C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Bypassing knock sensor? And.......reducing e/t's.

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Old Mar 18, 2006 | 10:12 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Sinister87
lowering the crown nuts on your spring, to help with weight transfer(this gave me 3/th's at the track)
Please explain . . . By lower do you mean looseing them to make them and the rear of the car lower to the ground???
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Old Mar 18, 2006 | 11:05 PM
  #22  
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Yes, lower the crown nuts on the bolts,this gives the rear leaf spring more suspension travel, helping weight transfer. This advice was given to me several years ago (1997) by Ron Bilyeu, owner of Pro Auto Tech, out of FT. Myers FL, Anyways he was one of the pioneers with getting L98's fast, one of the first to go 11's. He use to test TPIS's stuff and ran down in the low 11's with a 355 L98 last I heard, of course that was back in 1997 I believe. He has been featured in CORVETTE FEVER MAGAZINE, along with being in the back of TPIS's catalog. He also has his own catalog along with an 11 sec recipe book he sells. No I'm not advertising.



Anyway's long story short, this mod along with drag radials gave me a solid 3/th's at the track. My 60ft was reduced from a 2.021 to an 1.883 and the et went from a 13.026@108.81 to an 12.74@108.64. Yes the tires helped but with these two mods, one being free, I gained 3/th's back in 1997. Hope this clear's it up.
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Old Mar 18, 2006 | 11:17 PM
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Been thinking again, another trick from back in the day before you had all these aftermarket shock choices, was to get some worn out high mileage shocks from an earlier year vette 85 or 86 and put these on your car. They acted like a drag shock and helped with weight transfer, this was strictly for dragging the car though.
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Old Mar 18, 2006 | 11:52 PM
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Just looked back at my notes, I keep track of everything and Ron advised me to lower the crown nuts 3/4's from the stock setting, thankyooou.
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 02:20 PM
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I'll ask again. Would open headers cause the knock sensor to send a signal to the computer? Also, would opening the headers cause the tune to be drastically different, saying it was tuned with the exhaust running through the pipes and mufflers? TIA.

Rich K
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 11:20 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by JOHN89
You can put a toggle switch on the ground wire for the knock sensor module. This is the only way to bypass the knock sensor without throwing a code or SES light. It is located on the passenger side under the hood near the passengers door. This will allow full ignition advance so be careful! I installed it on my 89 because I suspected false knock due to my headers. I was correct and yes I did pick up over 1/10 in the 1/4 mi. I still have the switch installed but I don't use it much.

John

On my 86, I wired in a resistor to simulate the reading and fool the computer by giving it the reading it was looking for. That totally bypassed the knock sensor and didn't cause a code to set.

Jake
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 11:36 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by thirdtimevetteowner
I'll ask again. Would open headers cause the knock sensor to send a signal to the computer? Also, would opening the headers cause the tune to be drastically different, saying it was tuned with the exhaust running through the pipes and mufflers? TIA.

Rich K
Running with open headers shouldn't effect the knock sensor.

The operative word here is "drastically". Yes, the tune will change. When running with open headers, the A/F ratio will lean out due to increased exhaust scavenging.

Without testing, how much it'll change is anyone's guess. There are several variables that have to be factored in. Header tube lengths, bends, and diameter; collector length, diameter, camshaft duration and overlap, etc.

Now, whether this will help or hurt depends on the tune.

If the tune is on the lean edge, going leaner while running open headers can definitely hurt the engine if the A/F ratio goes too lean for too long.

If the tune was on the safe (richer) edge, the leaning should increase power.

All depends.

Just my thoughts.

Jake
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 12:38 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by JAKE
On my 86, I wired in a resistor to simulate the reading and fool the computer by giving it the reading it was looking for. That totally bypassed the knock sensor and didn't cause a code to set.

Jake
Jake - What Ohm resistor did you use? 100K?
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 01:10 PM
  #29  
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There is an excellent article on this very question in the most recent issue of GM Hi Tech Performance. The article name is Detonation! Essentially whenever the knock sensor detects a "knock" (I think usually not heard by our ears) for whatever reason, it retards the timing. They agree that a switch to bypass the knock sensor can (not "will") pick up some ET (if there is retarding going on for whatever reason). A simple solution if it is caused by pre igition is to run 100 octane. And if that does not work, there is something more serious than timing and octane causing the problem
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 03:17 PM
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 05:09 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by byebyeL98
Jake - What Ohm resistor did you use? 100K?
I just checked my PC hard drive in the hope that I saved the resistor info but I couldn't find it.

I did find the part number for an ESC module that Gordon Killebrew recommends - 16038331 (Wells cross reference RSC108) that he says reduces sensitivity to false knock.

I took his advice and bought the new ESC module and, at the same time, removed the resistor.

I'm going into the garage now to check to see if I still have the package the resistor came in. I installed it a couple of years ago, so I don't know if I still have the package.

If I recall correctly, I got the specific info on which resistor to use from the ThirdGen.org site. If you log-in and do a search you may come across it.

I'll let you know what the garage search turns up.

Jake
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 05:18 PM
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Don't use a resistor. Put a toggle switch on the ground wire (pin D) to the knock sensor module. Ground disconnected gives no knock retard (switch off). Ground connected (switch on) normal knock retard operation. This is the way to go. It will help determine if you have false knock.
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 05:20 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by thirdtimevetteowner
I'll ask again. Would open headers cause the knock sensor to send a signal to the computer? Also, would opening the headers cause the tune to be drastically different, saying it was tuned with the exhaust running through the pipes and mufflers? TIA.

Rich K
Yes open headers will cause false knock on a stock unmodified knock sensor.
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 05:26 PM
  #34  
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Back from the garage.

Nope, didn't find the package but I did find two of the resisitors that had been in it. The resistors I bought came in a package of five and I still have two left (at least that's all I found in my search).

They are light blue in color. There is a wide dark blue stripe, then a thin red stripe then two wide red stripes. There are no numbers that I can make out.

Maybe someone who's familiar with these suckas can decode it for you.

Sorry I couldn't help more.

Jake
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 06:41 PM
  #35  
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Early C4 ecm's do not check for the knock sensor- therefore no code is thrown- as CFI-EFI implied (and I personally experienced). Although this may only apply to L83 and early L98 ecm's.

Last edited by mikey whipreck; Apr 12, 2006 at 06:44 PM.
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 07:00 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by mikey whipreck
Early C4 ecm's do not check for the knock sensor- therefore no code is thrown- as CFI-EFI implied (and I personally experienced). Although this may only apply to L83 and early L98 ecm's.
By "early" you must be referring to pre 1986 systems.

For the 86, code 43 sets and indicates the ESC circuit failed the start-up functional check. When the engine is first started the system performs a functional check by advancing the spark timing. The SES dash light will illuminate and remain on until the ignition is turned off or until a knock signal is detected.

Although I don't believe the original poster stated this, but I believe he has an 87. Correct me if I'm wrong on that.

Jake
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Old Apr 13, 2006 | 12:12 PM
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Several years ago I spent a lot of time researching and trying to trick the GM knock sensors.

1) The resistor trick will not work.
a) I've tested it.
b) The KS circuit has a band pass filter that looks at the frequency
of the signal, not the amplitude. Resistors effect amplitude, not
frequency.
2) You cannot hear the knock that destroys an engine. Ask me how I
know. It was an $8000 mistake I won't make again.
3) The knock sensor IS sensitive to other than just engine knock noise.
I had no end of grief because I was getting knock retard when I
shifted due to my dual mass flywheel. I was able to see it on my
Diacom.
4) Unless you REALLY KNOW what your doing, don't mess with the KS.



Larry
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