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Need to R&R my front tie-rods. Have never used a "pickle fork" before and was hoping someone here can give me some pointers on how to use one so I don't tear apart alot of aluminum. Also,how is the rubber boot held on with the new ones? Thanks!!
Find a fork that is made out of aluminum, they are hard to find but worth it. Hard steel of most pickle forks against aluminum is usually bad. Good luck....
Find a fork that is made out of aluminum, they are hard to find but worth it. Hard steel of most pickle forks against aluminum is usually bad. Good luck....
It's all in how you position it. I've done them with a standard fork with no ill effects, just make sure the fork is positioned where the force pushes up on the tie rod end instead of down on the knuckle.
Position it, and tap it with a hammer....start with light taps, and use only as much force as you need.
Forget the pickle fork. Reinstall the nut, upside down, with the castles, in. Position the end of the nut flush with the end of the ball stud. Give the steering arm a couple of good sharp raps on the side with a hammer. You can use a heavier hammer on the other side of the steering arm as a back up. If that didn't loosen it, one maybe two raps, straight down on the nut/ball stud will pop it out. A screwdriver or pry bar exerting a separating force can help too. This works equally as well on the ball joints, too.
I use the OTC7503 and wouldn't do it any other way. Doesn't tear up anything including boots. Pickle fork will tear up boots. No problem if you are replacing the rod ends, but if taking apart for other purposes, then it's a bad thing.
Forget the pickle fork. Reinstall the nut, upside down, with the castles, in. Position the end of the nut flush with the end of the ball stud. Give the steering arm a couple of good sharp raps on the side with a hammer. You can use a heavier hammer on the other side of the steering arm as a back up. If that didn't loosen it, one maybe two raps, straight down on the nut/ball stud will pop it out. A screwdriver or pry bar exerting a separating force can help too. This works equally as well on the ball joints, too.
RACE ON!!!
I had no luck with that procedure, maybe because I had no room to swing a hammer in there...
I had good luck with an arm puller (which Slalom4me posted) on the lower ball joint, and the fork on the upper one and tie rod end. The fork did completely ruin the boots on those joints and tie rod ends, but I was replacing them all, so it wasn't a concern.
I don't understand why there is more room under my car than yours. I was working in the driveway, on jack stands. I've used that method on all four ball joints and all four tie rod ends on my car, plus others, with great success. Quicker, cleaner, and cheaper.
I don't understand why there is more room under my car than yours. I was working in the driveway, on jack stands. I've used that method on all four ball joints and all four tie rod ends on my car, plus others, with great success. Quicker, cleaner, and cheaper.
RACE ON!!!
That is how I do it in the shop and how I teach the students to remove them.
Youll find the tie rod ends usually pop out easier than ball joints.I too used a hammer on some cars with the castle nuts installed and gave it a good whack and it came right out.Just hope your tie rod isnt seized up on the innter tie rod stud.You can use a 2 jaw puller as well top pop out tie rods but the hammer trick has never let me down.
I had one tie rod that popped out of the knuckle easily,but would not twist off the inner tie rod of the rack so I left it on there and took the rack out of the car and gave the core back with the tie rod stuck to it.(I was doing a rack change and one side must have rusted-weld itself shut to it)
Since I'm replacing the outer tie-rods ends,I'll try the hammer on the castle nut and see how it goes. Would love to use the puller Slalom4me shows but can't see buying a tool I'll only use maybe one time. Thanks again guys!!
Specialty tools like these are often available from tool rental firms.
Sometimes the rates are reasonable, sometimes not.
Hertz has a prominent place in my part of the world but there are a
number of independents. South of the 49th, I understand that Pep
Boys, Autozone and others have loaner programs - while they probably
offer the pickle fork, it never hurts to ask whether there is a puller.
Also, while I listed the OTC items, Old Forge, Tool Aid and others often
offer the same tool or a knock-off - made either domestically or off-shore.
Finally, the right-sized pickle fork in skilled hands can do the job with
no issues. A poorly made or ill-fitting puller can be a pain.
myblue91: Get a tool to do this without hitting your car with a hammer Usually, Auto Zone will loan you such a tool for a deposit. I bought a tool for this some years ago and all my friends call me when they have a need for it. The tool is easy to use and does not damage your car/parts.
SAM
I used to give a good couple wails on steel parts. Works great.
With aluminum. I'm not a kid anymore. I'll be getting the proper tool.
This is not jackass auto repair.
I find working with the aluminum parts is easier. Aluminum responds well to heat. I use an electric heat gun on the aluminum and a few light taps with a mallet on the reversed nut. You don't need alot of heat. The aluminum bore will expand faster than the steel shank of a tie rod or ball joint. I've used this method several times and never had a ball joint or tie rod end that didn't pop out with a few light taps.