C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Boiling coolant.....

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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 01:06 AM
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Default Boiling coolant.....

I know that this tread has come a lot and I have checked almost all of them.
My car is running hot, traffic and highway. Radiators have been cleaned, used good coolant with water at the proportions suggested by manufacturer.
125-130 degrees farenheight seems to be usual. ( 109 -120 degrees celsius.

When I shut the car I can hear boiling water. Fans do come on, could boiling water be caused by the coolant having a low boiling point, just like water?
What brand would you recomend? Suggestions to keep temperatures lower please!

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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 01:23 AM
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Sounds like your car needs burped.Buy pre mixed coolant and do not add water to it.Water Wetter may help it cool better.
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 01:33 AM
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Mine does this quite often too. What do you mean by "burping" it? Is there air in the hoses or something?
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 01:41 AM
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Originally Posted by GIJoe
Mine does this quite often too. What do you mean by "burping" it? Is there air in the hoses or something?
Yep C4s are notorious for it that is why they have bleeder valves.Check your factory service manual.
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 02:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Kinkajou
I know that this tread has come a lot and I have checked almost all of them.
My car is running hot, traffic and highway. Radiators have been cleaned, used good coolant with water at the proportions suggested by manufacturer.
125-130 degrees farenheight seems to be usual. ( 109 -120 degrees celsius.

When I shut the car I can hear boiling water. Fans do come on, could boiling water be caused by the coolant having a low boiling point, just like water?
What brand would you recomend? Suggestions to keep temperatures lower please!

Do you mean 225-230 F? Although that's not alarming, a little cooler would be nice. What you're probably hearing is water going into the overflow, which is normal. As it cools, it'll be drawn back into the system as needed. When you shut an engine off, it actually gains temperature for a brief period because the coolant has stopped circulating. Have you done a thorough flush of the entire system? And when you say the radiators(?) have been cleaned, do you mean internally, externally or both? With the proper mix of coolant and the correct pressure in the system, your boiling point should be high enough to deal with this. You have checked the cap to see if it's holding the right pressure, haven't you? And yes, as already mentioned, make sure the system is air free. Air pockets create hot spots which not only cause cooling problems but also allow rust and other contaminants to form. BTW, you didn't mention the year of your car.
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 03:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Kinkajou
My car is running hot, traffic and highway.
109 oC is fine. 120 is too high.

Most likely cause is loose or faulty pressure cap, or a leak.

Water, BTW, has a higher boiling point than antifreeze.
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 03:05 AM
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his is an LT1...

on the LT1, there are two bleed screws. The best one is on top of the tstat housing. Start the engine, let it heat, and open the screw a little. If there is air, it will get out.

And yes, 225 is actually a "normal" temperature.

Oh, and resist the desire to install a lower temp t-stat. It is not a cooling device, it is a heating device.

I agree, though, with the use of Water Wetter! That stuff WORKS!

I use a mix of 70% water, 30% coolant, for the most part, with a bottle of Water Wetter (made by Red Line). The cooling system is stock, and with the climate control on (which is pretty much all the time here in SoCal - the traffic makes the air icky after a while) and the temps stay between 195 and 200. No problemo.

FYI - when using the climate control, the fans come on everytime the compressor cycles.
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 03:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Vis Croceus
109 oC is fine. 120 is too high.

Most likely cause is loose or faulty pressure cap, or a leak.

Water, BTW, has a higher boiling point than antifreeze.
Water has much better cooling properties than antifreeze, but antifreeze (Eth gylcol, Pol Gylcol) has a much higher (almost twice over)boiling point than water......this is why the right mixture of antifreeze and water will give the great cooling properties of water, but will also have a super low freezing point, and a super high boiling point(best of both).........I run nothing but 100% distilled water and a bottle of redline water wetter for it's lubricating anticorosive properties.......It's in the 90's all summer down here and the water never boils.......put a new 16LB cap(or higher)...boil your thrermostat with a temp gauge to make sure it's working correctly(new"or" old) sometimes brand new ones don't work right......and as other have mentioned get the car up to operating temps(thermostat open) loosen the airbleed screw near the thermostat housing till a streem of water flows out, then top off you overflow.......

Last edited by 95NOSvette; Feb 26, 2006 at 03:47 AM.
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 03:49 AM
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Originally Posted by bogus
the traffic makes the air icky after a while
"icky" Just had to..haven't heard "icky" in a loooong time.
He may also want to replace his rad cap. The "boiling" noise may just be the expanding coolant blowing past his cap into the overflow. If the spring is weak it will let this go on for longer than it should.
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 03:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 95NOSvette
Water has much better cooling properties than antifreeze, but antifreeze (Eth gylcol, Pol Gylcol) has a much higher (almost twice over)boiling point than water.....
Oops you're right. Brain fart. Thinking about specific heat...
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 03:56 AM
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Yea I get confused with it too.......raising boiling points, raising freezing points, anti boil
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 04:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Morley
"icky" Just had to..haven't heard "icky" in a loooong time.
He may also want to replace his rad cap. The "boiling" noise may just be the expanding coolant blowing past his cap into the overflow. If the spring is weak it will let this go on for longer than it should.
I agree that the cap is the best first check.... it's also cheap!

eh... icky is a cleaner version of the "S" word that I really wanted to use.
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by bogus
I agree that the cap is the best first check.... it's also cheap!
.

If it is bubbling in the overflow tank this is the obvious check.If it is bubbling in the engine hoses than burp it.
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 03:16 PM
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Yup. You need to burp that ****. Check your FSM or owner's manual and open the thermostat bleeder valves, but be careful of the one that's near the Opti. You don't water to leak out on it.
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 03:43 PM
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Mostly the pressure keeps it from boiling, which is why the radiator cap is rated like it is. If you have air in the system, it won't pressurize enough as it heats up, and it can boil. This is a problem not because of the temperature, but because water vapor pockets will occur in the heads and block coolant flow and heat transfer.


Boiling point of the coolant mix should be about 105*C at amospheric pressure, and 125*C at 14psi.
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 07:48 PM
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Ok, I checked the boiling water sound and this is coming from the overflow tank. The sistem has been burped using the two screws and coolant escaped inmediately, no air. What is strange is that the hoses that go to the radiator feel like they are pressurized with air!

The vette is a 94 with a ZF6, and the sistem has been flushed entirely, even took the knock sensors to get the last drop off coolant out.
The radiators cleaned thoroughly (the first one seems to be used for the air condition, at the back is for the cooling sistem and a little bit lower there seems to be a little radiator for the oil.

Just intrigued by this.
I am planing on installing little fans to extract the hot air faster from the engine bay.
Maybe this will help a little.
There has been some electric superchargers ( which will not work as superchargers because they can not pressurize the air into the manifold), that are sold at ebay. This little electric motors with a fan are intended to be used in small rooms that get smoke inside and they remove this very rapidly.
Maybe this can work because they are capable of replacing the hot air with fresh air at an incredible rate.

Has someone tried something like this?
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 08:33 PM
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To purge system...


Remove rad cap.

Start car and let idle until it reaches tstat temperature.

Top off radiator with coolant.

Hold throttle open to ~2000 rpm.

While holding it open, top off radiator, and put rad cap on.

Fill overflow tank to the brim.




After one fully hot run and full cool down, the system should be good to go. If water overflows the first time it gets hot, don't worry about it, thats normal since it was overfilled on purpose. Technically you should never fill by the radiator unless youre flushing the system or let the overflow run dry. Only top off coolant by adding to the overflow tank.
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To Boiling coolant.....

Old Feb 28, 2006 | 10:25 PM
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Spent the first summer in Arizona with my '87. Asked a local what to do. It get's up to 120 here, as most know. This is when I learned that water is a better coolant than ethel glycol. He suggested dropping to a 10% ratio and it worked. Temp held in the 225 range. Stop and go traffic the worst. Any place to put in an aux. fan or tried an over ride switch on the current fan? Oh, the water thinner is universally praised here.
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 10:38 PM
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Seems like spitting in the wind. Would be more effective to just paint entire engine black -- valve covers especially. This is an old racing trick. This aint gonna happen to our beauties. Would listen to all the other good advice here. If none of it works, it may be time to get out the wrenches. If you are not losing water, it is most likely your cooling system or your driving -- traffic -- that is. If those jerks would just get out of our way...
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 10:46 PM
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Where is the second bleeder
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