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I have changed 7 of my 8 spark plugs with Bosh pltnms +4s. Still working on #8 cylinder. The car has 98K, and I'm wondering if I should go ahead and replace the spark plug wires while I'm half way there. If anyone thinks so, is there a preference to what type of plug wires I should use?
Were the old spark plug wires hard to remove from the plugs? Sometimes heat / corrosion will cause the boots and / or the terminal ends to stick to the plugs pretty damn good. If you are not careful when removing them from the plug, you can wind up separating the core from the terminal ends. Wires that were once good, are no more.
You can check them for resistance / continuity if you think you may have damaged any, or simply replace them.
Yeah there was visbile corrosion on almost all of the ends. The manual says to check resistance is less than 30,000 ohms, but I figure if I go through that trouble I just might as well replace the wires.
The plugs were also very hard to get out of the block. Gaps were way out of spec at .065 on most of them, and some of the plugs had the lost the little 'nub' on the tip.
You can use an OHM meter to check them-they should read right around 5000 OHMs per foot, and use some dialectric grease inside the boots-makes it easier to put on and remove. I've been using Belden
8mm plug wires-not the best but good enough.Don't waste your money on fancy plugs, sounds like one of the pucks came off as normal, you would be happy with ACDelcos or NGKs.
Last edited by rick lambert; Mar 25, 2006 at 10:35 PM.
And don't forget a little boaters trick. Put a little dielectric silicone lubricant on the plug ceramic before pushing the new wires on. Seals out moisture, slips on easier and removal at next 100,000 will be easier.
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
I loved the Taylor wires that I got from Summit. Well made, easy to get hold of the boots due to their design and a nice positive "click" when they lock on to the plug.
With a stock engine, I'd consider stock GM wires. The lengths are right for the application, all the little wire guides should fit, (except the ones I usually break during removal).
If you like different colors, those are available from several sources.
I typically get 70K out of stock wires and replace them for therapy.
Were the old spark plug wires hard to remove from the plugs? Sometimes heat / corrosion will cause the boots and / or the terminal ends to stick to the plugs pretty damn good. If you are not careful when removing them from the plug, you can wind up separating the core from the terminal ends. Wires that were once good, are no more.
You can check them for resistance / continuity if you think you may have damaged any, or simply replace them.
Yeah there was visbile corrosion on almost all of the ends. The manual says to check resistance is less than 30,000 ohms, but I figure if I go through that trouble I just might as well replace the wires.
The plugs were also very hard to get out of the block. Gaps were way out of spec at .065 on most of them, and some of the plugs had the lost the little 'nub' on the tip.
I just did the ones on my 90. I bought it two weeks ago and a tune up was needed. Who ever did wires last put KEMs on there and they were not something I would have done.
I went with Autolight Irridiums with the MSD 8.5's. Direct fit on those. Them I added on the Accel cap/rotor and HEI Supercoil. Had the coil laying around unused so might as well. All it was doing was collecting dust.
The plugs I pulled out were "well broken in" and appeared to be the originals.
I have noticed a big difference in throttle response. But then again I should with a fresh tune up!