C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Need help. Got stranded tonight.

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Old Mar 5, 2006 | 10:42 PM
  #21  
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See post #9 it says it all.
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Old Mar 5, 2006 | 11:40 PM
  #22  
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Tough break. Sounds like a leak in your hoses ruined your Opti. Had that happen to me a few years ago. Get your credit card out. Its not cheap especially if you have someone else do it. Hoses, Opti,waterpump plus 85 bucks an hour for labor you are looking at close to a grand.
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Old Mar 6, 2006 | 06:45 AM
  #23  
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If your aunt just had a new waterpump installed and it is a GM pump there really is no need to put in another new one.
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Old Mar 6, 2006 | 10:59 AM
  #24  
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You got the Optispark blues. Sorry to hear it, but I hope you get her back on the road, soon.
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Old Mar 6, 2006 | 11:44 AM
  #25  
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I've been waiting on Dynaspark to answer but wondered if the local part stores would have the distributors you guys been talking about? If you went to Autozone, O'Reilys, or Advance do they have the good one's or is it all OEM? Had to work all night last night and haven't had time to mess with it. I guess that's what tax refunds are for.
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Old Mar 6, 2006 | 12:20 PM
  #26  
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I know you can get the Opti cap and rotor rebuild kits for $150 or so from AutoZone, PepBoys, NAPA and other auto parts stores, but that's not gonna' go you any good since your entire unit got hosed.

The better news, though, is that Optispark prices have come down considerably over the last six years. You should be able to get one for about $300 as others have stated. When I bought my Vette back in 2001, they were $500 to $600 easily.

Check Superior Chevrolet at the link below.

They have an excellent rapport with Corvette Forum members.

http://www.superiorchevrolet.com/

Last edited by onedef92; Mar 6, 2006 at 12:29 PM.
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Old Mar 6, 2006 | 02:14 PM
  #27  
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If the opti is so bad then how will it start up and idle for 30 minutes. I didn't go anywhere. I'm sure if I take off using more power then it'll die but just don't understand how it car run for half hour?

Man, it's a nice day here about 75.
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Old Mar 6, 2006 | 02:32 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by slicked25
If the opti is so bad then how will it start up and idle for 30 minutes. I didn't go anywhere. I'm sure if I take off using more power then it'll die but just don't understand how it car run for half hour?

Man, it's a nice day here about 75.
Thought you said it was 'dead'. Check again and see if you are still getting code 36. I have never heard of an opti drying out and going back to working normally, but then I haven't heard everything. In answer to the other question Advance Auto sells new A/C Delco and reman A/C Delco, plus one other brand. Not usre if the sell the upgrade kits though. Good luck with it.
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Old Mar 6, 2006 | 02:47 PM
  #29  
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I believe it's dead but then again I'm not even considered a shade tree wrench. So if it's dead it want crank right? I haven't made a test drive yet because I have to go to work in about 10 minutes. Want code 36 still be stored in memory until cleared?

I just called the pro's at the dealership for Thursday. I know the mechanic out there so maybe he want hit me to hard. At this point I don't even care anymore. It's going to be expensive one way or the other.
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Old Mar 6, 2006 | 03:12 PM
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If it ain't dead, you can be sure its exhibiting its death throes...
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Old Mar 6, 2006 | 06:39 PM
  #31  
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Read post #9
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Old Mar 6, 2006 | 06:51 PM
  #32  
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I just did the paperclip and DID NOT GET A CODE 36. Only code 12 was shown. (Blink, BlinkBlink) I did it for 5 minutes and never saw the killer code 36. Don't ask my why. If you don't here from me for 30 minutes for now I'm stranded. I'm still not 100% sold everything's OK. This is wierd.
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Old Mar 6, 2006 | 07:07 PM
  #33  
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I'm still not getting a code 36 only 12 but when pressing the brakes there's a hiss sound I'd never heard before. So I didn't go cruising around. Only back and fourth in the driveway. I have plently of brake fluid other than they just feel tight. Don't know if it's related but will get it checked out this week. Why would I get code 36 yesterday and not today?
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Old Mar 6, 2006 | 07:29 PM
  #34  
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OK here is the story.If it was water that caused the code 36 it might have a chance of drying and being OK.Coolant when it evaporates leaves a residue that is sticky.You may be OK for a while but because there is sparking inside the cap there are contaminants created and they will stick to the residue.You may be fine for a week ,month or longer but as I said before better get a AAA membership and cell phone.I hope it lasts a looong time but I do not recall a code36 every healing itself forever.Hope that explains it.I would not go on any long trips if I were you at least until it runs for 6 months with no other trouble.Mabey I worry to much but I do not want to be stranded.
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Old Mar 6, 2006 | 07:58 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by slicked25
I'm still not getting a code 36 only 12 but when pressing the brakes there's a hiss sound I'd never heard before. So I didn't go cruising around. Only back and fourth in the driveway. I have plently of brake fluid other than they just feel tight. Don't know if it's related but will get it checked out this week. Why would I get code 36 yesterday and not today?
Contrary to popular belief, on a 92 LT1 the cause of an intermittant code 36 is NOT a bad opti. The opti almost never comes back to life when it goes out.
According to the 92 FSM, the cause of intermittant code 36 is usually a bad connection between the opti and the ECM.
The FSM says to "CHECK EST WIREING FOR ROUTING TOO CLOSE TO THE SECONDARY IGNITION COMPONENTS OR OTHER COMPONENTS THAT MAY INDUCE ELECTROMAGNETIC INTERFERENCE ON TO THE EST SIGNAL WIRE THAT MAY CAUSE A FALSE EST SIGNAL TO THE DIS SIGNAL TO THE DIS MODULE.
THE DIS FAULT LINE WILL BE IN THE LOW STATE ANYTIME THAT THE IGNITION MODULE DETECTS A FAULT THAT FORCES THE IGNITION MODULE TO GO BACK TO BYPASS MODE.
AN INTERMITTANT CONNECTION CAN CAUSE AN EXTRA EST SIGNSL AND SAT A CODE 36.

I had a similar problem with my 92 and it was a bad connector on the ignition module.

Check all of the connectors between the opti and the ECM. They are the onr on the opti, the one on the ICM, the two on the coil, the one on the passenger side of the intake manifold and the one on the ECM.

Check these connectors by shaking then while the engine is running to see if you can duplicate the condition or the code.

Dont change the opti until you have had a ghance to eliminate the other options. If a loose connection is not the problem I can guide you through the FSM diognostic procedure for a code 36.

Many people blame the opti for any ignition problems they have and then start changing parts until they hit the right one, it is much smarter to diognoise the exact problem before throwing money at it.

Hope this saves you some money.

Jerris
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 12:03 AM
  #36  
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Once the car warmed up to 207 the code 36 came back. Since this happened Friday, the opti never did look like it was soaked with antifreeze. It was dry. Now the coil wire plug in was soaked. Not the plug in going to the opti but it's the wire from the opti to the other place. Can't think what's it called at the moment but I'll keep checking.

You really come to appreciation of these car's when their taking away from you. I'm thinking if it goes in the shop Thursday, I think it'll be 2 weeks untill it's ready. OK I have to go back to work. Just feeding my addiction.
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