I recently relocated my battery to the right rear storage compartment. Mainly I did it in a never-ending quest for more forward traction but it also helps to get the car closer to that perfect 50-50 weight distribution. It's really not a big deal but done right, it takes a little time and attention to detail. I had no desire to run the positive cable through the interior so I routed it along and behind the right side rocker panel. I encased it within 5/8" silicone heater hose and used cushion clamps to bolt it to the three studs which also secure the fuel lines. In between these clamps I didn't spare the heavy-duty, thick tie-wraps. In the front, I used another cushion clamp secured by a short bracket from one of the monting studs for the HVAC motor and dropped the cable down over the top of and inside of the header, securing it to the tranny cooler lines and wrapping everything in heat-proof material in this area. Then I brought it up from the bottom and front of the starter up to the main stud on the starter, much like stock. In the rear, I made an appropriate sized hole in the bottom of the storage compartment, ahead of the battery in the raised area in front of it. I still had the cable encased in the heater hose where it comes through the body and through a grommet. I sealed it all with a little silicone. BTW, the radio receiver was originally in this compartment and it had to go, needless to say. There's plenty of room for it in the left side compartment where the ABS/ASR is. If you're creative and patient, there's even enough wire to move it over there w/o splicing. This will involve some digging and unwrapping of harnesses to achieve. Then when you have it all situated, you can wrap it back up and secure it as needed. The negative cable, I didn't mind running through the interior and under the carpet. It fit nicely, running along the floor, up against the console on the passenger side. There's even a neat and handy hole in the rear upright panel that's left over from where the radio wires used to run into that compartment that I ran the cable through. In the front, I ran it back to the out to the underside, just where the floorboard begins to turn up to the firewall. Again I used a grommet that fit the cable nicely, drilled an appropriate hole and sealed everything up. This is all under the carpeting and doesn't show at all when finished, done right. I bolted the terminal of the ground cable directly to the outer starter mounting bolt. At this time I have also left the original positive battery cable in place and hooked to the starter. This is because there are main power leads hooked to it near the original battery location. Of course I insulated the original battery terminal on it and secured it in place. At a later time I'll be adding a remote solenoid for the starter, reducing the number of wires needed down there. The main power leads can then be hooked to it as well. There's always more!
BTW, I used 2 ga. cable with HD crimped ends and I also flowed solder into them after crimping. I also used shrink-wrap to protect the connections long term. The devil is in the details.
18' of cable and ends, about $30 at my cost. Everything else I had on hand. I also had to get a smaller battery to get it as low as possible in that compartment. This allowed me to still use the little storage tray there. I used a group 26 top post which is equivalent in dimensions to a group 70 side post. This is an inch shorter in length than the factory group 75 battery. I chose a top post because it's easier to access the connections down in that cubby-hole. I have the battery protected with foam right now and still need to build a proper hold-down for it.

 

Very nice detailed write up--- pixs?
This is #2 on the spring list.

 

Obviously, you're rather new here. Otherwise, you'd know better than to ask me for pix. You'll just have to visualize. You see, it's not my fault. If all of you ***** would quit putting stuff in the F/S section that I just can't resist, well then maybe someday I could afford a digital camera. So it's all y'alls' fault, not mine!

 

At least it sounds like you did a nice job. Ive been wanting to do it to mine for a while. I'm going to the track after I get the new clutch pack in my posi and if it does not hook, the battery will become a priority.
Oh yea, you said *****. That means you have been hanging out in OT too much.

 

Moi?

 

For whats its worth I did a cut-n-paste and printed your write up. And in the spring I will pull out your painfuly detailed page and sit next to the my vette and try with my 50-ish IQ brain too picture how you did it ( I mite even try to visualize you doing it)--- thanks for the write up -- with forum members like you some day my vette will look and run like your's---"Thanks again"-- WHO NEEDS PIXS!!
PS-- I may tend to hang out in O/T because I don't know enough about my vette (yet), but I do read every post in C4-- T/P and G/D trying too learn.