Went to the track today...
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 427
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque New Mexico
Went to the track today...
...and just as I rolled up the brake booster went out. The pedal feels like a cement block. 
There's a rebuild protocol in the repair manual (1996), but you need the repair kit. Is it worth it? I'm thinking I'll just go with a new one. Here's to two days of tearing it up with the new s/c setup (15 lbs), and nothing to show for it 
. Let me know if y'all have any tricks for this job to make it go faster. 
There's a rebuild protocol in the repair manual (1996), but you need the repair kit. Is it worth it? I'm thinking I'll just go with a new one. Here's to two days of tearing it up with the new s/c setup (15 lbs), and nothing to show for it . Let me know if y'all have any tricks for this job to make it go faster.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,204
Likes: 6
From: St Marys PA
Your best bet is to replace it with a metal one. I did that on mine after a second plastic one failed, and I could not believe the difference. My brakes were WAY better even when the plastic one was new.
A few long extensions, and 13mm socket, a few stretches before crawling in upside down, and some patients you should be able to have it out in a matter of a 1 hour.
Just pull the master cylinder out of the way gentle, this will avoid the need to bleed the system. Be sure to set the endplay about 1/8", too close you preload the brakes. I check mine by jacking the car up and spin the front tires.
A few long extensions, and 13mm socket, a few stretches before crawling in upside down, and some patients you should be able to have it out in a matter of a 1 hour.
Just pull the master cylinder out of the way gentle, this will avoid the need to bleed the system. Be sure to set the endplay about 1/8", too close you preload the brakes. I check mine by jacking the car up and spin the front tires.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 25
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Originally Posted by drochau
...and just as I rolled up the brake booster went out. The pedal feels like a cement block. There's a rebuild protocol in the repair manual (1996), but you need the repair kit. Is it worth it? I'm thinking I'll just go with a new one. Here's to two days of tearing it up with the new s/c setup (15 lbs), and nothing to show for it . Let me know if y'all have any tricks for this job to make it go faster.
There's a rebuild protocol in the repair manual (1996), but you need the repair kit. Is it worth it? I'm thinking I'll just go with a new one. Here's to two days of tearing it up with the new s/c setup (15 lbs), and nothing to show for it . Let me know if y'all have any tricks for this job to make it go faster.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 427
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque New Mexico
Originally Posted by ski_dwn_it
Your best bet is to replace it with a metal one. I did that on mine after a second plastic one failed, and I could not believe the difference. My brakes were WAY better even when the plastic one was new.
A few long extensions, and 13mm socket, a few stretches before crawling in upside down, and some patients you should be able to have it out in a matter of a 1 hour.
Just pull the master cylinder out of the way gentle, this will avoid the need to bleed the system. Be sure to set the endplay about 1/8", too close you preload the brakes. I check mine by jacking the car up and spin the front tires.
A few long extensions, and 13mm socket, a few stretches before crawling in upside down, and some patients you should be able to have it out in a matter of a 1 hour.
Just pull the master cylinder out of the way gentle, this will avoid the need to bleed the system. Be sure to set the endplay about 1/8", too close you preload the brakes. I check mine by jacking the car up and spin the front tires.
Looks like the difference is in the hookup between the pedal and the booster. Any 1996 guys know what the hookup looks like for the booster stock? It's either a clevis style or an eyelet. THanks!
Last edited by drochau; Mar 4, 2006 at 07:28 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,471
Likes: 2
From: 1993 Quasar Blue 'vert Scottsdale AZ
I'm about 20 hours into replacing mine. The few people on the Forum who say it is easy, must have an L98. It is a totaly PITA. I finally got mine out by smashing it with a hammer. Two problems are the cross brace which runs in front of the booster, and it's a lot easier if you go ahead and remove the master cylinder (get speedbleeders to flush the system). I will never do it again. I will gladly pay the shop $200+ to do it for me. I would love to tar & feather the idiot enginerr who came up with some of this C4 crap.
