Your pump is causing the overload and blowing the fuse.(seized) Here is the link to the ac delco one i bought. He's pretty quick with shipping and the best price iv'e found. Comes with new sock also.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/NEW-AC-DELCO-FUEL...QQcmdZViewItem

 

A bad motor can overload the circuit.

 

For a TPI/EFI engine,always have a FP gauge.If not go buy one.Its the fastest way to determine if you got adequate pressure.Even if fuel does or does not spray out the valve on the test youve done,it wont tell you everything.I had a efi car with a bad miss and stalling.Hooked up the FP gauge and it would not go over 25 psi on the gauge.It still had gas in the rails but the pressure was supposed to be closer to 40 psi.So it ran some but pushing the schrader valve for gas isnt going to tell you anything if it sprays out some or not.Your car should have 35-40 psi in the rail.

Get the right tools for now and future tests.

 

I got an AC-Delco stock replacement fuel pump from Kragen when mine went bad about a year ago. Came in an AC-Delco box. Call your local Kragen/Checker and see if they still sell the AC-Delco pump.

Be sure to get a few o-rings for the sender plate bolts and sender gasket from the dealer. You may not need the o-rings, but if you tear the gasket or o-rings removing the sender plate assembly you won't have to make a trip to get replacements. About $15 for the gasket and 40 cents for the o-rings. Make sure you put the gasket on with the notch in the upper right corner as you face the tank from above.

 

Can any one tell me why the new relay I bought wouldn't send power to my fuse and the jumper wire will. After I install the new fuel pump should the relay work then? Thanks

 

Your going to have to do some diagnosis. Read this again if you haven't already. http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/Fu...mDiagnosis.pdf
It describes the chain of events that happen, to make the pump run. Two things power the fuel pump. The ecm energizing the relay and the oil pressure switch. There should be an electrical schematic in all the info i uploaded. Use it an test all the wiring involved, it should be very straigt forward.
Good luck

 

I lied, i just uploaded the electrical schematic now
http://members.shaw.ca/agent86/Fuel%...20Delivery.pdf

 

Something is wrong with the circuit from the ECM to the relay.

Put a test light on that grn/wht wire and see if it comes on for about 2 sec when you turn the key on.

 

Hey, the green/white wire does light up for about 2 sec. when the key is turned on. Any other suggestions

 

Put the new pump in and start it up

 

in-tank pumps are good for 100k miles or 10 years, whichever comes first....even if your pump is still working and its over 100/10 you're due for trouble real soon...its cheaper and much more convenient to replace the pump now rather than get towed ....btdt several times

 

Of course everyone is aware of the repair history of their 10 year old, plus, C4. By that reasoning, you'd better replace the engine, transmission, etc, while your doing the pump.

RACE ON!!!

 

CFI, do I detect a little humor-you've been awefully gentle lately

 

I've tried to pull in my horns, a little bit lately, but I STILL get jumped on for saying "Hello".

RACE ON!!!

 

I know all too much about C4 troubles

 

not reasoning--experience

you can lead a horse to water but you can't make him drink--especially if you're working with the wrong end of the horse

 

Then that must be the "wrong end" that you are presenting, here and now. It IS becoming more apparent. Then your reaso (oops) experience tells you that all moving or wearing parts on 10 year old cars need to be replaced? Since it is experience rather than reasoning, just how many 10+ year old cars have you replaced all the moving parts, untested, on? Maybe experience has taught you that all 1996 and older cars are throw a ways? YOU don't leave any doubt as to which end of the horse you are representing.

RACE ON!!!

 

See what I mean???

RACE ON!!!

 

I would put a new relay in with the new pump

 

easy guy