Greetings all;

So, by the time I get this working, I'll be a steering system expert. Originally, I had a loose steering column. So I took the uper housing apart, replaced the hub with the bearings, tightened the 4 wierd treverse torx bolts and put everything back together. Once back together, the column was still moving around. So, I took it all apart again, much faster this time.

Turns out the housing where the torx bolts are stilll moves around, even thought the bolts are tight. Seems like something might be broken. Any ideas?

Also, I notice when I turn left, the steering binds a bit. If I trun right, it's ok. Once I start the left hand trurn, there's a bind, then it goes OK. Is this a rack problem?

Thanks for any suggestions. As it stands, if I'm correct, I'm looking at another steering column, ebay, and maybe a new rack? Any help at all would be great.


Bob

 

If you are talking about the upper shaft being wobbly where the tilt elbow is located, it's probably just worn out. There are pins which connect the knuckle and holes they fit into get worn out either because someone has been using the wheel as a handle to exit the car or has allowed the wheel to "slam" into the 'up' position.

You can replace the part which is worn out - a whole lot of work, or you can look for a replacement upper steering shaft at a salvage yard. I did the latter with my '87 and it's not a bad job if you take your time.

I got a used upper steering column at a salvage yard for $300 or so. Then, I determined the VATS code of my present ignition key and bought a couple of blank keys with that code. When I got the replacement shaft, I had new keys cut for it with the proper VATS code. If you're lucky, you might get a shaft with the same VATS code and you can save the money on new keys ($25/ea.)

It's not hard to replace the column. One bolt under the hood on the shaft, 2 bolts on the firewal, a few electrical connections, and the disassembly of the kickpad. It helps to unbolt the accelerator pedal (2 nuts) to remove the shaft. Figure about 4 hours for the entire job and you don't have to dig into the column which is a PITA because those plastic parts are extremely brittle and break easily.

Be sure to disconnect the negative post on the battery before you start.

P.S. Can't help you on the steering binding up.

 

Thanks for the response. I had suspected the dang thing was plain warn out. When I bougt the car, the previous owner had a piece of plastic wedged between the column and the dash to hold it in place. I removed the plastic and the whole thing wobbled violently. I suspect the whell was used as an exit handle for about 10 years.

I've already got under the dash pulled apart. Guess I might as well remove the column and start hunting. Thanks again.

Oh yeah, on my original post, I forgot to mention, I have an 86 C4. I purchased as a fixerupper, and boy is it.


Bob

 

How do you determin VATS code for existing key? Should I bring the old key and new key to a GM dealer and tell them what I need, or is there a better way?


Bob