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I was incorrect, they didn't remove the pcv system, they left the driverside still ventilated to the header collector area, but capped off the passengerside,
Remove...Disable...Either way...Six of one, half a dozen of the other. If that isn't responsible for the present leak, there is a good chance it will, be for others, down the road.
To my knowlege, there is no such thing as chrome moly rings. There are chrome rings, although they are hardly ever used. Moly rings, if clyinder walls are finished with the correct finish, seal quickly. What are the leakdown numbers?
Remove...Disable...Either way...Six of one, half a dozen of the other. If that isn't responsible for the present leak, there is a good chance it will, be for others, down the road.
RACE ON!!!
I had something similar happen to mine when it pressurized the crank case, I had leaks from everywhere.
I never have been fond of the Venturi type crank vents, a little back pressure in the exhaust and it will pressurize the crank case.
I had something similar happen to mine when it pressurized the crank case, I had leaks from everywhere.
I never have been fond of the Venturi type crank vents, a little back pressure in the exhaust and it will pressurize the crank case.
I never thought about pressurizing the crank case. Makes good sense though.I learned something new.
I really have my doubts about your engine builder. When you asked him about the rings he was very vague. I hope he installed them correctly. Don't give up until it doesn't smoke! Even if that means having him redo it!!
To my knowlege, there is no such thing as chrome moly rings. There are chrome rings, although they are hardly ever used. Moly rings, if clyinder walls are finished with the correct finish, seal quickly. What are the leakdown numbers?
I have Plasma-Moley rings but the "Term" Chrome Moley has been used and still is used to describe Moly rings including many vendors, right wrong or indiffernt. I agree that a properly preped block with a hone for a moley ring, like the plasma's in my set up will seat fairly quick but if the block was not honed correctly for the rings they can take a long time to seat and if the prep work is to bad they will never seat compleatly.
At it's very best, a header evac system is a low vacuum, WOT only, circulation system. Most of the time, if you are lucky enough for it not to get plugged up with acids, gunk, and sludge, the evac is a vent, at best. Even in the olden days before there was a PCV system, there was a road draft tube. For a track, only car, it IS an accepable system, but a vacuum pump is better (for the track).
At it's very best, a header evac system is a low vacuum, WOT only, circulation system. Most of the time, if you are lucky enough for it not to get plugged up with acids, gunk, and sludge, the evac is a vent, at best. Even in the olden days before there was a PCV system, there was a road draft tube. For a track, only car, it IS an accepable system, but a vacuum pump is better (for the track).
RACE ON!!!
As long as you do not have much blowby you can get away with it on the street also. it is what i an running on my 87 now. I need to look into getting one of Greg Carrolls PCV systems for mine, but for now what i have seems to work just fine, and the emmisions guys never notice it.
I do agree that a vacum pump is a far better solution.
It's a vacuum pump that removes pressure from the crank case. It can be electric or belt driven. It would replace the pcv system or in your case the evacuation system.
You don't need one. You also don't need the evacuation system. It was a waste of money. What you need is for the rings to be corrected. You are building pressure in the crankcase due to blow by of the rings. Thats why the dipstick is blowing oil, your fouling plugs and thats why your coating the back bumper. Next you will blow out the rear main seal and possibly the oil pan gasket. Maybe you should do a compression test on your own to double check your mechanic.
Ask him what the numbers were and how he did the test.
Just out of curiosity how much oil do you run in that? Is it a stock pan? Stock dip stick? Too much oil could have the same symptoms but it would have to be really over filled!
I know you don't want to hear this but the answer is to fix or replace the rings.
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
I get a lot of blowby, yet the compression numbers are way up there (190-205) on a warm motor. My oil pressure is 80+ cold, and 55-70 hot. It leaks oil at both mains even after replacing both, and residue at the vent tube and fill cap at the valve cover. Have not done a leakdown test. The pcv is clean and works properly. The motor isn't down on power, at least not measureably.
I get a lot of blowby, yet the compression numbers are way up there (190-205) on a warm motor. My oil pressure is 80+ cold, and 55-70 hot. It leaks oil at both mains even after replacing both, and residue at the vent tube and fill cap at the valve cover. Have not done a leakdown test. The pcv is clean and works properly. The motor isn't down on power, at least not measureably.
Do a leak down test, a static compression test really does not pin point anything. Blowby by definition is poor ring seal.
On your oil leaks, did you by chance install a high pressure and or a high volume oil pump?
If you did, good luck with getting those leaks stopped.
That really sounds like a lot of oil pressure to me, almost excessive, but you did not say at what RPM you were getting those readings. I assumed that the 80 PSI cold was idling.