brake fluid?
If you changed to synthetic fluid and felt a difference it's likely that the old fluid had some air or moisture.
Brake fluid is hydroscopic; it will absorb moisture out of the air which in turn causes rust and corrosion in the brake system and that moisture (water) will boil when the fluid gets hot resulting in reduced braking power even to the point where the pedal feels "mushy" or even a loss of braking.
The moisture effectively turns to steam with heavy braking and that creates pockets in the system and the pedal feels soft or could even go right to the floor
I use a DOT4 fluid in my 87. DOT 4 fluids typically have a higher wet boiling point and for extreme braking use like track days, you need a fluid that will resist boiling due to the heat generated by this type of braking. For steet use, a DOT3 fluid is fine.
DOT 5 fluid, which is a silicone base fluid is not recommended at all for ABS braking systems. Silicone fluid will cause cavitation in ABS systems from the rapid pulsating of the ABS pump and that can result in loss of braking power.
Brake fluid is hydroscopic; it will absorb moisture out of the air which in turn causes rust and corrosion in the brake system and that moisture (water) will boil when the fluid gets hot resulting in reduced braking power even to the point where the pedal feels "mushy" or even a loss of braking.
The moisture effectively turns to steam with heavy braking and that creates pockets in the system and the pedal feels soft or could even go right to the floor
I use a DOT4 fluid in my 87. DOT 4 fluids typically have a higher wet boiling point and for extreme braking use like track days, you need a fluid that will resist boiling due to the heat generated by this type of braking. For steet use, a DOT3 fluid is fine.
DOT 5 fluid, which is a silicone base fluid is not recommended at all for ABS braking systems. Silicone fluid will cause cavitation in ABS systems from the rapid pulsating of the ABS pump and that can result in loss of braking power.

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The Castrol LMA is also a great fluid to use and that is available at most parts stores.
This list of fluids and their wet/dry boiling points was posted some time ago:
BRAND................... Wet Boiling Point.......Dry Boiling Point
Castrol SRF....................518.............. ..........590
MOTUL 600....................421.............. ..........585
AP-600.........................410......... ................572
ATE Super Blue...............392.................. ......536
ATE TYP 200..................392................ ........536
Valvoline........................333.... ....................513
Castrol LMA....................311.............. ..........446
Ford HD.........................290.......... ..............550
Wildwood 570.................284................. .......570
PFC Z-Rated...................284............. ...........550
AP-550..........................284........ ................550
DOT3 rated fluids are the Castrol LMA and below, above that is DOT4 fluids.
The wet boiling point is the value to be concerned with for choosing a fluid where you are concerned with the possibility of boiling the fluids on a track.
(The ATE Super Blue and the TYP 200 fluids are the same except for the color; the TYP200 is a gold color so if you flush fluids frequenty, you can simply change betweent he two and when the different color comes out, you have flushed all the old fluids)



It doesn't turn black after a couple of days on the dragon
seeya
Wet boiling point tends to be the most imporant number for most of us as we do not change fluid for every race. The wet BP is the temp the fluid will boil after it has absorbed water from the atmosphere.
Dry boiling point is the BP right out of the can. As you can see from the list above, high dry BP does not always mean high wet BP.
Last edited by ScaryFast; Mar 13, 2006 at 07:48 PM. Reason: Gross negligence
This leads one to contemplate the type of liquid that is used as brake fluid. In theory, even simple water would work – since, being a liquid, water cannot be compressed. However, it is important to remember that the fundamental function of the braking system is to convert kinetic energy into heat energy through friction. And the reality of this process is that certain parts of the braking system will be exposed to very high temperatures. In fact, it is not uncommon to see rotor temperatures during a race as high as 1200 degrees Fahrenheit – which can raise the temperature of the brake fluid to well over 300 degrees Fahrenheit. Since the boiling point of water is 212 degrees Fahrenheit, it is easy to see that water within the brake system could boil easily – and therefore release gases into the brake pipes – which would reduce the efficiency of the system. (Water would also present a big problem in cold weather if it froze to ice!)

It’s great to find posts like this from people who have done the research and have the knowledge. There are many areas to get smart about, this is just one. Thanks
Brake fluid is hydroscopic; it will absorb moisture out of the air which in turn causes rust and corrosion in the brake system and that moisture (water) will boil when the fluid gets hot resulting in reduced braking power even to the point where the pedal feels "mushy" or even a loss of braking.
The moisture effectively turns to steam with heavy braking and that creates pockets in the system and the pedal feels soft or could even go right to the floor
I use a DOT4 fluid in my 87. DOT 4 fluids typically have a higher wet boiling point and for extreme braking use like track days, you need a fluid that will resist boiling due to the heat generated by this type of braking. For steet use, a DOT3 fluid is fine.
DOT 5 fluid, which is a silicone base fluid is not recommended at all for ABS braking systems. Silicone fluid will cause cavitation in ABS systems from the rapid pulsating of the ABS pump and that can result in loss of braking power.
Regular flushing of the (DOT3 or DOT4) brake system with fresh fluid from a freshly-opened container helps to keep the moisture gremlins at bay, minimizing the damage (corrosion) to hydraulic system components that this moisture can cause, and helping to maintain the high boiling point of the fluid. Don't neglect this routine maintenance procedure.
Be well,
SJW





Larry
code5coupe

Larry
code5coupe
I'll bet you lunch on it.Water is more compressible than seawater, and less compressible than oil. If you want some killer brake fluid, use some quicksilver.





I owe CC lunch at Rubio's on a technicality.
Liquids are considered "relatively incompressible". At the pressures attainable in a car's braking system, we can, for all practical purposes, consider brake fluid, water, etc. incompressible, but..in reality...they will compress a certain amount.
I was wrong.
Larry
code5coupe








