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Last night driving home hit the headlight and the pass side went half way up. I shut it off it went back down. Tried it again and the pass side did not open at all.
This is a used motor I had replace 5 months ago from a salvage yard. This time I decided to break it open. I have already searched the posts. (thanks for all the good info) The gears look fine, I cleaned the motor brushes and points. There is power at the connector with the lights on and off.
When I plugged in the motor in the first time it powered up spinning fast. I then realized that the metal clip that goes over the emergency **** was off. I put it back in place and plugged the motor back in. This time nothing. I still have power, but when the clip is over the emergency **** the motor will not move. I opened the motor up and everything is still in place. I plug it back in and get the same results. There is power but it seems that with the clip on, it will try to turn then will go dead. Any suggestions. Thanks
Last edited by pearlvette; Apr 9, 2006 at 10:06 AM.
The clip is used to hold the motor from moving when driving with the lights up and the power is disconnected from the motor. When the motors are powered and working you shouldn't use the clip. The clip prevents the motor from turning. With power on the motor and the clip on the motor the motor will automatically shut off because torque is applied to the limit switch causing the power to shut off. You're on the right track by cleaning the motor internal limit switch, contacts and motor armature. A thorough test of the power at the engine harness connector should be performed to ensure you have the correct voltage and polarity at the terminals. This ensures that your relays are good. Not only does the polarity reverse when you turn the lights on and off, the terminals in which the power is fed to the motor also changes. It's not simply power reversal on the same two terminals that causes the headlight to rotate.
Boy do I feel stupid. I just thought to look at the other side and the clip is not over the ****. I will check the voltage and polarity before I put it back on the car.
You mentioned you cleaned the internals. I've used a small strip of some very fine sandpaper like 600 or so wet and dry between the contacts to clean them. I then reversed the paper to do the other half of the contacts. Also, I've used a razor blade to clean in between the armature contacts on the rotating assembly then used some very fine sandpaper to clean the surface. Same thing with the brush contacts, I use fine sandpaper then blew everything out. A couple of times I had the headlight cover screw back out a little an hit the hood and stopped the motor, but that was pretty obvious what the problem was. Take a look to make sure you don't have any interference with the motor. Also, if the motor stops again halfway up, leave it there with the headlight switch on or off depending on when it happens and open the hood and try to turn the **** either way. If the motor suddenly continues to rotate then the problem is in the motor and not the relays. I say this because power is being applied to the motor. This doesn't mean that if the motor doesn' t rotate that it is the relays. The electrical tests of the relay output and polarity needs to be done to eliminate the relays as a source of the problem.