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right... let's use 500 cost plus 20% profit. or 600..... that's 10k for selling 100 sets.
now take the same 500 cost and mark it up 300% , you only need to sell 10 sets to get to 10k.
we all know how appreciative forum members are when they have satisfaction with a product.
10 people (who can afford 1500) for a set of headers, prob are not going to give you the exposure of 100 happy, satisfied corvette enthusiasts running around the country lauding the praises of your company and showing off your product under their hood. did i do the math right?
i used 500. i don't have a clue of the true cost do you? And I'm not talking about carb cert. I don't need it here in fl..
right... let's use 500 cost plus 20% profit. or 600..... that's 10k for selling 100 sets.
now take the same 500 cost and mark it up 300% , you only need to sell 10 sets to get to 10k.
we all know how appreciative forum members are when they have satisfaction with a product.
10 people (who can afford 1500) for a set of headers, prob are not going to give you the exposure of 100 happy, satisfied corvette enthusiasts running around the country lauding the praises of your company and showing off your product under their hood. did i do the math right?
i used 500. i don't have a clue of the true cost do you? And I'm not talking about carb cert. I don't need it here in fl..
20% is not realistically a good markup for something like this, more along the lines of 35-40% is what they're likely shooting for. You have to take into account the R&D time as a factor when creating something for market. 35% is a realistic amount, with a group purchase or forum special type arrangement selling at 20-25% at their discretion. You have to remember that the typical end-user is going to do the install, or find a shop that will do so, and thus the reason for the above markup as the manufacturer cannot get labor charges.
A shop that's selling something like this can cut the markup, or even give it away at cost (not too good for the bottom line) if they can make it up doing the installation. $10K is a drop in the bucket for a manufacturer, though it looks impressive for the guy building the car (10 grand is a lot of money to me, don't get me wrong), and if the market only allows for a small amount such as that, then this product will likely never see the light of day (too many other choices out there already!).
I spent about the same as LT4 bud did and would have spent a little more for stainless 1 7/8" headers. However, my EMs have been holding up pretty well.
If your bolt on kit would have been out when I was looking for headers I would have spent 1,500 to 1,700 US dollars for it.
If you could get two cats to work with a LT header and a C4 exhaust that is reasonable. And Merge collectors. YES
I have DRM stainless 1 3/4 headers and they bolt right up to the Cat Back, but no cats. Would be nice to get some installed.
But, why are headers so darn expensive, there is no reason for it, especially if non emissions. Theres no real R&D involved. Get a set of headers that fit, and use them as a template. How difficult is that, and to charge 1000-1500 bucks for headers, for 30 dollars worth of pipe and a couple hours of welding. Too damn much.IMHO
carmen
what the guy dont seem to get is there are headers and then there are headers. if you take the every day run of the mill headers up against a real set of header they will see the power difference. you get what you pay for in headers. not all headers are equal. if you dont think a set of stahl headers will show better # you will be wrong.
regards
Last edited by bacardioil; Apr 10, 2006 at 10:07 PM.
Yes, I am in the market for some 1 3/4. Make sure collector back is all 3", including X!! I have been waiting for someone to come out with the C5 style complete system like the LG's, Kooks, Super Maxx, etc. I think you can get th Supermaxx system for about $1200, long tubes, high flow cats, X pipe, clamps, etc. no fitment issues, piecing together, etc. This would take all the guess work out of it, and trying to match various sizes, materials, and have someone weld it together. Like some others have said, add it up and the current piece meal exhaust cost around $1200 and is probably not near as nice, all SS, etc.
Make sure they fit well with not issue like moving bolts around, denting pipes, etc.
Also just offer the headers only for around $600 or less for those who already have old headers,high flow cats, x pipes, cat backs, etc.
Maybe offer a SS and coated mild steel versions for the high end and mid priced markets.
carmen
what the guy dont seem to get is there are headers and then there are headers. if you take the every day run of the mill headers up against a real set of header they will see the power difference. you get what you pay for in headers. not all headers are equal. if you dont think a set of stahl headers will show better # you will be wrong.
regards
Thats a different debate. If I put Stahl headers up against my DRM (which were made by Watson, who made ZR1 headers), against TPIS, and Exotic Muscle etc on a Hot Cammed 350LT1 or a mild L98, there will be virtually no difference in gains. Now when you get into higher HP motors, lets say for arguments sake 475 hp and up, you will start to see differences, when the headers are tuned to the engine. So, a set of Hooker headers against my DRM 1 3/4 stainless headers on a mild motor with cat back exhaust there will hardly be a COST effective gain. Only on Higher hp engines will you see the difference.
With longevity, coated and stainless are the way to go, but when it comes to HP a 1 3/4 toa 1 3/4 will make virtually no difference in gains. Look at the C5/C6 section for all the header arguments, its endless. Just get the ones that fit good and are easiest to install and be happy. If you need that NTH degree of power, then the whole package from Air Cleaner to exit of exhaust will need to be taken into account.
And for LT1s there is no header better than the DRM header as it is a true bolt in with no cutting, welding, recoating etc. They bolt in, fit great are Stainless Steel 1 3/4 and bolt up to all cat back systems for the LT1. IMHO .
304 stainless? 310 or 316 would stand up to heat better. (primary use fire tube recovery boiler, where temp can reach 1200f))or better yet ferilium series 3..2% chrome, takes temp to 2000F..
yikes did i sat that?
1500.00 hundred, is that a small price for the added maybe 30 hp ? may be a good investment if it were a show car...
How about 1 3/4 long tubes with High flow RT cats that are the appropriate length to bolt right up to cat back systems. I think that everyone with a B&B or corsa has had to fabricate piping to mate the systems to headers and cats.. all extra work. if the longtubes had cats already and were the length needed to bolt right up to cat back systems.. would be beuatiful imo !