Need help. Got stranded tonight.
After getting the car towed and haven't paid that fee yet but once home I noticed the upper radiator hose had a drip. My question is I'm confused between the front upper and rear upper radiator hose's? It looks like the upper hose has a splitter in it. It's the hose that goes over the belts. Thanks.
The paperclip code (blink,blink,blink) pause
(blink,blink,blink,blink,blink,blink)
It blinked 3 times then paused for a second then blinked 6 times.
Last edited by slicked25; Mar 4, 2006 at 03:54 AM.
Was the white cloud coming from the exhaust?(possible headgasket) or from the engine compartment?(consistant with your observation of a split hose).
a MAF code, can be as simple as a relay or something a little more complex-hope you have the FSM.If you do have MAF, start by checking the connections to relays, Maf etc.
Last edited by rick lambert; Mar 4, 2006 at 11:46 AM.

But after I hooked the hose up, I cranked and let it worm up then made a couple of blocks with no problems. Yes, antifreeze sprayed all over the belts as well as the opti I believe. So what should I expect after makeing a couple of blocks?
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The smoke was probably coming from the coolant on your exhaust coming from under the car out the back.
Last edited by Redeasysport; Mar 5, 2006 at 12:55 AM.
How much does the opti cost? Can I install or is it better to take it to the pro's? I'm so pissed right now I can't even think.
I guess it's better that It happend in the driveway v's Interstate.
Now our beloved GenI optis have a spline with a key in it where 2 of the ridges are ground down.It is important to take the spline out of the old one and find the orientation of where that key fits.It should slide in and out very easily then orient the new one to as close as you can get it to that angle and try to slide it in DO NOT PUSH HARD it should slip in when it is aligned properly.It can be shoved in off position this is the the most common reason for no starts after install.Do everthing in reverse and fire the engine before installing the water pump to be sure you did not do the above.
Now the price The opti is ~$300 and most people do the water pump at this time it is~$150.When you pull the WP look at the weep hole at the bottom I bet you will find some leakage.The wires and plugs are a lot easier to do now too so bite the bullet and get them too.
I put a Dynaspark in mine and it is water proof.I also have done a 93 opti conversion that is posted in my pics that will be better than stock if your inclined to go that way but it cost me only $100 less than the Dynaspark to do that.The Dynaspark is $599.Msd just came out with one too but I can't say much about it it is too new and is a little cheaper.
If you take it to the Pros it is going to cost around $1200
It is not that hard really but you will need a good torque wrench and good socket set.you can do it I am sure.If you need any advice when you do it feel free to PM me I spend lots of time here in case you didn't notice and would be glad to guide you.It will probably take 6-8 hours if you hit it hard the first time.Good luck and take another drink
Last edited by Redeasysport; Mar 5, 2006 at 01:49 AM.
What all do I need let's go ahead and say Water pump, distributor, etc.?
Waterpump&gaskets,RTV sealant for the WP,Opti,Plug wires at least because it is so much easier to do it now with everything off.Plugs can wait.That should do it for a basic job.Shop around for the Opti check with Cris at superior and Van Devere they used to have a good price.Waterpump can be gotten at Autozone although some will say use OEM I did not.Your friend was right but when you get done with it you will have so much pride in yourself you won't believe.The worst part will be getting the balancer off soak it with PB blaster for a couple of days they stick.Have at it.You might get by with the chiltons I can PM you the proper torque values which is what the FSM is needed for but you really should get one but I can understand the added cost right now may be an issue.
On the WP if you look at the weep hole and it is clean and it spins easily you can re-use it.
One other thing is when you get the opti(if you get OEM) take some RTV and seal around the plug area and put a bead all around the cap to help prevent this from happening again.The seal around the plug sucks on the OEM units you will see when you get it and I believe that is the major point of water/coolant intrusion.
Last edited by Redeasysport; Mar 5, 2006 at 02:20 AM.
Thank God I have an L98. They are all just about bullet proof to any kind of liquid and don't have the ominous Opti to contend with.
I feel for you for the job you are about to undertake.
There's is no way I'd be able to do this. I know I could tear into it but getting it all back together is the kicker. My question is since this opti lasted for 14 years, should I just buy the OEM since I'm probably not going to have it 5 years from now anyway? Then again I may keep this car forever. I'm still shellshocked on what to do. Getting robbed would be better than trying to figure this out.
I always thought that the distributor cap was on top of the engine not on the bottom just below the water pump.
Must of been an afterthought.
Hope this helps.
I haven't driven the Tahoe since December and I feel like I'm driving Grandpa's ride. Gas drinking Merchant & Farmer.












