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Im sure this question has come up a few times but I couldnt find a post on "under hood temperatures". ......... I also have TPIS coated headers and Dart Pro alum heads. After the car has warmed up I will sometimes open the hood only to find that it is as hot as an oven. ........... Is there anything I can do to bring the temp down in the engine bay?
I can't quantify it, but I do know my underhood temps are much higher after installation of the long tube headers........IMHO even with everything running properly the underhood temps go way up with long tube headers...I have been considering doing something to reduce temps.........not sure what....
I dont get it? He has coated TPIS. My ceramic coated Hookers with freeflow exhaust run cooler than the stock manifolds. I can actually touch them within 20 minutes or so after driving. They run so cool I'm considering a heated o2 sensor. Then again, I'm still just basicly a stock L98 lightly modded with a little juice.
I just cant help but believe there's something up with the tune. I just dont think it's all the headers fault if they're coated with a high flow cat.
By the way PMARTINEZ92126, you do have a good flowing cat, right? If you have an older/clogged stock cat, they can cause heat issues as well as poor performance.
I just cant help but believe there's something up with the tune. I just dont think it's all the headers fault if they're coated with a high flow cat.
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A bad tune can certainly make it much worse.......but I just believe my unhood temps are definitely up since I installed the EM coated long tube headers....new high flow cats...
A bad tune can certainly make it much worse.......but I just believe my unhood temps are definitely up since I installed the EM coated long tube headers....new high flow cats...
Maybe so. It just seems weird to me as the stock manifolds are basically shorty headers with a heat sheild that is only designed to keep the plug wires and whatnot from burning if touched. Then you have the restrictive pre-cats that are eliminated with long tubes. The whole set up is more restrictive. Which is why Headers and elimination of pre-cats causes such good gains. Less restriction should theoretically mean less heat. No? I know uncoated headers run warmer, which is still puzzleing to me, as they are less restrictive. I wish someone would explain the science of why to me.
Guess I'm glad I went with ceramic coated Hooker super comps that are coated inside and out. Maybe thats the difference. I'm not sure, I just know mine run surpisingly cool.
A bad tune can certainly make it much worse.......but I just believe my unhood temps are definitely up since I installed the EM coated long tube headers....new high flow cats...
A retune is , IMHO a necessary thing after putting in long tube headers. Do a scan and see you are running different after the headers.
A retune is , IMHO a necessary thing after putting in long tube headers. Do a scan and see you are running different after the headers.
Mine was dyno tuned by PCMforLess after the headers/free flow cats were installed...... still seems like it is hotter under the hood....PLUS I HAVE watched it with Autotap....
i will check the timing tonight. I also have one of those laser heat testing guns. You can point it at a source and it will tell you the temp of the part. Is there a way to check to see if the Cat is clogged? I do remember smelling gas after I started the car. That went away after I changed out my FPR. The diaphram was shot. At idle the car will run about 198 degrees with the temp outside being 68 degrees. I have a 160 t-stat in the car. I have a Stewart pump with a regular Radiator.
Is there a way to check to see if the Cat is clogged?
I found this advise from a google search....
To test for a plugged converter, drill a small hole in the exhaust pipe right before the catalytic converter. Install a temporary hose fitting and attach a long rubber hose and a 0 to 10 pound pressure gauge. With the gauge inside the car, drive up a hill or accelerate and read the pressure. Normal is 2 to 3 pounds, restricted 4 pounds or higher. The drawback to this method is the small hole will need to be welded shut after the test; a minor job if you have a welder.
You can use your thermo gun to test the cats, get the car warmed up as much as possable, the hotter you can get the cats the better, take a reading before the cat,and after, if they are close to the same then it's working, if not then it's plugged or plugging. The hard part is to get the car up in the air before the cats start cooling off.
This little gun has a laser so Im thinking i might be able lay on the ground and shoot the front and back of the cat with the laser while the car is running. Hopefully I wont get burned or run over. I will do it this Saturday. Thanks for the Help.
From: Tucson, AZ. L98-85 AUTO COUPE: 120k MILES: daily driver. SOUND OFF IF YOU'VE BEEN THERE. Ex-Jumpin' Junky-82nd Airborne-2/505 PIR: 1st ID-1/16th Inf: Recon Marine Retread. GOD BLESS GRUNTS.
those hood vents have to be a good thing. they take air passing under the car-that could make the front end light-pass it around the motor and push it onto the top of the car-to help push the front end down.
take a look at a lot of BIG buck cars(like the new ford gt, saleen etc.), and they have the same set-up. i'm seriously considering going for the louvers. true, water drainage is an issue, but it shouldn't be accomplished at the cost of flow. has anybody seen how the supercars handle the drainage issue?
i'm taking a look right now. but if i remember past considerations, TALK ABOUT A CORVETTE TAX.
I checked the temperature of my CAT using a Matco LT1000 heat gun. The temperature right before the CAT was roughly 240 F. and the Temperature after the CAT was roughly 450 F. I did the test several times. I also checked to make sure the coolant gauge was accurate and it was to off about 3 degrees from what the Heat gun told me so Im assuming the gun is fine. My timing was definitely off. It was advanced by 4-6 degrees so I changed it back to 6 degree before BTC. The coolant reading was 186 degrees after it had been idlling for 15 minutes. Why would the cat temperature be so different on the way in as opposed to the way out? I did have a bad AFPR that was leaking fuel in the plenum. I guess the fuel was being sucked into the plenum. I saw a little discoloration fuel trail on the inside of the plenum where the fuel had been sucked in. The AFPR had been bad for some time.
From: Beautiful Down Town "SWINDLEHURST" Long Island NY
Originally Posted by parafrog
those hood vents have to be a good thing. they take air passing under the car-that could make the front end light-pass it around the motor and push it onto the top of the car-to help push the front end down.
take a look at a lot of BIG buck cars(like the new ford gt, saleen etc.), and they have the same set-up. i'm seriously considering going for the louvers. true, water drainage is an issue, but it shouldn't be accomplished at the cost of flow. has anybody seen how the supercars handle the drainage issue?
i'm taking a look right now. but if i remember past considerations, TALK ABOUT A CORVETTE TAX.
frog.
On the 84 the louvers are mounted over the front half of the wheel houses.I dont know about pushing air out, but they bleed out any high pressure (hot air) that would make the front end light. Before the louvers were installed, when the fan kicked on I could feel hot air at the gills and the base of the wind shield ( I cut back the hood gasket sans over the dist.) Now with the louvers when I sit at a light I can see heat waves coming out them, when the fan is on I make toast . My only problem is the hood ducting is open, when you look into the louvers you can see in the ducts. A small piece of sheet alum. in the spring will fix that.
When I first got the vette any thing over 100mph-( on my local closed track )felt very unstable. Now with the louvers and the new "Z-51"-ish chin spoiler ( 3" ground clearance-no more fast food joints ) Its rock solid at speed ( 11.66 squared) And no cooling problems. :
PS---I looked at your profile--101st-5th. Div. out of "Dodge City" Here--:
Last edited by RICEKILA; Feb 26, 2006 at 06:15 PM.