C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

High Voltage

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Old Mar 4, 2006 | 05:33 PM
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Default High Voltage

The car: 1992 Corvette 383

So i'm driving around the vette and i see the battery light come on. I look at the needle and it's buried in the hash marks and the top of the guage on the high side. It wasn't like this the whole time, it just kind of spikes up there for a second.

My digital thing goes...

14.6, 14.8, 14.6, 15.5, 14.7, 15.9, 15.1, 16.5, 16.0, 15.5, etc.....

It's in the hashmarks when it hits the 16 range.

I figure something with the alt is ****ed. I take it to autozone to have them test it and they first test the battery and the machine says the battery is bad.

Because the battery was bad they didn't test the alt.

Now, is it spiking because the battery is bad? Or am i spiking and the battery is bad because the Alt is overcharging?
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Old Mar 4, 2006 | 05:36 PM
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[QUOTE=CaptainCaveMan]The car: 1992 Corvette 383

So i'm driving around the vette and i see the battery light come on. I look at the needle and it's buried in the hash marks and the top of the guage on the high side. It wasn't like this the whole time, it just kind of spikes up there for a second.

My digital thing goes...

14.6, 14.8, 14.6, 15.5, 14.7, 15.9, 15.1, 16.5, 16.0, 15.5, etc.....

It's in the hashmarks when it hits the 16 range.

I figure something with the alt is ****ed. I take it to autozone to have them test it and they first test the battery and the machine says the battery is bad.

Because the battery was bad they didn't test the alt.

Now, is it spiking because the battery is bad? Or am i spiking and the battery is bad because the Alt is overcharging?

I would bet on bad regulator in the alternator.
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Old Mar 4, 2006 | 06:09 PM
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What's the battery voltage with the ignotion on and the engine NOT running? If it's 11.5 volts or less, chances are the battery is either bad or it needs a charge.

I would go to a reputable auto repair facility and have the system checked. They will do a load test on the battery and check the alternator output and let you know where the problem lies.

If the battery is bad, get a good quality battery like an AC Delco "Professional" battery, a Sears DieHard Gold or Interstate battery. The Optima Red Top is also a good choice but you do need to modify the battery tray holddown to get it to stay in place. Also the positive top post is very close to the angled frame support bar so be careful there.

If the alternator is bad, stay away from the Bosch units or any cheapie remans. Specifiy an AC Delco or Nippondenso alternator as a replacement.
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Old Mar 4, 2006 | 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by aminnich
I would bet on bad regulator in the alternator.
blown diodes in you voltage regulator. Diodes are used to clamp the high voltage output of alternator to 14.8V(or somehere close to this). Dead battery or not, your regulator should clamp the voltage.

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Old Mar 4, 2006 | 08:02 PM
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I'll have someone look at it monday, it has a yellow optimum battery in it right now.

One thing my car was doing (well before this) is the lights flicker non-stop. Not an on/off flicker but like a very faint flicker like it would if you had a big sound system turned up. My car does have a sound system in it, but it does it even when everything is turned off.

Would this be a sign of the alt taking a ****?
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Old Mar 4, 2006 | 08:52 PM
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[QUOTE=MikeC4] blown diodes in you voltage regulator. Diodes are used to clamp the high voltage output of alternator to 14.8V(or somehere close to this). --

13.8 to 14.2
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Old Mar 4, 2006 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by CaptainCaveMan
I'll have someone look at it monday, it has a yellow optimum battery in it right now.

One thing my car was doing (well before this) is the lights flicker non-stop. Not an on/off flicker but like a very faint flicker like it would if you had a big sound system turned up. My car does have a sound system in it, but it does it even when everything is turned off.

Would this be a sign of the alt taking a ****?
I wouldn't think so, but possibly. Loose cable or bad connections at battery, ground, alternator, or starter can throw so weird effects.
With good battery, good clean and tight cable connections and bew alternator there is fair chance the 'flickering' will go away as well.
Sned me PM to let me know how it all turns out.
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Old Mar 5, 2006 | 11:05 AM
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Flickering lights are caused by a voltage regulator in the alternator oscillating and could also be the cause of your dash voltmeter jumping around all over the place. You can prove its the alternator by unplugging the connector on the alternator with the engine running and observing that the flickering stops. Parts store alternator checkers don't check for oscillating voltage regulators. You can replace the alternator or take it to an auto electrical repair shop and have the voltage regulator replaced.
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Old Mar 5, 2006 | 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by jfb
Flickering lights are caused by a voltage regulator in the alternator oscillating and could also be the cause of your dash voltmeter jumping around all over the place. You can prove its the alternator by unplugging the connector on the alternator with the engine running and observing that the flickering stops. Parts store alternator checkers don't check for oscillating voltage regulators. You can replace the alternator or take it to an auto electrical repair shop and have the voltage regulator replaced.
excellent point. The jumping around around of your voltage and flickering lights can be thought of like a household light dimmer. The higher the voltage, the more current flow- brighter lights
The lower the voltage, less current flow- dimmer lights

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Old Mar 5, 2006 | 01:23 PM
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Thanks guys
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