The T56 idea will work thanks to a transmission to C-beam adapter that was located on the net. Using an auto C-beam with a T56/LS1 setup will push the motor further up. This is the swap I'm doing... going to use an LS7 clutch kit from Fred Beans.

 

I am still trying to figure that one out.

 

Who said I was going to remove it? Much like my previous 1991 truck that ran a carb instead of the TBI... I'll be leaving the ECM in place. I'll just find a new place to tuck the new PCM in where it won't be in the way. The PCM will the run the engine and the old ECM will just be hanging out allowing other things to continue to work.

I'm not fully sorted out by any means... but I'm not worried. I've been here before and beaten similar situations.

 

What others things will the OEM ECM still control. I thought of that too, or atleast get an Fbody ECM with 1991 Vette code, and bury it in the dash just to shut-up the CCm from complaining it is not there.. The MPG stuff will not work though.

I also thought of running the LSx motor using the 1991 ECM. I have an eDIST from F.A.S.T. that would fire the coils.

I just need the money for the Motor/ Trans, unless the ZF6 will be workable.

 

I anticipate losing the Mileage functions, but I should be able to connect the check engine light to the new pcm. I'm planning to adapt all the guage senders to the new engine so everything else should function. I'll trigger fans off the new PCM. Keeping the 700R4 won't screw up the VSS info so the speedo should work as well. I'm not sure on the tach yet. I'll be solving them all soon and will post the specifics.

 

On my 1992, the CCM provides data to the EBCM, the ABS/ASR computer.

It does the same on the 1991, just without the added excitement of the ASR.

 

That's a good point on the ABS tie-in. Shouln't be any issues there either as long as the stock ecm remains.

It might be possible to make a factory ecm run a LS1. I wouldn't try it though unless you just really had a lot of time ot work out bugs and issues. Having had a lot of experience working with the new LSx based programming, I recently swore off tuning the older chips.

Chips are such a pain when you can buy a program like HP Tuners for $500 and have a great datalogger and proggrammer that will allow you to tune without having the hassles associated with the chips. No soldering, no erasing, no bending chip pins... etc. The biggest benefit is taking advantage of all the increased tuning variables. Nearly every table has more resolution for the LSx based engine. An LSx based program file is close to 1Meg in size. Huge compared to the older chips. Another alternative is to get a drop in package with a Programmed PCM and wireharness from Nelson Performance. No muss - no fuss that way

In my opinion, even if the older ecm can run the engine... you'd be leaving a lot of performance and driveability on the table to go that route.

 

More forward progress last night...

Dropped out the 700R4 for fortification at Speed Secrets in Monroe WA. On the list of upgrades:

Customized shift kit from Speed Secrets
The Beast Sun Shell
5 pinion front and rear planetaries (stock was 4 pinions)
Billet 2nd and 4th Servos
Upgrade from 10 to 13 vane pump
Billet boost valves
Z-pack 3/4 clutches
And some other parts

Ellis might drop in to give some details or keep the Secrets... at his discretion!


Also got the bolts I needed to final install the oil pump, oil pickup, windage tray, and the Corvette oilpan last night. Decided to install the Crank pully for good measure as well.

If you don't have the right tools for alignment of the covers thsi can be a painful process. Fortunately, I was able to borrow those from a very good friend! Hint... if the front and rear covers are not aligned to the crank they will rub and leak. If the oil pan is bolted on to misaligned front and rear covers it is very possible that the oil pan will break when a 4L60 is bolted on (the bellhousing bolts to the oilpan with the later model 4L60's). As expensive as these oilpans are (mine was an Ebay score at $180 shipped) it pays to ensure it's done right.

I'll post pics of the items discussed soon!

 

I am not familiar with the cover alignment tools. Any chance you can
take a few pictures of them, possibly in position, before you return
them to the owner?

Thanks,
Ken R.

.

 

Ken the Alighment tool make the job seemless and easy. We bought them 7 Years ago.

The sticker on the Pan and cover plate has long dissappeared but the Crankshaft alighnment cover tooll is Kent-mOORE j-41476

While Cory was here today we desided to dump the 4L60 all together and go with a 97 4L60E This should make life much easier in the future

 

Thanks, Ellis

I didn't come up with a number for the pan alignment tool but here
is one for the Dealer Kit according to LS1NOVA over on LS1TECH.COM
I did come up with some individual numbers for items from the kit,
verify these before ordering!

• J41816 and J41816-2 - Kent-Moore tools to remove balancer
• J41665 - Re-install balancer
• J41665 - To press the sprocket on the crankshaft
• J41476 - To reinstall timing cover (as you mentioned)

If past experience is any indicator, the faint of heart and weak of
wallet really don't want to ask about the J43145 Dealer Kit.

.

 

this is moving along nicely!

I am going to add this thread to the tech faq to go with the other.

 

That's the idea. When I'm finished I'm planning to go back and edit this thread down to the bare minimum info posts so it is easier to get through without all the questions and side track conversations.

All the posts are nice and the sharing of information is great... but at the end of the day it's nice to have a more concise read that gives you what there is to know without all the cross-post chasing to get the information

In the meantime... lets keep this thread alive and near the top


Thanks for popping back in Ellis. Your comments are always appreciated!

 

Wow that seems like a really fancy upgrade. I'm just hoping on getting at least 300 HP out of my L98, thats all I need.

 

Nothing corrupts like absolute power!

I could have built a 450 horse L98. But the reality of a nasty naturally asperated L98 versus a LS1 making the same or similar power is like night and day. The L98 will not have close to the manners of the LS1. That's why I've chosen the path I have.

Sad to say but GM hasn't done very well with delivered power levels for most of the cars it sells. I want 400 horsepower minimum per vehicle in my garage. Only my CTSV came meeting that expectation. Ideally, 500+ would be long term goal. If you get it, you get it. If you don't, you don't.


So far, nothing has presented an insurmountable challenge on this project. I'm sure that, given time, I could figure out how to adapt the AC in if I really wanted. Considering I live in the NW and truly "hot" summer only lasts about a month... and I did this in a Convertible... you can see I'm not too hot after that part of the deal. LOL

 

I posted the pics of the tools in the first post. SORRY... but no action shots

I've also posted a couple of pics of upgrade transmission parts here for those interested:

http://community.webshots.com/album/547755062nOqmyH


With the decision to go to the 4L60E I get to dump a couple of "pain in the butt" issues of the 700R4:

1) I don't need to worry about adapting the TV cable. I will instead be using a engine vacuum referenced kit that works better and keeps line pressure up better than anything else. Speed Secrets employed it on my H2 and it will be used on my Vette as well. A stock 4L60E has line pressure settings controlled by computer programming. Works great for most people... but I don't want to fuss with it. The vacuum kit is the no fuss solution.

2) No hassles with the shift governor. Those who stay stock don't have issues here with the 700r4. However, once you move the RPM band of your engine up and need to shift higher its a pain trying to get the springs and weights right for what you want getting to 6800 (if that were the theoretical goal) without overshooting is hard. Mistakes can be expensive. Not to mention that you have to get under the car to change the settings. Not so with the 4L60E. Shift RPM and MPH are adjustable in the tuning via computer. No dirt under your nails and no transmission fluid showers!

3) Speedometer correction on the 4L60E can be tuned in the programing instead of doing the gear search and swap like the 700R4.


Theres nothing inherently wrong with keeping a 700R4... but the 4L60E just adds these and a few other nice features. Those listed are just the ones that annoy me the most!

 

retrofitting the AC is really quite simple - LT1 hoses will cover the most of the problem.

I will have to do it on my wifes 87. Here in SoCal, AC is needed...

 

Decided to take advantage of the holiday and place my order today.

I went with a YANK Super Street 3200 custom conversion convertor. Basically I have the front cover for a LS1 series engine and the rear cover to adapt to an LT1 era 4L60E. Should see it in a couple of weeks.

I decided a 3200 was the way to go because I love my Yank SC3000 truck convertor. Feels slightly softer than stock at cruise and tip in but good overall. Really lets the truck rip. The SS3200 in the car will be great, too.

 

Is that the sound of a few jaws hitting the floor?

Nice, very nice.

.

 

Yeah well i'm not too terribly worried about reaching that level of power. I want to keep my car as close to stock as possible with the upgrades reversible. If I dont get that much power, oh well, its still fun to drive the way it is.