Brake pad replacement question
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Littleton CO
Brake pad replacement question
If I'm removing the caliper mounting brackets in order to replace rotors (doing front & rear), do the calipers need to be removed from the brackets in order to replace the pads?
Did lots of searches recently to learn how to do the job, but never saw a specific reference to that.
Did lots of searches recently to learn how to do the job, but never saw a specific reference to that.
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Originally Posted by jrp
If I'm removing the caliper mounting brackets in order to replace rotors (doing front & rear), do the calipers need to be removed from the brackets in order to replace the pads?
Did lots of searches recently to learn how to do the job, but never saw a specific reference to that.
Did lots of searches recently to learn how to do the job, but never saw a specific reference to that.
If you re use original bolts, or even use new bolts, you might want to use loctite blue or red
seeya
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From: Exit 89 GSP,Lakewood,NJ The Land Of Mojo
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If you are just changing the pads, you only need to remove the e-clip on the pin, slide the pin out(at the bottom of the caliper) and pop the caliper off, remove the pads, replace.
No need to remove the bracket unless you are changing the rotor.
No need to remove the bracket unless you are changing the rotor.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,193
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From: Cincinnati Oh
Originally Posted by Mr Mojo
If you are just changing the pads, you only need to remove the e-clip on the pin, slide the pin out(at the bottom of the caliper) and pop the caliper off, remove the pads, replace.
No need to remove the bracket unless you are changing the rotor.
No need to remove the bracket unless you are changing the rotor.
On the J55 brakes there is a pin with a C-clip on the bottome of the caliper, pull that out and the caliper will come out on it's own.
However, the rears and some fronts have two bolts that hold the calipers in - if that's the case then you remove the top bolt and loosen the bottom (15mm wrench?) and the caliper will "fold" out allowing you to swap out the pads.
Just take a look and you'll see what we mean.
Last edited by Ramanstud; Apr 2, 2006 at 12:34 PM.
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From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
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The later front caliper design uses the c-clip as mentioned, Pull the clip and side the pin out and the caliper lifts right off.
The front bracket bolts are tightened to 165 +/- 15 ft-lbs so you will need a good sized breaker bar to loosen the two bolts. They are a 21mm size, so you may have to find a socket for that.
You can re-use the old front bracket bolts by cleaning off the factory threadlocker and applying some Loctite Blue. I torque mine to 150 ft-lbs in two steps.
The rear calipers are held in place by two guide pin bolts and the bracket is attached by two bolts in a similar fashion to the fronts. The parking brake cable is hooked on a lever at the caliper. The bracket bolts are smaller and can be reused like the front ones. Re-torque the bracket bolts to 70 ft-lbs. Tighten the upper guide pin bolt to 26 ft-lb and the lower bolt to 16 ft-lb.
The front bracket bolts are tightened to 165 +/- 15 ft-lbs so you will need a good sized breaker bar to loosen the two bolts. They are a 21mm size, so you may have to find a socket for that.
You can re-use the old front bracket bolts by cleaning off the factory threadlocker and applying some Loctite Blue. I torque mine to 150 ft-lbs in two steps.
The rear calipers are held in place by two guide pin bolts and the bracket is attached by two bolts in a similar fashion to the fronts. The parking brake cable is hooked on a lever at the caliper. The bracket bolts are smaller and can be reused like the front ones. Re-torque the bracket bolts to 70 ft-lbs. Tighten the upper guide pin bolt to 26 ft-lb and the lower bolt to 16 ft-lb.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: backwoods upstate ny
re:powdercoat...most powdercaot is ''oven baked'' to cure at 300* or more (there are some ''low-bake'' powders available but not common)...so you should not powder complete caliper assembled--you'll need ''rebuild kits''
you'll only need to bleed after reinstalling the calipers if you plan on driving the car...actually a piece of brownie if you get "speed-bleeders" (<$40 for all 4 wheels)
you'll only need to bleed after reinstalling the calipers if you plan on driving the car...actually a piece of brownie if you get "speed-bleeders" (<$40 for all 4 wheels)
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,753
Likes: 15
From: backwoods upstate ny
re:powdercoat...most powdercaot is ''oven baked'' to cure at 300* or more (there are some ''low-bake'' powders available but not common)...so you should not powder complete caliper assembled--you'll need ''rebuild kits''
you'll only need to bleed after reinstalling the calipers if you plan on driving the car...actually a piece of brownie if you get "speed-bleeders" (<$40 for all 4 wheels)
you can get high-temp spray can paint made for brake caliper at most discount auto parts stores...do ''clear coat'' second coat and most experts can't tell from powder...don't get brake fluid on the spray can stuff tho
you'll only need to bleed after reinstalling the calipers if you plan on driving the car...actually a piece of brownie if you get "speed-bleeders" (<$40 for all 4 wheels)
you can get high-temp spray can paint made for brake caliper at most discount auto parts stores...do ''clear coat'' second coat and most experts can't tell from powder...don't get brake fluid on the spray can stuff tho
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 140
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From: Canton Ohio
Powdercoater is a forum member who says that he has never had any problems with the seals being damaged and that the oven temp. is well below the amount of heat needed to powdercoat. he even offers to rebuild the calipers for an adddtional $50.00 if any won is the least bit concerned. You said something about speed bleeders, would I get them at any local parts store and how do the work. 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,193
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From: Cincinnati Oh
speedbleeders dot com.
they have a chart for the sizes you need, I shelled out the extra $$ for stainless of the OEM type will work just fine. They'll be to your door within a week. I've had nothing but great experiences with the company AND the product. $8 x 4 for the basic speed bleeders, definitely worth it IMHO.
they have a chart for the sizes you need, I shelled out the extra $$ for stainless of the OEM type will work just fine. They'll be to your door within a week. I've had nothing but great experiences with the company AND the product. $8 x 4 for the basic speed bleeders, definitely worth it IMHO.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,753
Likes: 15
From: backwoods upstate ny
ok, most synthetic rubber/plastics start falling off at about 240* f and most powders bake at 300* f+,so i am concerned, but not in panic--if thats how the goats are being milked, been 10 years since i did my last powder paint system anyway.
speed bleeders are ''check valve'' device that replaces the bleeder screw on the caliper...fill master cylinder, put hose on end of speed bleeder, open bleeder 1/4 turn, SLOWLY pump brake pedal several times( 5 times on mine,verify on yours-do not run master cyl dry), tighten bleeder and go to next wheel, etc....one man operation,quick,gets 98% air out the first time.
speed bleeders are ''check valve'' device that replaces the bleeder screw on the caliper...fill master cylinder, put hose on end of speed bleeder, open bleeder 1/4 turn, SLOWLY pump brake pedal several times( 5 times on mine,verify on yours-do not run master cyl dry), tighten bleeder and go to next wheel, etc....one man operation,quick,gets 98% air out the first time.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 236
Likes: 0
From: Hudson FL
Originally Posted by Ramanstud
On the J55 brakes there is a pin with a C-clip on the bottome of the caliper, pull that out and the caliper will come out on it's own.
However, the rears and some fronts have two bolts that hold the calipers in - if that's the case then you remove the top bolt and loosen the bottom (15mm wrench?) and the caliper will "fold" out allowing you to swap out the pads.
Just take a look and you'll see what we mean.
