A/c compressor removal
Pro
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 666
Likes: 0
From: Richmond TX
Yep...just did this....the only other option is to unbolt the entire bracket, and pull the whole thing off....don't forget the bolt directly under the clutch....you can't see it fron the top. Mine was a t40 torqx head...I didn't know this until I got it out, it's a bogger to get with a socket. You'll have to rotate the outer ring of the pulley, there are some small indentations in the pulley that allow the head of the bolt to come out. Good Luck.... 
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 4,931
Likes: 3
From: Fort Lauderdale FL
Well when I replaced my waterpump there were 3 bolts that held the AC Compressor bracket to the engine. The two that connect to the waterpump and one under the AC Compressor pulley. You need to remove the belt tensioner and you can get to it. It is a 40-45 TORX bolt. Just remove those bolts and slide the bracket with AC compressor connected forward and you should then be able to remove the bolt you are referring to. Those valve covers are a bitch to get off especially if you have all the smog equipment still hooked up.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 20,111
Likes: 1
From: My redneck of the woods louisiana
i got the weird torx bolt off the two nuts that hold the bracket to the W/P the air diverter valve or whatever it was. but it seems that some of the smog lines and fuel lines run through the bracket and are keeping me from pulling it forward enough. i would like to avoid pulling the V/C because i don't wanna take off the egr line again because i stripped one of the torx heads in the intake and don't wanna deal with that crimp on ring
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 4,931
Likes: 3
From: Fort Lauderdale FL
Yeah forgot to mention.. you need to disconnect the fuel lines to the fuel rails. Just relieve the gas pressure and remove them and cap them off to avoid extra spillage. I'm sure it sounds as bad as it seems but it really isnt anything to worry about. You are then able to move the AC compressor bracket forward.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 14,130
Likes: 7
Cruise-In II Veteran
Buy a kit of rubber vacuum caps...then when you take the fuel lines off,you can simply put the cap on them to stop leakage.Do be sure to get new O rings for the fuel lines there.They are 2 different sizes and do not get generic black ones from the local parts stores.Get the correct green or brown ones from the dealer or etc that carry them.They are fuel compatible and wont break down to mush like generic ones can.
