Where is best place to find information on self preping a C4 convertible prior to delivery to a paint shop? Or, is the extra effort worth it, i.e. $500 savings? For black over original black, is single step (no clear coat) okay for show quality?

 

There are some books readily available at any library and in some automovtive shops that cover some of the basics and some of the advanced paint prep techniques used today. It really depends on what level of "prep" you want to do. If you remove all the emblems, trim, weatherstrip, outer door wipes, spoiler, lights, etc. then you'll get a better looking paintjob than if you didn't, especially if you replace some of the parts you removed with new ones. If you go further and begin the cleaning process, washing, dewaxing and degreasing the jams, under the fenders, and the overall paint surface, it will improve the adhesion of the new paint. If you go even further and featheredge all the chips with, let's say, 400 grit then prime with a quality catalylized and topcoat compatible primer and sand again, and mask off the typical areas that get overspayed then you will have done a nice job of prepping the surface for the new paint. The paint shop will probably do a final cleaning and sanding of the surface for their own satisfaction. I would expect them to seal the surface then apply the paint. A 2 stage base/clearcoat looks significantly better and when followed with what is called "color-sanding", you'll definintely have a nice finish. A single stage paint will reveal some orange peel even if the painter can lay it as flat as possible. It's not recommended to colorsand a single stage. It will not look as good as a properly completed base/clear paintjob. 2 stage is more expensive and with a quality prep job will last a long time. It's totally up to you. I'm sure some other members will post their opinions also.

Here's a link to some automotive painting books, there's plenty of them out there. Again, a visit to you local library will be fulfilling.

http://www.motolit.com/cars-repair-body.html

Art

 

Just keep in mind that the more work you do gives the body shop more excuses for a poor job. Sanding can leave waves in the finish, there are very few flat surfaces on these cars.

 

I do all my own paint work, and am working on a black '90 vert as well. Black is the hardest color to get right and straight. Any imperfection or slightest wave or sanding grooves you leave will show up and be magnified by the black paint. oh and if you want anything other than a daily driver paint job, go with base coat/clear coat.

You can try this sight I've browsed through it a couple times before and it seemed to be accurate and helpful at the time.

http://www.autobodystore.com/

 

are you taking off all the body parts you can hood front, rear bumpers and such off of the vert?

 

John Kosmoski has a god book that is available. It is called Custom Painting Secrets I think and it goes through all aspects of the painting process. If you know what manufacturer will be supplying the paint for the job they will have tech manuals that outline the specific processes for their product. PM me if you have any direct questions as I have been a painter for 5 years now that deals mostly in vettes. As for your questions, you want to go with a base clear job, doing the prep yourself is a good way to save money on labor. Again feel free to ask any questions you have about this as it is not a hard as some would like you to believe!

 

yes you could say that lol

http://www.huntforpro.com/Chris/small078.jpg
http://www.huntforpro.com/Chris/small080.jpg

 

this is my current project 90 ZR1

 

YEP, that's a project alright!

 

Thats an all to familiar sight lol, glad I'm way past that stage now. I was running out of room to put the parts and the S/O was getting a little irritated with me storing half the car in the front room of the house.

 

I'd say just put a little air in the tires and fire her up.