my stock chip in yet. Then i unplugged my MAF sensor and start it up with it unplugged and i runs just like the way it does when i fire it like crap. i think my problem is the MAF. but will a bad MAF sensor casue a code 36? BTW i've de screened it in the past and modified my MAF tables. i guess descreening cut the life on it. But is there a asuring way to tell if it's really bad. I need to go out and get a Volt meter and a check my injectors anyway just in case. but i'll need a flow chart for some where can anyone help me please. is there a pdf on this site with flow charts for a 88 c4.


Thank you

 

Every book I've read says to replace BOTH relays-so that was a yes.
Since you obviously have a service manual-at least it sounds like it-read code 34 circuit discription-that is why I said to replace the FP relay! Also when I said check the wires to it, I was referring to where
the wires feed into the FP relay-the insulation does shrink there-

Here's the quote from code 34 of the FSM.

"The oil pressure switch or the ECM, through control of the fuel pump relay, will provide 12 volts for the MAF power relay which provides the
12 volts needed by the MAF sensor."

Not saying that is your problem-but a heckava lot cheaper than a MAF.
and if you're paying $30 for the relays you're paying to much-$15 item.

 

hey thanks for you help guys. I have to put this project on hold because my work just shipped me out to CA for some weeks (bastards). But i'll be sure to grab a service manual and start going throw the flow chart make sure i got a good idea in stead of running around.