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A little late but did you try to apply a test light to the FP fuse the same time you turned the key, should light up if relay is good? BTW guys, nice education on the check valve, toilet, and whatever. If ever in doubt I'll check back to this thread just to refreshen.
no it did not light up. The problem was it would not start. Id crank it over and it wouldnt start. I thought i smelled gas so i pulled out a spark plug and it was dry. So i did what i thought was just jumping the fuel pump right from the fuse box, and it started up. That i decided was my relay. I recently put in a new cold start valve, so that should work, but to make sure i tested it and it works well. Now the fuel pressure was low, vaccum was good. I adjust the FPR and nothing happens to the pressure, this could be happening because the FPR has no pressure to work with. We'll see. What would it mean if i clamped off the fuel return line and the pressure came back up?
no it did not light up. The problem was it would not start. Id crank it over and it wouldnt start. I thought i smelled gas so i pulled out a spark plug and it was dry. So i did what i thought was just jumping the fuel pump right from the fuse box, and it started up. That i decided was my relay. I recently put in a new cold start valve, so that should work, but to make sure i tested it and it works well. Now the fuel pressure was low, vaccum was good. I adjust the FPR and nothing happens to the pressure, this could be happening because the FPR has no pressure to work with. We'll see. What would it mean if i clamped off the fuel return line and the pressure came back up?
When I was testing my pump, when I clamped off the return line my pressure shot up to about 70psi quickly.
Bad pressure regulator. I still think you may have a blown fusible link.And for my friend-and I'm sincere, the purpose of the check valve on my boat tank was to prevent fuel from siphoning into the bilge area
if a fuel line were to fail.
Last edited by rick lambert; Apr 15, 2006 at 12:05 PM.
What would it mean if i clamped off the fuel return line and the pressure came back up?
It would mean that the fuel pump was capable of making more pressure than you have seen from it so far, and it would prove the regulator is regulating (leaking) at a lower pressure than intended.
And for my friend-and I'm sincere, the purpose of the check valve on my boat tank was to prevent fuel from siphoning into the bilge area
if a fuel line were to fail.
There has to be more to this boat fuel system than you are explaining. A check valve is simply a back flow preventer. If the valve is installed to prevent fuel from flowing from the tank to the engine, what does the engine run on???
Back to: "Funny about fuel pumps, I know on another post CFI-EFI stated that the only time a check valve leaks is when the engine isn't running. Never had one apart-I just wonder about that". Just like the faucet valve in your kitchen sink, even if it drips when turned off, it doesn't leak when you have the water turned on.
There has to be more to this boat fuel system than you are explaining. A check valve is simply a back flow preventer. If the valve is installed to prevent fuel from flowing from the tank to the engine, what does the engine run on???
Back to: "Funny about fuel pumps, I know on another post CFI-EFI stated that the only time a check valve leaks is when the engine isn't running. Never had one apart-I just wonder about that". Just like the faucet valve in your kitchen sink, even if it drips when turned off, it doesn't leak when you have the water turned on.
RACE ON!!!
with CFI. The check valve on the corvette fuel system should be and is a one way valve when working properly to let fuel flow one way when pumping and close when fuel has stopped flowing. In other words it keeps fuel from backing up when pump is shut off. I would say both you guys are correct in your own way.
First-sounds like we agree about the regulator? Back to the boat, this was an older boat with mechanical fuel pumps on the engine-the way I see it the pumps actually by their action allowed the check valve to open allowing the fuel from the tank through the now open check valve
to flow-once again, if the fuel line ruptured-the check valve stopped any chance of fuel siphoning from the tank into the bilge area.
...if the fuel line ruptured-the check valve stopped any chance of fuel siphoning from the tank into the bilge area.
If the check valve were installed, in-line, and the line broke between the valve and the tank, the check valve would prevent the fuel in the carb and the fuel pump from flowing backward into the bilge, but no matter where a break might take place, the check valve will not prevent the fuel from flowing in the direction it was designed to allow. Without intending to be insulting, it seems you have some sort of mental block on this subject. It is what it is, by definition... and by title. Again, just like the flapper door on your dryer vent.
I also think, from your description, your AFPR may be bad being that adjusting it does nothing and it could be leaking. You intend to replace the FP anyway , do to high mileage, and this should eliminate one of the suspected problems. If not, I would check the AFPR. IMO You either have a weak pump or a leak in the system with 28psi. Where abouts on the car did you smell the raw gas? And also did you check the power at the fuel pump harness (I believe it is a tan wire)?
Last edited by RRT vette; Apr 15, 2006 at 02:06 PM.
He may have smelled raw gas at the pressure regulator-he can pull the vac line off that and see if it's wet.Could explain his pressure problem.
Because of his power problem I did make a suggestion regarding the fusible link. 12 volts comes from the power tower behind the battery through a fusible link-at a point this branches off, running to the fp relay and the other branch if you will runs to the oil pressure switch.
This is from my FSM for an 87-not sure if it's identical for an 85.
i just put a new AFPR on it and a new diaphram couple of months ago. I installed my new fuel pump and relay and it runs great now. Tomorrow ill put the pressure gauge on it to fine tune it, but for now, it ran alot better than what it did with the stock pump and relay. And it starts up right away everytime. thanks guys. If anything else comes up while im still working this out, ill let ya know.