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SR guys: Can you install the distributor "straight" or must it be clocked 1 tooth in the advance direction in order permit 6 degrees of base timing?
Just dropped it in and have tried both ways, checking visually.
Currently, I have it clocked 1 tooth advanced, this seems to permit a fair amount of adjustment in both directions. With it in straight, the connector block is gonna be very close to the driver's side rear of the plenum, which will limit the adjustment range in the retard direction.
Of couse it looks better in straight.
Any thoughts from others that have done it?
Last edited by tequilaboy; Apr 14, 2006 at 11:33 AM.
SR guys: Can you install the distributor "straight" or must it be clocked 1 tooth in the advance direction in order permit 6 degrees of base timing?
Just dropped it in and have tried both ways, checking visually.
Currently, I have it clocked 1 tooth advanced, this seems to permit a fair amount of adjustment in both directions. With it in straight, the connector block is gonna be very close to the driver's side rear of the plenum, which will limit the adjustment range in the retard direction.
Of couse it looks better in straight.
Any thoughts from others that have done it?
The easiest way to make it work is adanced the motor 6 degrees, put the connector where you want it, and drop the distributor in so that it points right at #1. The distributor will 99.9% of the time not drop down on the oil pump drive. Hold the distributor down an rotate the engine until it drops on the pump drive.
if ''things'' get in the way so that one tooth ahead or back still won't miss everything (or my problem-just looks crooked)... the drive gear on the bottom of the distributor has an ''odd'' number of teeth--if you drive out the roll (spring) pin you can rotate the drive gear 180* to change the upper position "half a tooth"
if ''things'' get in the way so that one tooth ahead or back still won't miss everything (or my problem-just looks crooked)... the drive gear on the bottom of the distributor has an ''odd'' number of teeth--if you drive out the roll (spring) pin you can rotate the drive gear 180* to change the upper position "half a tooth"
THought I knew most of the SBC tricks.
That's a new one I hadn't thought about. GOOD TIP. THANKS!!
playing with blowers, tunnel rams,etc, sometimes the vacuum advance, manifold, firewall, or other immovable objects require the distributor position to need ''just a little more swing''...or if you just like the hei wires sticking straight out like i do....because the distributor drive gear has an odd number of teeth, rotating it will move everything above that ''little bit''....
my current project is reducing the height of my hei by 1'', can you figure out why ?
if ''things'' get in the way so that one tooth ahead or back still won't miss everything (or my problem-just looks crooked)... the drive gear on the bottom of the distributor has an ''odd'' number of teeth--if you drive out the roll (spring) pin you can rotate the drive gear 180* to change the upper position "half a tooth"
Yep, (13 teeth) I found that the dot on the gear was in line with the rotor pointer, by 180'ing almost centered.
Thanks for the tips guys. I still haven't timed the car. Hopefully it will happen today. The car is buttoned up already.
I have it in "straight" now for aesthetic reasons. I have a couple of options if I end up with too much advance if and when the distributor hits the plenum.
I can re-clock, as already discussed. I could rotate the gear1/2 tooth, now the dot is aligned with the rotor or I can simply burn a new chip with revised base timing for what ever the final timing is. This will be the easiest way for me and will take less than 5 minutes. So nice to have full control over tuning.
I will post back with my report once its complete.