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I'm in the process right now - it's adding up VERY quickly. If I would have just done a straight 383 I would have only had about $2500 into it....now I'm up over $4,000.....
I wish someone had made a list of absolute necessities for the conversion as I was only expecting to put in about $3,000 total.
Here's my list:
383
Forged Pistons
Stage II heads
GTP 216/226 Cam
Comp Cams Magnum Roller Rockers (1.6's)
Comp Cams "R" Lifters
Comp Cams Hardened Pushrods
58MM Throttle Body
SLP Headers
MSD 8.5MM Plug Wires
MSD Coil
Meziere Electric Water Pump (not a necessity)
Stuff I already Had:
Flowmaster Cat Back
Breathless Intake
It all adds up...Hopefully this thing will run!
Any guesses on how much HP this thing should have?
Since you have the standard chevy motor, you can go anywhere from 383 to 420 (maybe more) using stock blocks. The cost of the short block is determined by the max rpm you want to spin the motor. If you can stay under 6000 rpm, cast crank and stock rods work pretty well. I recommend forged pistons no matter what you do. Your next big expense is the heads. You can spend anywhere from 1000 for a good set of heads to 4000+ for modified 18 deg heads. A very good set will run between 1200 - 1500. The stock TPI needs to go for any real performance above 4500 rpm. Then you have injectors, tuning etc. Your 91 has speed density which can tuned to handle a lot of HP using the stock ecm and sensors.
Engine rebuild time is a good time to do a performance engine. You need to be sure to get a good engine builder and tuner to get the most out of the project. This can also be an opportunity to learn to work on your own car. Just be sure to have someone who has done the engine stuff to work with you.
The first thing I would do if you want a stroker motor is to get the book 'John Lingenfelter on modifying small block chevy engines'. He covers almost everything you would want to know about high performance small blocks. If you decide to tackle the motor, you should get the factory service manual and the book on rebuilding your small block chevy. Oh and a good tool set.
My dad will be paying for most then make me pay some. Since he just built a new house, having to fix both my brother's cars, Bronco and Range Rover, he doesn't want to spend too much. My brother with the Range Rover wants to install a 350 aluminum block but that has come to a halt cause of me :D, but why it did really sucks :(.
Can someone recamend some real nice parts for a 383 conversion but also won't break the bank? I would like to put real nice parts in the engine and later upgrade the other parts outside that do not have to be upgraded for a while. An example is to maybe later upgrade the exhaust system, ignition system, etc...
i started my 383 project with a budget of $4000.. i've now spent almost $8k! the things you think you'd save for later "when you have more money" like headers, ignition, clutch, programming, injectors, fuel pump, more head work, better rotating assembly, bigger oil pan, oil cooler, bigger TB, and on and on will end up doubling your overall project cost..
if you start with 8-10k but begin your project like you're on a 3-4k budget, you probably won't overrun your 8-10k savings ;)
the good thing is you can also start with 4k in your pocket because these kinds of projects take so long to finish that you'll have the extra 4k by the time it's over!
Im not really looking to make it into a fire breather right now, just a healthy dose of pep. About how long woud a conversion take? The only other car I can use is a mid 80's Buick Century.
depends who ya know for length of time.. build it in the winter to save time also..
i started mine at end of april this year.. i just finished final assembly of the motor and will put it in next weekend. car will be on the road by labor day weekend i hope!
If it will be built, it will be in about a week since my engine is in a rebuild-or-have-to-buy-new shape now and will be out of the car soon. I'll proably know tommarrow if it is bad enough to have to buy a new engine.
A budget level build with "nice parts" - I would do
Eagle 3.75 cast crank
Eagle SIR I-beam rods (6.00")
SRP forged flat top pistons
Clevite H bearings
ARP main studs
Speed Pro plasma/moly rings
Assembeled, blueprinted and balanced that will run you a bit under 2500.
The reason strokers tend to add up is that you don't want to just do the bottom end. If you stick stock heads on that you will have a hard time making much more horsepower - you will just tend to shift the torque curve to the left (make a bit more power, but at a lower rpm). A really nice set of heads is going to run you ~2k, a camshaft from 250-400 dollars (cast, billet, etc.). Your best bet is to decide exactly what you want out of the setup (everything), and pick a budget, then try to fit it in that. Don't skimp on important parts though as that can come back and bite you in the butt later on.
Who, aside from Lingenfelter and Rippie, do 383 conversions? Theirs cost over $10,000, yet I'm seeing a lot of people doing it here for anywhere from $3,000-5,000 less. What do the big name tuners do that's extra, or are you paying for a name?
I'm thinking of doing the conversion over the winter.
Want extra power without the stroker, drop in a ZZ4. 355 hp, run with the stock LT-1's, about $3200-$3300 for new engine, plus labor to do the swap unless you plan to do the install yourself. A good compromise