I know this is relative, but typically how easy is the process to replace the valve cover gaskets on my '90, where can I get them and what tools are required(valve covers are leaking, I think both of em)? I'm thinkin on takin it down to my mechanic, but he says the manual shows 4.8 hours of labor(0.8 for one and 4 for the other). I know you gotta remove some units to get to one of em, either right or left which accounts for the time. I usually don't do bolt removing repairs myself on the engine simply out of preference. It just seems pretty gay for friggin gaskets to spend 2 and a half bills on a 1-2-3 tard application once all the blocking units are removed. I'm thinkin of just gettin a chiltons manual and doin it myself since I don't think I need any jacks. TiA.

 

Is your '90 an L98 or an LT1?

 

L98.

 

I would buy the right size tork bit for the EGR pipe.
Other than that nothing hard about it .Local auto parts store should carry gaskets.

 

He said I can't get at them just on open hood. What do I have to unbolt or remove to get at them for the near 5 hours its supposed to take?

 

The factory book I think calls for 1.2 hr on the pass side and drivers side .9 hrs of labor.The mechanic wants to take his time pulling the gasket off the valve cover,no sealent required.

 

I agree with everyone.

This is to give you a good idea of what to expect if you want to save some cash and do it yourself. It's not that difficult.. All you need are basic hand tools. I think it took me like 2 hours total taking my time.

Here is some pictures of my '86 for explenation purposes. I know the AC compressor is different on your '90. It does not get in the way of the early L98's to require it's removal. I don't know about yours though.

For the driver's side, the AIR pump (circled) is in the way. By simply loosening the lower braket bolts, you can slide the AIR Pump and alternator foward as one enough to clear the front lip of the valve cover, without removing them. Just slip off the serpetine belt from the AIR pump and alternator only. The fuel injector wiring harness can tend to get in the way too. You can just unplug it's wires leading to the sensors at the front and the fuel injectors, and swing the whole harness up and back towards the windshield. Remove that hard vaccum line under the injector harness.You just need to fish out the rear end of the valve cover from under the wiper motor to get it out. The brake booster line might give you a little trouble. That's about it for this side.


For the passanger side, the main thing in the way is the EGR pipe (Red arrow). Unbolt it from the exhaust and the intake manifold (torx bolts here). Remove one end of that rubber coolant line next to it and swing it out of the way. It also helps to unplug that injector harness, retreive the connectors, and swing the whole thing up and back for more room. The valve cover is clear for removal.


That's really it for mine. If I left anything out, someone please correct me. I've had mine off several times, and that's really all I did. I'm just going off memory here.

 

The only thing I would add is you will aslo need egr gaskets. I would take belt off, drain some anti freese, mark and remove plug wires from plugs and lift/pull out looms from supports, lossen 4 AC bolts on comp. enough for room for removal, spray pb blaster on torque screws on egr, start other side (by the time you go back to pass. side the pb will have boke the rust etc. down.
This would be a good time to replace egr or outer wrap if needed. Check all plug wires if on original looms ones in back of covers may be burned. Inspect PCV and hoses, etc.
The most time will be the learning curve and for the money this is a fairly easy DIY job. Take your time if you need a manual buy a helms not a chilton or whatever, pick a day where it does not need to be done fast, the first time will probably take at least a few of hours.

 

Thanks all for the feedback. Props on the visuals to 86pacer(looks close enough). Wicked lookin pol. alt/brackets btw. Job looks easy enough. Only prob I may have would be some of the bolts around the alt/air pump. I remember them being stubborn as hell.
To mseven, where can I get some EGR wrap? Will local parts places have egr gaskets and/or wraps? Also, what's pb blaster, a rust cleaner?

 

Most auto stores should have the gaskets, as to the heat wrap,
Summit sells it by the foot and it is sewn like stock in different sizes. Mid america, ecklers etc. also sell the same (pre-cut) for EGR. PB Blaster is probably the best rust penetrating oil (sray can), most auto stores carry it murray's auto zone, etc.

 

The newer air compressor, 88 and up, will need to be unbolted from the bracket and placed to the side. Don't disconnect it, just remove the four bolts that hold the compressor to the bracket. Removing the little plastic wheel well panel helps with this. The covers might just be loose. I would replace the gaskets, but a possible quick fix might be to tighten the bolts a little.

 

Come to think of it, I do remember trying to take off the valve covers about a year ago and remember removing side components, but the alternator bolts gave me trouble from the last moron using some type of screw glue on it for whatever reason, so I had my mechanic loosen it for something else anyway, but forgot about the valve covers being removed at the time.
What probably happened is it wasn't secured tight enough or the seal was disturbed in some way causing he leak, so yeah they probably were just loose. It warns of this on the new seals(gaskets) I just bought. I'm gonna install new ones since I've got em anyway. It warns of a specific OEM torque setting on the covers once the gaskets are installed.....It says overtorquing it could screw up the effectiveness of the gasket. How tight should they be?
Also, checked Checker and Autozone and neither of them claim to have any EGR gaskets for a '90 vette. Checked with a GM Motorsports performance shop and they still told me they didn't carry them which is some wierd sh**. The valve cov gaskets I got but from what they're telling me around town I'm guessing the only place to carry the EGR gaskets would be a local GM dealer at a Chevy dealership? Lucky me, I just got there at closing time to even ask them. I was told the parts dept wont be open 'til Monday.

 

There is a gasket that will work fine for the EGR. Just take the old one to the parts place and buy two. The same gasket or close to the same is used on a Chrysler or Ford or something. I don't remember exactly what it was, it's been a while, but there is one that will work from Autozone. The bolt hole spacing might have been off by a few millimeters, but it worked well.

 

Thanks man. I'll try it out.

 

I just did mine along with my exhaust manifold gaskets. It is rather time consuming, but not hard. At least it is time consuming for me. I just can't simply remove and replace. I have to clean, paint, and improve. My 85 doesn't have the same egr pipe that the later ones have, so I didn't have that problem. I agree with having to move the alt and air pump. This is probably the best job to tackle for a first timer just to "bond" with his car.

 

I just did the ones on my 90 vet twice the first time i put the old covers back on then bought new ones the same as the pics above and man they look great and i also added a set of comp cam roller rockers they made the car run alot smotter. As far as the gob goes it pretty easy just take your time and rember where everthing goes the hardest part for me was the belt untill i gor the right tool from napa for 40 dollars but good to have it now you never no when the belt well break.Good luke and have fun doing it and quetions just ask. :

 

and get a really strong torx bit or one with a lifetime warranty i twisted and broke mine off in the bolt . i got the thick metal reinforced rubber gaskets autozone had and no problems since except now my oil cap leaks

btw not a hard job and it's a good time to clean them up real well

 

1/2" DRIVE long handle ratchet or 1/2" breaker bar costs the same or less, and can be used it for alot more than just a belt.