C-Beam/Engine removal...help?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 869
Likes: 1
From: Bradford Pa
C-Beam/Engine removal...help?
okay, day 3 has me ready to pull it out. hoist is attached and everything prepped for removal...
however, I am still wondering..how can I pull the c-beam? what is the best way? I know theres nuts on the top but how did you hold them still? did you lower the diff, loosen the motor mounts, etc...etc...
just loking for a few quick tips...I can have it out tonight in 20min...I'm that close...
however, I am still wondering..how can I pull the c-beam? what is the best way? I know theres nuts on the top but how did you hold them still? did you lower the diff, loosen the motor mounts, etc...etc...
just loking for a few quick tips...I can have it out tonight in 20min...I'm that close...
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 792
Likes: 1
From: Stanfield NC
Welcome from a former Kane resident! I cut a box end wrench in half and made my own special tool. Worked super. When you get all the bolts out of the C beam (remember to support the engine) slide the C beam toward the front of the car and toward the passenger side of the tunnel at the same time. The C beam will move far enough forward that it will disengage from the rear. When it is disengaged from the rear, gently lower the rear of the engine, which will also lower the back of the C beam and allow you to take it off completely. Works better for me than any other method I have tired. Be carefull of distributer to fire wall clearance when you lower the back of the engine or just remove the distributer first.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 4,870
Likes: 25
From: Long Island, NY
Originally Posted by Fubar569
okay, day 3 has me ready to pull it out. hoist is attached and everything prepped for removal...
however, I am still wondering..how can I pull the c-beam? what is the best way? I know theres nuts on the top but how did you hold them still? did you lower the diff, loosen the motor mounts, etc...etc...
just loking for a few quick tips...I can have it out tonight in 20min...I'm that close...
however, I am still wondering..how can I pull the c-beam? what is the best way? I know theres nuts on the top but how did you hold them still? did you lower the diff, loosen the motor mounts, etc...etc...
just loking for a few quick tips...I can have it out tonight in 20min...I'm that close...
I just went through this and everything is still fresh in my mind.
If you are just pulling the Motor, then there is no reason to remove the C Beam completely. Just
remove the front 2 bolts in the C beam and loosen the rear 2 bolts.
Use a 18mm wrench for the front bolts and a 21mm for the rear bolts.
It seems tight for the top bolts, but it is actually very easy.
Support the Tranny with some wood and a jack.
Vic
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,586
Likes: 2
From: Bardstown Kentucky
After doing this over 10 times in my car I have it down to a system. I can get an open ended wrench on top and use an impact gun to loosen the bottom. I am thinking 18MM and 21MM on the back. The rear bolts are easy, loosen the back one first, drop it out and then slide the wrench to the front one and continue the process. After that I slide the c beam as far as possible, some slight tapping will be needed to get it far enough. Once you get it as far as you can you pull the e brake cable up above the beam and slide the beam back, down, and out. Loosen the 5/16 bolts on the u-joint retainers, slide the driveshaft towards the tranny then pull it down in the back and slide it back and out. Use a tranny jack to support the tranny through all of this! Remove the nuts holding the slave cylinder and remove the cylinder. Loosen the 4 or 5 bolts that hold the tranny to the bellhousing and work the tranny back. Lower the starter, remove the dustcover, and then remove the bellhousing.
Before you do all of this the exhaust is removed and will give you access to the motor mount bolts. You may have to jack the engine up a little to get the drivers side one. My manifold was in the way...
I think I covered most of it...
A case of Beer always helps this project go smooth!
The Bomber
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 869
Likes: 1
From: Bradford Pa
I'm pulling motor & tranny in one piece. I have all C-Beam bolts out but didn't go any further as it was midnight and pretty dark out. i have the next 2 days off though...i anticipate first test fitment of the BBC on thursday. my motor plates should arrive tomorrow and i know i already have to modify the front 2 plates becaue they will land smack dab in the middle of the crossmember right where the suspension mounts. I'll have to fab brackets to go around at least one side of those.
i cut my e-brake cables because they're all froze and have to be replaced anyways...whoops...besides, track cars don't need e-brakes.
18 & 21mm? the front bolts on mine (D36) were 11/16 on the bolts up front and 13/16 out back...nuts were same size? oh well...they're out now and nothing's rounded so that's a good thing.
oh, the rear bolt on the Diff was especially tight. i had a 1/2" impact gun on full bore with 100+psi backing it and it still wouldn't come out. i had to wrench that myself...that sucked *****. time for a big bertha 1" impact and appropriate compressor...
as for distributor clearance, the entire top end of the motor has been removed so no worries, i can let it droop as far as i need to.
everything is going really smooth actually, but i do need to invest in major beer.
i cut my e-brake cables because they're all froze and have to be replaced anyways...whoops...besides, track cars don't need e-brakes.
18 & 21mm? the front bolts on mine (D36) were 11/16 on the bolts up front and 13/16 out back...nuts were same size? oh well...they're out now and nothing's rounded so that's a good thing.
oh, the rear bolt on the Diff was especially tight. i had a 1/2" impact gun on full bore with 100+psi backing it and it still wouldn't come out. i had to wrench that myself...that sucked *****. time for a big bertha 1" impact and appropriate compressor...
as for distributor clearance, the entire top end of the motor has been removed so no worries, i can let it droop as far as i need to.
everything is going really smooth actually, but i do need to invest in major beer.
Last edited by Fubar569; Apr 11, 2006 at 12:58 PM.
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 869
Likes: 1
From: Bradford Pa
either way they're out, and the C-beam might be out tonight if i can leave work early. if not, tomorow the motor & trans are out, the motor plates will be here and i expect a trial fit for the big block by the end of the week...
oh, anytips for doing thoe pesky bushings up front? i have the complete kit but i'm still not looking forward to them after the fight with the back half of the car...lol
oh, anytips for doing thoe pesky bushings up front? i have the complete kit but i'm still not looking forward to them after the fight with the back half of the car...lol