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I have posted about my problem with my upper control arm touching the inside of my new wheel (pasenger side).
The majority of people have stated that I need to find whatever is bent, because there must be something bent to cause the uneven between the left and right suspensions.
I have the front of the car of stands right now and have removed both wheels.
I have measured and tested all things that could possibly bend in the wheel well and I have found nothing.
The one thing that stood out between the driverside and passenger side was the noticeable difference in the upper ball joints. On the passenger side, the side that is causing the problems, there is a noticeable difference in the gap between the upper control arm and the knuckle. I have not been able to measure the movement in the wheel, because I do not have a dial indicator set, yet.
So my untested conclusion is that the ball joints in the passenger side wheel well are in bad shape and causing the problem,
Have you .... ah ..... hit anything with that wheel recently or rather with the old wheel prior to putting on the new ones?
I havent been in an accident, as far as hitting a pot hole or something along that line, nothing really sticks out. But I have only had the car for about 8 months and the old shocks I just took off were pretty beat up so what was not a serious bump could have caused more damage than thought.
But I have checked everything, in the wheel well, upper and lower control arms, the knuckle and the stabilizer bar all seem to be symmetric with the driver side and no bending.
I have pics under my signature. Those are of the passenger side which is the one I am having trouble with.
From looking at the picture it APPEARS as if the gap between the contol arm and the spindle is excessive. On the other hand, it looks as if the upper ball joint is the factory unit, i.e. it looks riveted, not bolted as a replacement would be to the control arm. I'd measure differnce between left and right sides to compare. Nothing says the factory didn't get a similar but wrong part from the vendor that fit. FWIW.
Yes they have the rivets still on. I have measured both sides and the difference is over 1/4 of an inch.
Do I need a ball joint removal tool for this job or can I do the job with normal mechanic tools and no special equipment. I have ordered the parts but Madvet says that they are out of stock of the ball joint removal tool. I also ordered some urethane bushing so while I was down there I would replace all 4 ball joint and the bushings.
Covette front upper ball joints are riveted on. The replacements bolt in place. You remove the upper ball joints by grinding off the rivet heads and driving out the rivets with a drift and sledgehammer. Its crude but thats how its done.
there is something about the trailing end of that upper control arm that looks funny...
I just now went down and checked it out again, can you specify? I looked at it in every angle I could squeeze my grape into the wheel well and it looks like the one on the driverside.
FWIW, I believe is Mid America sells upper control arms with new ball-joints in place for just a little over the price of a new ball joint. This would replace the possibility of a messed up control arm and a messed up ball joint all in one shot.
I wish I was near my vette so I could go look at it. But that gap between the bearing assembly and the upper control arm does not look right at all. Does the other side have a gap like that?
FWIW, I believe is Mid America sells upper control arms with new ball-joints in place for just a little over the price of a new ball joint. This would replace the possibility of a messed up control arm and a messed up ball joint all in one shot.
I wish I was near my vette so I could go look at it. But that gap between the bearing assembly and the upper control arm does not look right at all. Does the other side have a gap like that?
Nope I checked it out, upper control arm with ball joint already in is 350.00 4 ball joints 2 upper, 2 lower is 130.00.
I got the arm off and am pounding the hell out of the revet pins but they ARE NOT moving. I drill one of them out but I slightly drilled into the upper arm about a millimeter or so, doesnt look to be a big deal. Tomorrow I am going to take the arm to a shop that can take the pins out without causing any more damage.
I will just have to cough up the dough to pay for that to be done and I can do the rest after that.
But to answer your question no I think there was a little over a 1/4 inch difference between them.
That sucks on the control arms. I want to say they used to be for around $120-150 an upper arm. And then Moog ball joints are about 65$ a pop. But obviously they caught on to that being a good deal....
I just hope you aren't going through all this work to find out you have a bad a-arm in the end... good luck!
Keep us updated.
One other suggestion for you to try. Mount the passenger front to the drivers side and the drivers to the passenger. Don't worry about directional tires at this point. With this done do you still have the clearance problem on the driver side of the suspension?
Yes I have tried this and I have also tried to put the original wheels back on, those will not go either, it seems it is the suspension and not the wheels.
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