Sorry for the long post in advance

Alright so as yall know, every once in a while a guy comes along who loves these cars, but mechanically is as naturally comfortable with working on them as ... well they just arent. I can admit I dont know much about what Im doing, or need to do, under the hood but I do however, have the hope to try to learn one step at a time.

So after letting yall know that Im going to be another clueless nut Ill get on to the problem.

89 auto, 113k miles, daily driver. I plan on doing my best to take care of it so maybe Im going to be a little paranoid. However the "service engine soon" light is probably rarely just paranoia. It has only come one twice and both times only after an extended highway drive of constant speeds above 60 (but there have been far more than just 2 long highway drives). Also when its very well heated up and sitting at idle the rpm reads 500 and oil pressure will get down to 15 (thats the VERY lowesr it has gone) Lastly it sounds to me like its missing - car doesnt shake or feel any slower but seems to be constantly having very short second of no engine sound, when cruising down the highway I cant tell if its the same thing or if its just a bumpy road, but it seems clear when accelerating. As funny as this may sound to describe it this way, it almost sounds like a, brrrp (note the pause) brrrp, at ant time Im accelerating.

Finnally my questions

How can I figure out whats wrong on my own, as in what tools do I need and where can I get them? Also, of course, where do I start and is there just anything I need to know or anything yall can help point me in the right direction with.?

Thanks a lot in advance, and again sorry if the post is too long

 

First thing to get is a Field Service Manual for your year. Go here:
http://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp?r=

or eBay to get one. You will need it.

On to your problem....you need to find our what code was set. Read this to see how to get the code:

http://www.corvettephotographs.com/c4vettes/codes.htm

Then go here to see what you got:

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/....php?qstId=135

Post back with what you find (I'm betting on code 32).

A little maintainence history is needed - last plug/wire change, fuel filter change, throttle body cleaning, etc. for help with the driveability issue.

 

After you order the FSM (Factory (Field?) Service Manual, get a hold of a DVOM (Digital Volt-Ohm Meter). When something goes wrong, or when chasing the cause of a "Check Engine" light, follow the trouble shooting charts in the manual. It may take a while to get familiar with the book, but it can easily save you HUNDREDS of dollars.

RACE ON!!!

 

The manual will help tons!

 

ok yes its 32 - which as I see is said to be an EGR system failure


fuel filter, fuel lines, and pump should have all been either inspected or replaced about 6 months ago - less than 10,000 miles ago

plugs and wires should have been checked 3 months ago - less than 2,000 miles

all this done by a dealership that is now closed so Im not sure if I can track down the real answers for you there.

I can get ahold of a Chilton repair manual untill I am able to get ahold of the manual you suggest, will pick it up from a friend asap if that will help.


sooooo..... till I get some kinda manual what does this mean?

 

Chiltons is worthless.

 

It may help you find the drain plug to change the oil, but it won't help with explaining how a system works or with tracking a problem. It MIGHT help make your kid sit higher at the dinner table. Let whom ever has it, deliver it, because it isn't worth the gasoline to go pick it up.

RACE ON!!!

 

My error! Too much time spent in the IT world

 

I'm not convinced that is really an error. The cover of MY FSM says, "Shop Manual". It is the factory authorized, and supplied, service manual for making repairs "in the field".

RACE ON!!!

 

and mine says "service manual" BUT, I'd go ahead and borrow your friends Chiltons-until you get your service manuals, ain't costing you anything-I don't have a Chiltons, but the first book I got was the Haynes-it's not year specific-which is one of it's major problems, and
it doesn't have the trouble shooting flow charts the FSM has-you really need thoughs, but it won't hurt to look at the Chiltons to get a familiarization-just don't rely on it, hope you've ordered your year specific FSMs.

 

My advice is to find a good local honest Corvette mechanic. It may take a few trips to become friendly with him. I found Trevor at Exotic Muscle. After that, you can attempt repairs on your own, and if you run into a problem, they are usually more than welcome to help you out at a very reduced or free price. You must get to know other Corvette owners and listen to their advice.

 

My 86 use to throw that code all the time ,the EGR never worked right .
I just threw in a 434 ci carbed motor and no more problems.

 

"honey, that dang CE light is on again! i think we need a new & bigger motor"
"isn't that going to be expensive?"
"no, not at all...."

lol...nice solution!

 

FSM and a scanner IMO the best investment (these can be bought that will work on all makes and models) or at least a vohm meter.
I guess that's one way of removing codes

 

Its also good to put either if front or behind of your tire when you jack up the car (so it wont roll).

 

With the given age, mileage, and code info from above, I'd at this point guess that your code is being set by one of a couple things in this order:

1) Bad/loose EGR thermal switch or corrosion in the wire at the connector end. This is a cheap and really easy fix. Look at the passenger side of the engine. There is a pipe with what is/was a silver colored heat wrap around it coming up from the exhaust over the valve cover and back into the intake manifold. The EGR thermal switch has a single wire sealed with ceramic where it enters a bung on the EGR pipe. This creamic fractures and allows the screwed in switch component to jiggle around causing an intermittant code 32. At the other end is a single wire connector where corrosion gets between the wire and the connector tang due to heat related wire cover shrinkage. Sometimes a bit of WD-40 will fix this. The switch can be ordered and replaced cheaply if necessary.

2) Cracked or leaking EGR vacuum lines. (also cheap and easy to fix.) There are plastic vacuum lines under the plenum which go to the EGR valve (also under the plenum). After years of heat cycles they get brittle and can leak.

3) Bad or carboned up EGR valve. (~$35 to replace.) The EGR valve is located under the plenum and requires the plenum to be removed (easy). After extensive searching I have found no aftermarket EGR that is a simple swap in. They all will work, but usually require a slight modification of the vacuum line to the EGR or shims at the base of the EGR. Order a GM replacement and it will pop on with no fuss, no shims, no vacuum line mods. It costs about $10 more than the aftermarket units and saves you time and hassle.

For the other problem(s) I agree that the very first tool you need is the FSM. Eventually getting a good scan tool will help a lot. Welcome to Corvette Forum and the land of DIY.

 

If not thousands.