When you insert the key into the key whole, it will not turn left or right. If you try to move the unlock lever inside the car, it will not move. My door is stuck in the unlock position.

Driver side works fine.

Car is a 1990 coupe.

Anyone had this problem before?

 

From reading your note, it appears you have problems with the "tumblers" in the passenger door lock. The tumblers are either stuck or worn inside the mechanism. Have you tried a different key? You may want to spray some lubricant into the keyhole and see if this will free up the tumblers. Otherwise, you will have to remove the lock assembly and take it to a locksmith. This is not too difficult to do.

 

my driver's side lock was broken (key turn, but no unlock) and while it was in the shop getting the bumper repainted i had the guy fix it, he did it for like $25 and i never had to worry with door panels etc. only problem is now the alarm goes off when i unlock it....but ill make that another thread. good luck



CJ

 

CJ: I have not worked on your model car....but I have worked on my 89 model. Your problem has a simple fix. The door lock assembly has a switch attached to it for the alarm system. There are two wires going to this switch.....and the guy who fixed your car probably left off one or both wires off the switch. Remove the inside door panel and look up at the lock assembly and you will see the wires. Hope this is helpful.
SAM

 

If it is frozen tumblers, a product called "lock-ease" works very well. Used liberally, and continued inserting key, and turning has freed up many door locks I have had in the past. May save taking it apart, and in the future as preventive maintenance.

 

I got completely locked out of my car this morning. The lock was actually frozen cause it was so cold out. Does that lock-ease stuff work on frozen locks as well?

 

Once inside the lock and lock is in working order it won't freeze, however ........in your case no
There is another product "de-ice" I believe most auto parts carry (and faster than heating a key )that you push in the key door that works (frozen as in water and cold, not just bound up )

 

This may seem rather simplistic, but mine was doing the same thing, and all it was was the plastic slide **** on the inside was a little out of whack and was hitting on the plastic part of the door panel. It couldn't move, so I just pushed it in with my finger and freed it up.

 

My problem is worse. After 19 years of indoor storage my 84 pass door lock seems stuck
in LOCK position, key no turn, door handle locked in closed position, and door closed.
To make it worse power window up and click but no movement when power switch operated.
Door lock power switch clicks but no movement in inside sliding manual override. Forcing overide
slider impossible to slide. On top of that with door locked it is impossible to get to FUSES, and
impossible to remove door interior panel.

HELP

 

The problem you have is a problem that I hope never happens to me! Assuming that none of your door lock parts have been damaged by rodents or people, your best option would be to spray some lubricant directly into the key lock tumblers. The tumbler assembly usually contains some thick lubricant and this may have dried out over the years and this may "locked up" the entire tumbler assembly. My first recommendation would be to get a can of WD40 and using the red plastic straw that comes with the can, stick the straw into the lock assembly and insert a liberal amount of WD40 lubricant. Please note that WD40 will dissolve grease after a short period of time. Do this every 15 minutes for an hour or two. The only other option would be to call a locksmith.....and they probably cannot help you!

Hope this is helpful, SAM

 

Thanks

I will start the WD40 today.

After many dry turning over of the engine and noticing the oil
pressure going up, I have no starting, no firing, nothing.
Took out 20 year old gas, added 2 gal of fresh gas, nothing.

Sprayed carb cleaner into throttle bodies and fires right up.
Have to check fuel flow., or lack of it.

George

 

Trizney, I would pull the door panel to inspect the locking mechanism.

 

65z01;;
I can't pull the door panel as
the door is also locked closed, with no way to get
the door open. In addition the window is closed
and won't move when pressing up or down.
ALL THINGS ARE WORKING AGAINST ME.

So far I am trying to apply WD40 through the
key opening which is too small.
Tomorrow I will try moving the inside slider to
see if pulling in or out while forcing it
to the open position

I see that 5 screws hold the inside plastic panel
containing the inside door latch and handle, but
I don't know if that will be a help.

George

 

In your case where it won't unlock, you might try squirting some WD-40 in past the inner WS and window to lube the lock mechanism as well as some lube into the lock itself. Good luck.

 

Not sure what the WS is.?

Let me know , I'll give
it a try.

George

 

I had a similar problem with my passengers door where the old grease had turned hard and would not allow things to move freely. I had to remove the inner door panel and clean every joint that had the nasty yellow hard stuff on them. After cleaning the joints the door worked fine with the remote or by hand. It is not easy nor is it fun but your doors will work like new again if you re-lubricate all the parts with something that stays slippery. I did the door lock mechanism as it too was frozen on my car.

On the door lock mechanism try and find something with graphite in it as that will loosen the inside parts better and leave no residue as they use alcohol to carry it in and then it evaporates leaving only the graphite. WD40 will work but that is not the proper lubricant for a door lock. Graphite is used inside lock mechanisms. Sometimes if you wiggle the inside lock release back and forth it might pop free and allow you to open the door.

I like KROILS OIL for a good penetrating oil. I use it on anything really "stuck".

I wonder if you heat up the door with a good Hot Air Gun around the lock mechanism inside and outside of the door it might help free up whatever is stuck. You need lots of heat but don't melt your interior of the door panels. I would move the heat around where the parts are in the door. Heat helps penetrating oil work its way into the problems and loosens things up. Try it on the outside door lock and then fill it with Graphite (At any auto parts store) and then heat the interior up and try sliding the lock mechanism after heating it up. Don't melt the black plastic piece over the lock bar, on my 1988 C4 it slides horizontally and only a short distance. You might even keep a fire Extinguisher handy just in case.

On your car starting on spray but not otherwise. Did you hear the fuel pump prime prior to starting? You should hear the pump if it is working. Older Corvettes rely on fuel pressure to run properly. You will need to get a fuel pressure gauge and check your fuel pressure at the valve on the passengers side of the fuel rail near the firewall. It should be between 38-42 psi at idle with the car running. Watch the pressure after shutting off the key, it should go down gradually or slowly, if it goes to zero you likely have a bad injector that is leaking. Be sure that the Vacuum hoses are all connected and working to ensure the emissions system continues to work. If you don't have a set of the Factory Service Manuals for your specific year of Corvette you might consider getting a set, they are priceless when you have a problem with your C4. Only trust the Original manuals sold by HELM, I don't trust the Chiltons or Clymers any more.

I wish you the best in getting into that passengers door and getting it all freed up inside there!

Regards,
Chris

 

ctmccloskey ;

I would be doing that at every latching and turning location
If I could remove the door panel. Since the door is closed I would
have to destroy the panel to do that.
I like your idea of heat but at this point I would
have to point a salamander heater at the outer door skin.
Not likely that it will migrate inside to the linkages
but it is worth a try.
Temps in my garage at high 30'0 right now.

I don't have a 45 psi fuel system nor a line tester port since I
do not have fuel injection or a fuel rail.
The 82 84 vetts had crossfire throttle body injection
operating on old fashion 9 psi pump. Basically the same as the FIERO 4 cylinder.
I did hear the pump when I turn the key but it gradually slows down and stops in about 30 sec
I managed to take the high pressure hose of in the fuel
filler opening and it is not pumping.
So I am hoping a new 9 PSI pump will do the trick.
I am almost ready to pull the pump but the evap hose is
stuck on and I can't figure out how to release the
4 wire clip.

George

 

Georgesauto

I apologize to you because I was still trying to help the original poster who owns a 1990 C4 Corvette with the L98 engine and Tuned Port Injection.

Heat is VERY effective on stuck hardware but it has it's dangers, (keep a fire extinguisher handy). Do Not use a Salamander heater on your door. I suggested a Hot Air Gun which can make more than enough heat to release the grease that is probably holding your parts together. The idea of taking some Graphite Lock lubricant and injecting some into the door lock. Let bit set for an hour or so and do it again. Next try the key and slowly twist it in both directions trying to slowly loosen it up. It might even work if you could put the car in the Sun and let the greenhouse effect heat up your interior, that works whenever the sun is out even in the winter.

I was giving instructions on a car with the L98 engine fuel injection system and not the crossfire system used back in the day. The crossfire system is fairly straightforward and not too hard to work on from what I have read. I however know very little about it other than the basics. If you hear your fuel pump running are you getting any fuel out of either of the throttle bodies? Post your specific questions and address them to either the C3 or the C4 Cross Fire people. Adding your questions to another post makes it a bit more challenging for us.

Sometimes a fuel pump strainer will fall off and let junk plug up your pump. I let a car set for a while and the gas line plugged itself up as it rusted closed. I had to try the pump at the tank and then again at the engine and the difference of flow was remarkable, it was obvious that the line was plugged. I ran a new high pressure line and all is better. Also make sure that your fuel pump is getting the proper voltage and has a good solid ground connection. You should see gasoline shooting out in a cone shape out of the injectors (Throttle Bodies) when the engine is running. Post your issues on a separate post and you will get lots of experienced help from fellow Cross Fire Owners and former owners who have a lot of experience with your engine and fuel system.

Good Luck!

 

Yes This thread is 13 years old,
Question on the outside door pull. It seems frozen with no movement at all.
On the drivers side there seems to be a movement either locked ou unlocked.???

I got the 35 year old gas pump put and WHAT GRUNGE. There is not a hose connecting
the pump output to the 3/8 vert pipe (NOTHING). I cant see it inside the tank either..???
Is there a exploded view of the crossfire pump /level sensor that shows the parts breakdown???

Another problem I see is the fuel return pipe that goes down to the lower mounting for the
fuel pump was completely blocked about 3 inches with hard grunge. I GUESS WITH ONLY 9 PSI
YOU CAN GET AWAY WITH THAT.
I hope to get the new pump /filter/strainer any day. I guess I will have
to use a short piece of 3/8 rubber hose and two clamps???

 

I can see a small amount of movement of the plastic slide bar when I operate
the power licks, but it doesn't move as much as the driver's door.
I get the feeling that the door was slammed closed with a miss alignment of the
door jamb pin. There is absolutely no movement of the outside and
inside door pulls. I may have to crawl in and give the door a body blow
the hope for some movement. Using a pry bar will only hurt the plastic.

George