C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Runs Bad When Hot

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Old Mar 12, 2006 | 02:46 PM
  #1  
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Default Runs Bad When Hot

My LT-1 runs super when cold.
When it warns up it is like is leaning out and the car almost stalls out off the line. once it is rollin it runs strong Also it won't pass emissions, too high HC's.
I have recenly replaced optispark, coil, distributor, wires, plugs, fuel injectors. O2 senors working and system isn't throwing any codes. Tried exchanging Mass Air Sensor to no avail.
The only thing I can thing of I computer?
Any ideas or tests?
Thanks
Ken
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Old Mar 12, 2006 | 02:48 PM
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Does the car over heat?
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Old Mar 12, 2006 | 03:14 PM
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Air pump may be continuing to pump air to the headers and the O2's will sense that extra air as a lean condition and dump in a bunch of fuel. HC's skyrocket. Pinch off the air hoses at the headers to see if it goes away. Also make sure that the header checkvalves are in good shape. You should only be able to blow air through them in the direction of the header.
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Old Mar 12, 2006 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Phantom90
Does the car over heat?
No car runs warm 220 but does not overheat.
Thanks
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 01:36 AM
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Do you have any mods to the engine?
You need to fill out your sig.
See if the seal is good on the map sensor at the front of the intake.
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 12:00 PM
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How does it start after its reached operating temps?
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ken93vette
No car runs warm 220 but does not overheat.
Thanks

Does the car just feel less peppy or is there actually a driveablity problem with the car?
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ken93vette
My LT-1 runs super when cold.
When it warns up it is like is leaning out and the car almost stalls out off the line. once it is rollin it runs strong Also it won't pass emissions, too high HC's.
I have recenly replaced optispark, coil, distributor, wires, plugs, fuel injectors. O2 senors working and system isn't throwing any codes. Tried exchanging Mass Air Sensor to no avail.
The only thing I can thing of I computer?
Any ideas or tests?
Thanks
Ken
Interesting thread - I took my car out on saturday for it's first decent run in a couple of months and experienced a similar problem. It ran great until I parked it after 25 minutes of tooling around. Then, it was hard to start and barely maintained idle.
I've been working the last couple of days and couldn't see if it would repeat.
Mine sat for a bit ( maybe a month or so) and I'm hoping for some bad gas.
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 10:06 PM
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or-lifters, that's why I asked how it started after it reached operating temps.
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 03:14 AM
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Originally Posted by REDC4CORVETTE
Do you have any mods to the engine?
You need to fill out your sig.
See if the seal is good on the map sensor at the front of the intake.
I don't beleive there are any mechanical mods to the engine. The engine runs real smooth and quiet at idle. Don't know if it might have been chipped?
Thanks
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 03:15 AM
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Originally Posted by rick lambert
How does it start after its reached operating temps?
Car always starts right away.
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 03:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Alvin
Does the car just feel less peppy or is there actually a driveablity problem with the car?
Engine only really has a problem off the line, cann't tell either flooding out or starved for fuel. Once it gets rolling it will lay down rubber easily in 3 gears and pull strong all the way into 5th to over 100. That's why I say it feels much stonger than my 93 Aniversary. Oh, I forgot to mention it will occasionally let out a huge backfire trying to get going if it is going to stall out. It especially doesn't like the dyno at the emisions center. Fortunately they were good guys to stick with the test long enough to give me a print-out to show where it was failing.
Thanks
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 08:57 AM
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Try looking at the EGR valve, your promlems sound like what I went through last summer.

Hook a vacuum gauge up to the old EGR, if it holds a vacumm you're OK, if not put on a new EGR valve
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 09:56 PM
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Sounds to me like the throttle stop isn't set right, like it's closed too much and the IAC is dialed out to fix the idle. Then when you crack the throttle the burst of airflow causes a lean burp. It needs to be open a certain amount at idle so that air is already flowing past it when you hit the gas pedal. Could also be a leaking fuel pressure regulator sucking gas into the vacuum line, it sometimes won't throw a fuel trim code.
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Old Mar 18, 2006 | 10:44 AM
  #15  
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Thanks for al your suggestions. Trottle position OK, air pump & EGR OK. Checking the voltage from he coil it is Ok and it is getting to the spark plugs when cold, when the engine heats up the voltage to the spark plug DROPS by 70% yet the voltage output from the coil remains good. When you shut the enngine off and restart it the voltage to the plugs is OK for about 30 seconds then drops again and the engine has problems again. Any ideas on where this power drain could be, as mentioned earlier replaced coil and opti-spark.
Thanks again for everyones input.
ken
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 10:12 PM
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OK the solution has been found!!
It was a defective distributor which had been replaced last October
Thanks for everyones help.
Ken
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 11:24 PM
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i'm having a similar problem on my '85 L98. It runs fine until engine temps get up to about 180 degrees or higher, then the rpms will drop to about 350-500 and it sounds like it wants to stall. Could a broken vacuum hose from the intake manifold to the evaporative canister cause this?
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