C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Tricks for passing emissions

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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 02:09 PM
  #21  
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Or you could just find a shop that charges twice what the rest charge, but meybe doesn't stick the probe into the tailpipe when they run it
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 03:23 PM
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Do you know any shops in S.D. county? Everytime I get a recommendation, they don't budge at all, all I end up is dropping names and trying to see if I can bribe them for the next go around. And these recommended shops are never the cheapest. I guess I must look like a smog narc.

My car is legal right now, but I want headers dammit.

I happened upon a guy in SLO that didn't even pop the hood for the visual.
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 07:15 PM
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One tip is to not turn off the car. If they do make sure you wait for x seconds to get back to closed loop before they start the test. I forget what x is. I think something like 30 seconds for a hot engine.
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 07:35 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Kinkajou
The number one recomendation is to drive the car for a while, until it is at operating temperature. If possible, even a little more.
You should not turn the ignition off, keep the engine running if possible so when the car is tested the catalitic converter will be very hot.
Catalitic converter contain rare metals that will burn what was left unburned.

Changing timing is sometimes usefull.
The air filter must be as new as possible. This is very important.
Spark plugs in good condition, with the gap properly adjusted. Wires should be checked to see if the resistance is correct.
The car should have the pcv valve working perfectly without getting stuck. Fuel tank cap fitting perfectly and all hoses ( including vaccum ) should be in good condition.

If the car is fuel injection and computer controlled you should run it as lean as possible at least for the test because this could lead to detonation.

We almost all ways have to change something back after the test to get cars to run right when we change a setting, so i agree.


The five things that we have to do most often to get a car to pass in order are.
1. catalytic convertor (NOX and HC)
2. EGR components (NOX)
3. Ignition components. (HC)
4. Fuel system components (NOX and HC)
5. Motor oil

This is not all inclusive, but for the most part, repairs to the above fix most problems on OBD1 cars.
In Georgia on OBD2 cars, it is EVAP then misfire problems more than any thing else.
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 07:51 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
Do you know any shops in S.D. county? Everytime I get a recommendation, they don't budge at all, all I end up is dropping names and trying to see if I can bribe them for the next go around. And these recommended shops are never the cheapest. I guess I must look like a smog narc.

My car is legal right now, but I want headers dammit.

I happened upon a guy in SLO that didn't even pop the hood for the visual.
I hear you on that, i have been in the same location since 92-93, we do a ton of repairs for other shops and some dealerships on emission problems, but we do not test here.

Do you have to have EO #'s where you are at?

You would think as many cars as we take to the emissions test facility, they might be willing to look the other way on my personal cars, but i guess $100.00 does not do much when they are looking at what i think is a $15,000.00 fine.

The brother of a guy that ran my office for years ran a test facility in the county just north of us, he got caught, 2 times i think, he is no longer in the business. In Georgia they have a lot of people that spend all day going to test facilities trying to bribe and trick operators. It may be entrapment, but it is defiantly working here

The reason we do not test here is because i could not make economic sense of it, we do have every thing we need to test 4 gases, but not NOX.

What is in my opinion the hardest car (no exotics) to make pass? Any carbed Hondas, especially the twin carbed ones.
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